Tourtière

Tourtière
Gentl and Hyers for The New York Times. Food stylist: Maggie Ruggiero. Prop stylist: Jerrie-Joy.
Total Time
6 hours (can be made serially)
Rating
4(989)
Notes
Read community notes

This savory French-Canadian meat pie combines ground pork and warm spices with chunks of braised pork shoulder and shreds of chicken or turkey. But you could make it with leftover brisket, with venison, with smoked goose or ham. Traditionally it is served with relish or tart, fruity ketchup — I like this recipe for cranberry ketchup best, though I use a splash of fresh orange juice instead of the concentrate it calls for. “I’ve never had a slice of tourtière and spoonful of ketchup and not liked it,” David McMillan, the bearish chef and an owner of Joe Beef in the Little Burgundy section of Montreal, told me. “I especially love a tourtière made by someone who can’t really cook.” 

Featured in: A French-Canadian Christmas Carol

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Ingredients

Yield:6 to 8 servings

    For the Dough

    • cups or 300 grams all-purpose flour
    • ½teaspoon kosher salt
    • 16tablespoons unsalted butter, cold and cut into cubes
    • 4tablespoons leaf lard, cold and cut into cubes
    • 3-4 tablespoons ice water, as needed

    For the Pie

    • 1½-2 pounds pork-shoulder meat, cut into 1½-inch chunks
    • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
    • 2tablespoons neutral oil, like canola
    • 5allspice berries
    • 2cinnamon sticks
    • 112-ounce bottle stout or other dark beer
    • 4large chicken thighs, or 1 large turkey thigh
    • 2tablespoons unsalted butter
    • 2medium-size yellow onions, peeled and diced
    • 4cloves garlic, peeled and minced
    • 2tablespoons parsley, roughly chopped
    • 10 to 12ounces cremini mushrooms or a mixture of wild mushrooms, sliced
    • ½cup dry white wine or stock
    • 1pound ground pork
    • ½teaspoon ground white pepper
    • teaspoon ground cinnamon
    • teaspoon ground clove
    • Pinch of ground nutmeg
    • Pinch of cayenne pepper or to taste
    • 2medium-size potatoes, like Yukon Gold, grated
    • 1large egg yolk, beaten with a tablespoon of water
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (8 servings)

971 calories; 73 grams fat; 31 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 29 grams monounsaturated fat; 8 grams polyunsaturated fat; 19 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams dietary fiber; 3 grams sugars; 54 grams protein; 1186 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Make the dough. In a food processor, pulse together the flour and salt. Add butter and lard in stages, pulsing until the mixture forms bean-size pieces. Slowly add ice water, 1 tablespoon at a time, and pulse until the dough just comes together. It should be moist but not wet.

  2. Step 2

    Turn dough out onto a lightly floured surface, and gather into two balls. Flatten each into a disk with the heel of your hand. Cover tightly with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour and up to 2 days.

  3. Step 3

    Make the pork shoulder. Season the pieces of pork aggressively with salt and pepper. Put 1 tablespoon of the oil into a large, deep skillet or Dutch oven, and set it over medium-high heat. When the oil shimmers, sear the meat on all sides until browned, turning as necessary, 10 minutes.

  4. Step 4

    Add the allspice berries and cinnamon sticks, and stir to toast them, then add the beer. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat, cover the pan and simmer steadily until the pork is very tender, 45 minutes to an hour. (When the pork is done, you can allow it to cool in its liquid and refrigerate it for one or two days before using.)

  5. Step 5

    Make the chicken or turkey. Heat oven to 325. Season the chicken or turkey thighs aggressively with salt and pepper, then roast in a cast-iron pan or shallow baking tray until their skin is crisp and they have cooked through, approximately 1 hour. (The chicken or turkey, too, may be made ahead and stored in the refrigerator before using.)

  6. Step 6

    Make the pie filling. Melt the butter in a large, heavy-bottomed Dutch oven set over medium heat, and when it foams, add the onions, garlic and parsley. Cook, stirring often, until soft, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the mushrooms, and cook, stirring often, until they are soft and have given up their liquid, 5 to 7 minutes. Add wine or stock, and stir to deglaze the pan, then cook until the liquid has evaporated, 5 minutes.

  7. Step 7

    Add the ground pork and the spices, and cook until the pork has lost its pinkness, 5 to 7 minutes. Add grated potato, and cook another 5 to 7 minutes. Remove from heat.

  8. Step 8

    Shred the cooked chicken or turkey into the pot along with the cooked pork and about ½ cup of its braising liquid, stir lightly to combine and season to taste with salt and pepper. Chill in the refrigerator for at least an hour and up to a day.

  9. Step 9

    Assemble the pie. Place a large baking sheet on the middle rack of oven, and heat to 400.

  10. Step 10

    Remove one disk of dough from the refrigerator, and using a pin, roll it out on a lightly floured surface until it is roughly 10 to 11 inches in diameter. Fit this crust into a 9-inch deep-dish pie plate or cast-iron pan, trimming it to leave an overhang. Place this plate, with the dough, in the freezer.

  11. Step 11

    Roll out the remaining dough on a lightly floured surface until it is roughly 10 to 11 inches in diameter.

  12. Step 12

    Remove pie crust from freezer, and put the chilled filling into it. Cover with remaining dough. Press the edges together, trim excess, then crimp the edges. Using a sharp knife, cut three or four steam vents in the top of the crust. Paint the pie’s top with the egg wash.

  13. Step 13

    Place pie in oven on hot baking sheet, and cook for 20 minutes, then reduce temperature to 350, and cook until the crust is golden brown and the filling is bubbling, about 30 to 40 minutes more. Let cool 20 minutes before serving.

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This is for a gourmet tourtière, and I don't know many people who go through the trouble of such a complex recipe. I just made tourtières yesterday but the much more common way. i.e. half ground beef and half lean ground pork, cubed potatoes (sweet or regular), onion, a little water, the same spices plus some herbs such as marjoram, thyme and sage. It takes no time at all to prepare and cook the meat mixture prior to making the tourtières and this is more authentic of the cuisine quebecoise.

As a member of a large French Canadian and Metis family, I must object. Tourtiere, as several other commenters point out, is a very simple affair. Two pounds of ground pork (or a mixture of pork and beef), one mashed potato, one diced onion, all seasoned with salt, pepper, and a bit of each of nutmeg, cloves and cinnamon, is all that is required to fill two pie crusts (do it galette style for an even more rustic presentation). The rest is just busywork, yielding questionable results.

I have been making my French Cannadian grandmother's recipe for over fifty years and it is simple. Sautéed onions, garlic, ground pork, salt, pepper, mace, nutmeg and a pinch of cayenne. I give it a generous splash of cognac and add the mashed potatoes. Put it in a pie shell and top it with a decorated top crust.

The spices are spot on! The rest... um, in Maine and Northern New Hampshire, where our church's still offer Mass in French, and after wards often sell Tourtiere to support the Altar society and other groups; no one would grate the taters ( always mashed ) and simple well seasoned meat loaf (chicken thighs? really?)encased in a good butter or lard (or combo) crust. But everyone's Memere has a different take...

Every woman in our family has her own recipe for Tourtiere. Thanks for giving some ink to this worthy, traditional dish! And, as noted by the other French-Canadians writing notes here, it can be a whole lot easier than this recipe. One family recipe calls for equal amounts of ground beef, pork and veal, cooked in a pot with onion and garlic. Mashed potatoes added later, and then...the spices. Most important: the ground cloves. This dish does not work without ground cloves. Enjoy!

I've made a very similar recipe to yours my entire life, passed down from the French-Canadian side of my family, and I like them, But I disagree with this recipe being just "busywork, yielding questionable results." It's better than the ones I grew up with, no question. The spices are more pronounced without being overwhelming, the texture is better, it's all around a better recipe.

Every year between Christmas and New Year's, my parents make my French Canadian grandmother's version, which we just call "pork pie." My father starts with twenty-five pounds of ground pork, nothing else added but salt and pepper, and my mother makes the crusts. The (twenty or so) pies are served on New Year's day, with an extra freezer-wrapped pie for everyone to take home. Putting that frozen pie into the oven on a dark winter's evening is a blissful moment.

After consulting MANY recipes, both the NYT and others, I now make a delicious tourtiere using my favorite meatloaf recipe: the meat is a pork-beef-veal mixture, to which I have added the traditional spices (allspice, nutmeg, cinnamon), some rosemary, some prunes; all baked in my favorite pie crust. Delicious, many compliments, and much easier than the NYT recipe, which is unnecessarily complicated.

I'm sure this is wonderfully delicious, but for my money, the tourtière from Costco is stupendous (a huge one that lasts the two of us not very big eaters something like 8 meals is only $14.99 CANADIAN!!!). It is delicious, great crust, yummy three-meat filling. How can you go wrong? And all you need to do is bring it home from Costco and bake it. Sorry, Sam Sifton and all the French-Canadian/Québécois purists out there, but I'll just be lazy and go Plaisirs Gastronomiques Costco!!

After Midnight Mass Christmas Eve, we always had tourtiere, made simply with ground pork/beef combined, potatoes, and a homemade crust. The zing is using allspice--really is good. Served with homemade cranberry sauce, followed by Grandma's fruitcake--laced in bourbon for three months before serving! And then to bed to wait for Santa's arrival!

I made my very first tourtiere recently using this recipe and amending it to make it simpler via some of the remarks in this column. Using half ground beef and ground pork, some turkey chunks, grated potatoes, carrots, dark beer and the spices and herbs. It was outstanding! We loved it and will make it again. Maybe at Christmas.

unfortunately, not all Costco's carry things that are regional from one area to another. :( Makes me sad as this is one of my favorite dishes, and it would be oh so much easier to buy it from Costco.

This was hugely labor-intensive and, frankly, not worth the effort. Although we did truly enjoy the spice combo. There are easier ways to do this, many of which are described in these comments. That being said, however you cook it, be sure to make the Cranberry Ketchup!

Happy to see a Canadian tradition highlighted in the NYT - I have seen the quote "there as many tourtiere recipes as there are kitchens in Quebec". This is a luscious version, which includes a call back to the passenger pigeon originally used in this pie (with poultry in the Gaspe coast version of the dish). Making the simpler version for my children, whose French-Canadian heritage needs to be recalled here in the US! Will try this one in the future. Joyeux Noel!

Tourtiere was a staple in our house growing up in Montreal. My father would make it for the family to add to our celebrations after midnight mass. His recipe was from a well known Quebec cook, Madame Jeanne Benoit. It was nothing like this recipe which looks pretty good. Traditions change as do ingredients. That’s a good thing . I will order my tourtierre from Les Fougeres in Gatineau Quebec as I am blessed to live in Ottawa across the river ! Joyeux Noel a tous !

I'm sure this good but I regard tourtiere as a way to use leftovers. Leftover turkey and whatever veg (no spuds) are left get sautéed with onion and some ground pork. If there's leftover gravy it goes in as well along with the traditional spices then baked in a flaky pie crust for about an hour. Serve it with cornichons and assorted condiments (hot mustard). Some of the greatest dishes in the world were born out of necessity; nothing gets wasted. This is a great way to deal with lefties.

Nice, XMas eve special meal (meat pie?! Ooo, Yes, please!) I made my usual flakey pie crust but perhaps a hot water pie crust would be more practical. Added oyster mushrooms and mire poir - carrots, celery, shallots, and fresh thyme. Leftovers are even better, of course!

My 5th year making it exactly as stated and it is glorious. Yes it’s lots of work but it’s a plan ahead thing. I found real good lard this year too so I’m anxious to taste it later today

There are as many versions of tourtiere as there are cassoulet, folks. This more closely resembles the Lac St Jean style, except that seems to be cooked with raw cubed meats and potato ( and cooks 6-8 hours in the oven!) In keeping with the tradition of using the meats one can get hold of, I am using this as a base, but also including shredded duck confit and rabbit meat that I mar8nated in vermouth and brandy. Cloves essential in my mind.

I do find that a home made crust is worth the effort. Is mine the only Quebecois family that ate this with maple syrup? As for all the quibblers and so-called purists: Le Sigh.

There's a meat pie in my freezer now! We make meat dressing for Thanksgiving, then use the extras for a pie. My dad's recipe calls for boiling cubed potatoes, celery, stale rye bread, green pepper. Drain extra water, but save it (I don't know why; I've never used it). Add half ground beef, half pork sausage, and mash together. Add bay leaf, savory, salt, pepper, poultry seasoning, sage. Cook until meat is no longer pink. Cool, drain extra liquid. Put in crust. Bake. Serve with mustard pickles.

I agree with those who say that this is a far fancier version of what I grew up eating, and continue to make a couple times of years, generally around the holidays. The meat base is pretty much the same as what we call Cretons, except it has mashed potatoes added (proportion by eye and taste, added after the meat has rendered most all its liquid.) Our family only used ground pork, no beef, and certainly no chicken, white wine, beer, etc. It's meant to be a simple hearty dish. (And ketchup???)

I learned to make my mother in law's pie, decendent from my husband's Acadian family who came down to work in the textile mills of New Bedford, Mass. many decades ago. It is delicious and I make a few every Christmas. It is far from the grand production this recipe is but I would put its greatness right next to your recipe. My filling is half ground pork, half ground sirloin, cooked with only a 1/4 cup of grated onion and richly spiced with only allspice. No potatoes!!!

We made this for Christmas dinner and it was so good we made it again the following Christmas, both times with the cranberry ketchup! This is now a holiday tradition in our American household. Obviously it is a more elaborate tourtière than people usually make, but that's what makes is great for a special occasion. We love this recipe.

This is closer to a cipate not a tourtiere. A tourtiers is ground pork, hamburger and mash.

I have made this tourtiere three or four times pretty much like this recipe but without mushrooms. It is fabulous and I don't consider it too much work for a one time a year dinner. The flavor is superb and leftovers terrific. I make a gluten free crust for the top. If you're used to a simpler version fine, but for the rest of us this one is great.

I agree with all the French Canadians who said this recipe is way to complex and not needed. I’ve been making this wonderful traditional tourtière for decades using pork & beef or venison at 50/50 ratios. Never chicken. Served with maple sirop for breakfast or ketchup for supper.

I've made this several times but this year it was the best one yet. It is not traditional but a fancy tourtière. I can't express just how good or why it is worth all the trouble except to say the first bite will convince you. I used pork shoulder and turkey thighs along with all the other ingredients in the recipe. I think its the spices with the beer that make this so incredible. PLUS the cranberry ketchup.

I’ve made this before and loved it, and am making it again today. I know traditional Toutieré love that too. The mix of spices and dark beer make it. Actually the pork shoulder is my favorite part. Don’t forget the cranberry ketchup

Like my fellow french canadians--this is the most efforty tourtière imaginable. Streamline it: skip the pork shoulder and roasting chicken/turkey: start at step 6: use half ground pork half lean veal, and include cubed chicken meat (a breast or a couple of thighs that you will brown in the same pan). My family keeps the mushrooms and wine but skips the potato (we serve those alongside) and use lots of thyme or summer savoury. Spices for us are minimal--a little clove and cinnamon, S&P.

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