Moroccan Herb Jam

Moroccan Herb Jam
Karsten Moran for The New York Times
Total Time
1 hour
Rating
4(68)
Notes
Read community notes

Paula Wolfert's first and still-influential book, "Couscous and Other Good Food From Morocco," published in 1973, influenced a generation of cooks yearning to expand its horizons. This fascinating recipe for a mixture of long-cooked greens, which she learned while living in Morocco, appeared in her 2003 book, "The Slow Mediterranean Kitchen: Recipes for the Passionate Cook". The acclaimed chef Russell Moore of Camino restaurant in Oakland, Calif., a  great fan of Ms. Wolfert and this recipe, has now adapted it and incorporated herb jam into his menu on a daily basis. Among its virtues: It tastes wonderful and lasts for a week or more in the refrigerator; it is great when spread on toasted bread or stirred into a soup; and it uses greens, like the outer leaves of lettuce, that would otherwise be wasted. —David Tanis

Featured in: Herb Jam With a Mediterranean Pedigree

Learn: How to Make Jam

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Ingredients

Yield:About 4 cups
  • 1½ pounds various greens and herbs (like chard, kale, broccoli rabe, dill, marjoram, parsley, cilantro, celery tops and scallions, and outer leaves of lettuce or similar greens)
  • 6large cloves garlic, unpeeled
  • Extra-virgin olive oil
  • 2small hot red chiles (dried) or a pinch of crushed red pepper
  • Salt
  • 1½ tablespoons cumin seeds, toasted in a dry pan until fragrant, then ground
  • ¼cup roughly chopped pitted black olives, such as Kalamata, or oil-cured
  • Pinch of pimentón (Spanish smoked paprika)
  • Lemon, for final seasoning
  • Pita or flatbread, for serving
Ingredient Substitution Guide

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Put the greens and herbs and garlic cloves all together in a large steamer set over medium-high heat, and steam until tender, 15 to 20 minutes. (If you don’t have a steamer, use a large, deep skillet with a lid. Put 2 inches of water in bottom of pan, add greens, cover and cook at a brisk simmer.)

  2. Step 2

    Set the garlic aside. Drain greens, let cool and squeeze out moisture; pick out the tougher herb stems if necessary. Put greens and herbs on a cutting board and chop very finely with a large knife.

  3. Step 3

    Put 4 tablespoons olive oil in a wide skillet over medium-high heat. Add the chiles and let them sizzle without browning (or use a pinch of crushed red pepper), then add the chopped greens, a pinch of salt and half the cumin seeds. The flavor is concentrated by cooking most of the moisture out of the greens; this will take about 10 to 15 minutes. (Stir the herb jam mixture often as the water evaporates; it will want to stick.)

  4. Step 4

    Turn the heat off but leave the mixture in the pan. Peel the steamed garlic and mash it into the pan along with the olives. Mix everything and taste; add salt as needed, a good splash of olive oil, the pimentón and more cumin to taste. The herb jam should be highly seasoned. Add more chile if it isn’t spicy enough. Just before serving, add a squeeze of lemon. Spread on toasted pita or flatbread if desired. The herb jam can be stored in the refrigerator, tightly covered, for about 5 days.

Ratings

4 out of 5
68 user ratings
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Cooking Notes

Pedantry really serves no purpose.

But perhaps you do not know who Paula Wolfert is. She has earned a position of respect, equivalent to that of Elizabeth David, Richard Olney, or Julia Child.

The contemporary food world is replete with creative or playful application of traditional terms to different ingredients (cilantro pesto) or techniques (confit tomatoes) to extend the aim of enhancing flavor or texture.

I made it with a bag of mixed chopped greens from Trader J's, a generous bunch of curly parsley, about 9 green onions, ...pitted kalamata olives. I used about half the recommended cumin, and maybe a 1/4 teaspoon of crushed red pepper.
I love it. It's like spanakopita and dolmades, to me. Almost a cooked pesto. "Herb Jam" works for me. Next I will make it with fresh mint and dill, + parsley and green onions, mixed greens, etc. My batch came out to be about 2 cups.

The introduction explains why it is called "jam."

Jam Shmam - It's called Habbeeza.

"Ms. Wolfert calls this traditional savory spread made of wild-foraged leaves an herb jam. The term refers to the somewhat time-consuming cooking-down process. It is a jam in the sense that stewed onions are sometimes called marmalade."

Mr. Man used a phonetic spelling of what some Moroccans call Khoubiza. It's also called Bakoula. This is per my lovely daughter-in-law who grew up in Fes. It's delicious.

I make this or a variation on it at least weekly (with much less olive oil or else it's just too greasy for me; I know, I know). Especially good for gardeners, because you can use up whatever odds and ends of things are starting to bolt on you. Don't know about canning, but it freezes superbly. If you haven't tried it, please do.

I improvised all over the place and it turned out Wonderful!

Delicious. I used capers instead of olives.

What a life-changing recipe. Made this yesterday with a bag of braising greens, scallion and celery tops and herbs that were about to get frosted in the garden. Making something so nutritious and tasty out of challenging vegetables is a great feeling! Thank you- this may get me through the winter.

This is such a great recipe for using up those leaves of kale and spinach, beet greens, celery leaves, cilantro and parsley in the fridge that need to be used ASAP. Delicious.

Second time making this. The first time it was delicious but I found it hard to spread. Granted, perhaps I couldn't chop the greens finely enough, especially the stringier ones, to create spreadability. This time I used an immersion blender to create more of a pesto-like texture. Same great flavor!

This recipe is so adaptable! I’ve made it as written (cutting back on the spice), but used Herbes de Provence instead of cumin, added fennel fronds to the greens, and . I’m not a Francophile, but I thought the cumin would clash with my other dishes. I look forward to experimenting further!

This is such a great recipe for using up those leaves of kale and spinach, beet greens, celery leaves, cilantro and parsley in the fridge that need to be used ASAP. Delicious.

Delicious. I'm sure Ms. Wolfert wouldn't approve, but it is quite possible to make this with a bag of frozen mixed greens and leftover herbs that have been added to the freezer before they go bad.

Delicious. I used capers instead of olives.

What a life-changing recipe. Made this yesterday with a bag of braising greens, scallion and celery tops and herbs that were about to get frosted in the garden. Making something so nutritious and tasty out of challenging vegetables is a great feeling! Thank you- this may get me through the winter.

Made this two days ago...

It's like everything people like about southern greens, without the meat.
Earthy, a little bitter and then smoky & spicy.
Can't wait to make some with some spent-grain flatbread...

Good Evening: Fantastic condiment, great on chicken, salmon, hamburgers, or as a spread on crostini. Next time, will experiment with a mint-basil-parsley combination.

I improvised all over the place and it turned out Wonderful!

Broccoli rabe, cilantro, green onions, black olives and pita. Fantastic.

I make this or a variation on it at least weekly (with much less olive oil or else it's just too greasy for me; I know, I know). Especially good for gardeners, because you can use up whatever odds and ends of things are starting to bolt on you. Don't know about canning, but it freezes superbly. If you haven't tried it, please do.

This is absolutely delicious! I used beet green, kale, parsley and mint from the garden. Great way to get your greens.

I made it with a bag of mixed chopped greens from Trader J's, a generous bunch of curly parsley, about 9 green onions, ...pitted kalamata olives. I used about half the recommended cumin, and maybe a 1/4 teaspoon of crushed red pepper.
I love it. It's like spanakopita and dolmades, to me. Almost a cooked pesto. "Herb Jam" works for me. Next I will make it with fresh mint and dill, + parsley and green onions, mixed greens, etc. My batch came out to be about 2 cups.

Jam, shmam. I made it tonight and it is over-the-top delicious.

I used chard and cilantro, and green olives I had on hand. Amazing recipe.

Mr. Man used a phonetic spelling of what some Moroccans call Khoubiza. It's also called Bakoula. This is per my lovely daughter-in-law who grew up in Fes. It's delicious.

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Credits

Adapted from "This Is Camino," by Russell Moore and Allison Hopelain (Ten Speed Press, 2015)

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