Melissa Clark’s Thanksgiving

By Melissa Clark|Thanksgiving mornings were chaos when I was a kid, and my dad was always in the middle of it. There’d be butter splattering from the turkey basting, pans of mushrooms hissing. It was always right at the most hectic moment when he’d look up, tears in his eyes (from the onions he was chopping), and declare, “Thanksgiving is the best holiday, because it’s all about the food.” What he was talking about was not just the meal itself, but the messy, convivial process of everyone cooking it together: the garlic mincing, vegetable trimming and pie dough rolling, all punctuated by the chatting, kvetching and endless debate over the paprika in the brussels sprouts and whether the turkey was done. For me, the joy comes in pressing the butter into the flour with my fingers, trying to get the lightest, airiest pie crust, while my husband, Daniel, mashes butter and bourbon into the sweet potatoes, humming to the Bowie he’s put on the morning’s playlist. My daughter, Dahlia, likes to pick the leaves off herbs and nibble on marshmallows when she imagines no one is looking. As friends and family arrive, they end up in the kitchen too, wine glasses and potato peelers pressed into their hands. And just as when I was a kid, there’s the chatting, the kvetching and the endless debate about whether to put candied ginger in the pie or the ice cream — and whether the turkey is finally done. Then there’s strategizing, experimenting, tweaking. Thanksgiving is the most traditional dinner on the calendar, so I like to subvert it just a little, figuring out how to take an unchanging menu and reimagine it every time without losing its comforting essence. I realize it may not be like this for everyone. Cooking Thanksgiving can be stressful. Expectations run high, turkeys burn, pies bubble over. But I believe that if you engineer your day so you can cook with those you love and find happiness doing it, no one will notice if the white meat’s a little dry. (That’s what gravy is for.) My dad passed away last year, a few weeks before Thanksgiving, so we skipped the big feast, sharing bagels and lox instead. It was too soon to do it without him. This year we’re finding our rhythm again, and I’ll host at my place for the first time. I’ll be making the dishes you see here, the food we love. There’ll be far too much of it, but that’s O.K. Thanksgiving, of course, is all about the food. See our extended Thanksgiving coverage for more recipes, instruction, videos and tips for the day, including our menu planner.

Roast Turkey With Garlic and Anchovies

By Melissa Clark

Yield 8 to 10 servings with leftovers

Christopher Testani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Barrett Washburne. Prop Stylist: Courtney de Wet.

In this flavorful recipe, a whole roasted turkey is seasoned like a Provençal leg of lamb, with rosemary, anchovies and plenty of garlic. Cutting tiny slits into the turkey’s legs helps distribute the garlic-anchovy paste, which perfumes the meat. You’ll need to start marinating the turkey at least a day ahead, although, if you have the space in your refrigerator and the time, starting two or three days ahead is even better. Chilling the turkey uncovered helps dry out the skin, yielding a particularly crisp and golden bird.

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Poultry, Roasts, Anchovy, Caper, Chicken Stock, Garlic, Rosemary, Whole Turkey, Wine, Dinner, Main Course, Fall, Winter, Christmas, Thanksgiving

Ingredients

For the turkey:

8 garlic cloves
8 to 12 anchovy fillets, to taste
1 tablespoon fresh rosemary
1 tablespoon drained capers
1 tablespoon ground black pepper
Kosher salt, as needed
1 (10- to 13-pound) turkey, giblets removed
1 small onion, thinly sliced
2 shallots, thinly sliced
½ small fennel bulb, diced
½ lemon, seeded and thinly sliced
1 cup dry white wine
1 to 2 quarts turkey or chicken stock, as needed
Extra-virgin olive oil, as needed

For the gravy:

½ cup dry white wine
5 tablespoons unsalted butter, cubed
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 cup turkey or chicken stock, more as needed
1 tablespoon tarragon leaves (optional)
Kosher salt, to taste

Ingredient Substitution Guide

Preparation

In a blender, small food processor or large mortar and pestle, combine garlic, anchovies, rosemary, capers and pepper and 1/2 teaspoon salt per pound of turkey (i.e. 5 teaspoons salt for a 10-pound turkey). Process or pound to a paste.
Place a wire rack on top of a rimmed baking sheet. Cut tiny slits all over turkey legs. Rub two-thirds of the paste all over the turkey, under its skin and in the cavity, then stuff remaining paste into holes in the legs. Transfer to the rack on the baking sheet and refrigerate uncovered overnight or for up to 3 days.
Remove turkey from the refrigerator 1 hour before roasting.
Heat oven to 450 degrees. Scatter onion, shallots, fennel and lemon in a roasting pan fitted with a rack. Pour in wine and 1 cup water, then add enough turkey or chicken stock so there is 1/4 inch of liquid in the pan. Place turkey on the roasting rack and brush with oil. Roast for 30 minutes, then cover breast with foil.
Reduce oven to 350 degrees and continue to roast until an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh reads 165 degrees, 1 1/2 to 2 hours longer. If the bottom of the pan dries out entirely, add a little more stock to keep it from burning. Remove from oven and let rest 10 minutes on the roasting rack. Transfer to cutting board and rest another 10 to 15 minutes before carving and serving.
While the turkey rests, make the gravy: Remove the roasting rack and use a slotted spoon to remove lemon slices, onions, shallots and fennel from the pan. Pour in wine and bring to a simmer over medium heat, scraping up the browned bits on the bottom of the pan. Simmer until liquid is nearly evaporated, then whisk in butter and flour. Let it cook, whisking, until flour mixture turns pale gold, about 3 minutes. Whisk in stock and tarragon, if using. Bring to a simmer and heat until thickened, about 3 to 5 minutes, whisking occasionally. If you want a very smooth gravy you can blend in a blender or pass the mixture through a sieve. Or serve as is. Taste and add salt if necessary.

Brioche Chestnut Stuffing

By Melissa Clark

Yield 8 to 10 servings

Christopher Testani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Barrett Washburne. Prop Stylist: Courtney de Wet.

Stuffing with made from eggy brioche and roasted chestnuts is a Thanksgiving classic. This one, seasoned with celery, onion and sage, and a little diced fennel for sweetness and depth, sticks relatively close to tradition. Use it to stuff a turkey, if you like, but it’s even better baked separately in a shallow casserole dish, so the top can get nice and crisp. If you’d like to bake it ahead, you can do so up to 6 hours in advance. Just before serving, reheat it in a 350-degree oven.

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American, Casseroles, Stuffing And Dressing, Brioche, Chestnut, Fennel, Dinner, Side Dish, Fall, Thanksgiving

Ingredients

1 (14- to 16-ounce) brioche loaf, torn into 1-inch pieces
8 tablespoons unsalted butter (1 stick), plus more for the pan
1 large onion, diced
2 large celery ribs, thinly sliced
½ cup diced fennel (about 1/2 small fennel bulb)
1 ½ teaspoons kosher salt, plus more as needed
1 tablespoon fresh thyme, chopped
1 tablespoon fresh sage, chopped
5 ounces roasted, peeled chestnuts, roughly chopped
½ teaspoon ground black pepper
2 ½ cups turkey or chicken stock
2 large eggs
¼ cup chopped parsley

Ingredient Substitution Guide

Preparation

Arrange brioche pieces in a single layer on a rimmed baking sheet. Let them dry out overnight, or place them in a 200-degree oven for an hour or two. (They’ll be ready when they feel stale to the touch but haven't taken on any color.)
Heat oven to 375 degrees, and butter a shallow, 2-quart casserole or gratin dish. On a pot on the stove or in the microwave, melt 4 tablespoons butter. Put bread in the prepared baking dish and toss with melted butter. Bake until golden and toasted, 8 to 10 minutes. Let cool, then transfer toast to a large bowl. (Don’t wash the baking dish; you’ll use it again for the stuffing.)
In a 12-inch skillet, melt remaining 4 tablespoons butter over medium heat. Stir in onion, celery, fennel and 1/2 teaspoon salt; cook until soft and just starting to brown, about 12 minutes. Stir in thyme and sage, and cook for 1 minute. Remove from heat and transfer to bowl with brioche. Gently fold in chestnuts and pepper and let cool.
In a medium bowl, whisk together 1 1/2 cups stock, eggs, parsley and remaining 1 teaspoon salt. Fold gently into bread mixture, then scrape it all back into prepared baking dish. Drizzle on remaining 1 cup stock until the mixture is moist but not squishy; you may not need all the stock.
Cover dish with foil and bake until lightly springy, about 25 minutes. Remove foil and continue to bake until golden brown, another 20 to 30 minutes.

Roasted Duck Fat Potatoes

By Melissa Clark

Yield 8 to 10 servings

Christopher Testani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Barrett Washburne. Prop Stylist: Courtney de Wet.

Duck fat adds incredible richness to roasted potatoes, which are layered here with fresh thyme and whole garlic cloves. If you are making this for Thanksgiving, throw the pan on the rack under the turkey when you first start roasting your bird, then reheat the potatoes at 350 degrees while your turkey rests.

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Vegetables, Duck Fat, Potato, Thyme, Dinner, Side Dish, Fall, Winter, Christmas, Thanksgiving

Ingredients

3 pounds baby or small potatoes, halved if large
¼ cup duck fat, melted
2 ½ teaspoons kosher salt, plus more to taste
½ teaspoon ground black pepper
6 thyme sprigs
1 bay leaf, torn into pieces
6 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled

Ingredient Substitution Guide

Preparation

Heat oven to 450 degrees. On a rimmed baking sheet, toss together the potatoes, duck fat, salt and pepper. Lay thyme sprigs and bay leaves on top.
Roast for 30 minutes, then toss the garlic into the potatoes and reduce oven heat to 350 degrees. Continue to roast until potatoes are fork-tender, another 15 to 25 minutes. Remove thyme and bay leaves and serve, or let cool for up to an hour then reheat, uncovered, at 350 degrees just before serving.

Sweet Potatoes With Bourbon and Brown Sugar

By Melissa Clark

Yield 10 to 12 servings

Christopher Testani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Barrett Washburne. Prop Stylist: Courtney de Wet.

These silky mashed sweet potatoes are spiced with cloves, nutmeg and a little black pepper, brightened with lemon zest, and spiked with bourbon (or orange juice, if you'd prefer). Puréeing them in a food processor yields the smoothest, airiest texture, but for something a little more rustic, you could mash them by hand. Whichever you choose, these reheat well, either in a microwave or in a pot over low heat.

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American, Casseroles, Vegetables, Bourbon, Lemon Zest, Nutmeg, Sweet Potato, Dinner, Side Dish, Fall, Winter, Vegetarian, Christmas, Thanksgiving

Ingredients

3 ½ pounds sweet potatoes, pricked with a fork (10 to 12 sweet potatoes)
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 to 4 tablespoons dark brown sugar, or to taste
1 ½ tablespoons bourbon or orange juice
¾ teaspoon grated lemon zest
¾ teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
¼ teaspoon black pepper
Large pinch of ground cloves

Ingredient Substitution Guide

Preparation

Heat oven to 350 degrees. Wrap potatoes in foil, place on a rimmed baking sheet, and bake until tender, about 1 hour. Let rest until cool enough to handle but still warm, then remove the foil and peel off the skins.
Add sweet potatoes to a food processor, along with butter, brown sugar, bourbon or juice, lemon zest, salt, nutmeg, pepper and cloves. Purée until smooth. (Or, for a chunkier texture, mash them by hand.) Taste and add salt, sugar or both if you like. Serve while still warm or reheat before serving.

Tip

This recipe can be made up to 3 days in advance and stored in the refrigerator. Reheat just before serving, either in the microwave or in a pot on the stove over low heat.

Easy

Cranberry-Pomegranate Relish

By Melissa Clark

Yield About 2 cups

Christopher Testani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Barrett Washburne. Prop Stylist: Courtney de Wet.

This twist on the classic orange-and-walnut-studded cranberry relish has pomegranate and pistachios, which fleck the intense red berries with bits of green. You can make the cranberry mixture a day ahead, but don’t add the nuts and pomegranate seeds until just before serving to preserve the crunch.

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American, Sauces And Gravies, Cranberry, Pistachio, Pomegranate Seed, Easy, Quick, Side Dish, Fall, Winter, Vegetarian, Christmas, Thanksgiving

Ingredients

12 ounces fresh cranberries (3 cups)
⅓ cup honey, or to taste
¾ cup chopped pistachios
¾ cup pomegranate seeds

Ingredient Substitution Guide

Preparation

Place cranberries and honey in a food processor. Pulse until chopped (but not too finely), then taste and stir in more honey if needed. At this point, the relish can be refrigerated for up to 24 hours before serving. If the liquid separates, give it a stir.
Stir pistachios and pomegranate seeds into cranberry mixture and serve.

Broccoli With Fried Shallots and Olives

By Melissa Clark

Yield 8 to 10 servings

Christopher Testani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Barrett Washburne. Prop Stylist: Courtney de Wet.

The fried shallots on top of this dish make it seem a little like a baked green-bean casserole, but with broccoli as the starring vegetable. Olives and thinly sliced garlic give it verve, contrasting nicely with the sweetness of the shallots. You can cook the broccoli and fry the shallots a day ahead. Store the broccoli in the refrigerator, bringing to room temperature before serving; keep the fried shallots in a paper towel-lined container or a jar with an airtight lid. If they wilt, you can crisp them back up by popping them briefly in the oven. Be sure to save the shallot-flavored oil to use for sautéeing the garlic and olives right before serving.

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Vegetables, Broccoli, Olive, Shallot, Dinner, Side Dish, Vegan, Vegetarian, Christmas, Thanksgiving

Ingredients

2 ½ pounds broccoli (about 2 bunches), stems peeled and cut into 1/2-inch pieces, florets cut into bite-size pieces
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
4 shallots, sliced into rings
5 fat garlic cloves, thinly sliced
¼ cup chopped pitted olives, such as Kalamata, Niçoise or Picholine (a combination of black and green is nice)
1 ½ teaspoons kosher salt, or to taste
2 teaspoons sherry vinegar, or to taste (optional)

Ingredient Substitution Guide

Preparation

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add broccoli and cook until just tender, 1 to 3 minutes. Drain well and transfer to a large bowl.
Heat oil in a small pot over medium heat. In batches, so they don’t crowd the pot, fry shallots until light golden, 4 to 6 minutes, using a slotted spoon to transfer them to a paper towel-lined plate once they've cooked. Sprinkle the fried shallots with salt as you go. If the shallots start to brown too quickly, lower the heat.
Keep the oil in the pot, and carefully stir in garlic and olives. Cook until garlic starts to turn golden, about 3 minutes. Pour the hot oil, including garlic and olives, over the broccoli, then sprinkle with salt and taste. If you'd like it to be brighter, toss in the vinegar. Serve broccoli with fried shallots on top.

Arugula Salad With Anchovy Dressing

By Melissa Clark

Yield 12 servings

Christopher Testani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Barrett Washburne. Prop Stylist: Courtney de Wet.

Peppery, crisp arugula stands up nicely to the punch of this garlicky, anchovy-filled dressing. You can adjust the dressing’s pungency by adding more or fewer anchovies. The dressing will keep for a few days in the fridge, but the oil will solidify, so remember to take it out at least an hour before serving, and shake it really well.

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Anchovy, Arugula, Green Salad, Dinner, Quick, Side Dish, Thanksgiving

Ingredients

¼ cup lemon juice (from 1 large lemon), plus more if needed
2 fat garlic cloves, finely grated or minced
¼ teaspoon kosher salt, plus more if needed
2 to 4 anchovies, or more to taste
2 tablespoons chopped parsley
½ cup extra-virgin olive oil
4 quarts arugula (about 1 pound)
Flaky sea salt, to taste
Ground black pepper, to taste

Ingredient Substitution Guide

Preparation

In a blender, combine lemon juice, garlic and kosher salt. Let sit for 2 minutes, then add anchovies and parsley, and blend to combine.
With blender running, drizzle in oil until emulsified. Taste and add more lemon or kosher salt if necessary.
In a large bowl, toss together arugula and just enough of the dressing to coat the leaves (you may not need all of it). Sprinkle with flaky sea salt and pepper and serve immediately.

Spiced Pumpkin Pie

By Melissa Clark

Yield 8 servings

Christopher Testani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Barrett Washburne. Prop Stylist: Courtney de Wet.

Most pumpkin pies rely entirely on ground spices for their heady flavor. In this one, whole spices (star anise, clove, cinnamon and black peppercorns) are infused into cream, which gives it a more interesting, nuanced character, while a hit of ground ginger added at the end makes it particularly intense. You can make the filling and par-bake the crust the day before, but this pie is best assembled and baked on the day you plan to serve it. If you can, use a high-fat, European-style butter for the crust. It really makes a difference.

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American, Ginger, Pumpkin Pie, Pumpkin Puree, Pumpkin Spice, Rum, Dessert, Fall, Nut Free, Christmas, Thanksgiving

Ingredients

For the crust:

1 ¼ cups/160 grams all-purpose flour
¼ teaspoon fine sea salt
10 tablespoons/140 grams unsalted butter, chilled and cubed
2 to 4 tablespoons ice water, as needed

For the filling:

1 cup heavy cream
1 cinnamon stick
2 petals from a star-anise pod (not the whole pod)
1 whole clove
1 tablespoon grated fresh ginger
1 teaspoon cardamom pods
½ teaspoon whole black peppercorns
1 ¾ cups pumpkin or butternut squash purée (homemade or from a 15-ounce can)
¾ cup/165 grams dark brown sugar
2 large eggs
2 large egg yolks
2 tablespoons dark rum
2 teaspoons ground ginger
½ teaspoon kosher salt
¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

Ingredient Substitution Guide

Preparation

Make the crust: In a large bowl, whisk together the flour and salt. Using your fingers, rub in the butter until it is the size of peas. Drizzle in water until the dough comes together when squeezed.
Transfer dough to a lightly floured surface. Working a palm-size chunk at a time, use the heel of your hand to smear the dough across the work surface. Continue until all the dough has been smeared, then gather it all together, flatten into a disk, and wrap in plastic wrap. Chill for at least 1 hour and up to 2 days.
On a lightly floured surface, roll dough into a 12-inch circle. Transfer to a 9-inch pie plate; fold the edges over and crimp. Prick crust all over with a fork and chill for at least 30 minutes.
Heat oven to 425 degrees. Line chilled crust with foil and pie weights, then bake for 15 minutes. Remove foil and bake until pale golden, 5 to 10 minutes longer. Transfer to a rack to cool. Lower oven temperature to 325 degrees.
Make the filling: In a medium pot, combine the cream, cinnamon stick, star anise petals, clove, fresh ginger, cardamom and peppercorns, and bring to a simmer. Remove from heat, cover, and let steep for 1 hour. Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a large bowl.
Whisk in pumpkin, brown sugar, eggs, yolks, rum, ground ginger, salt and nutmeg. Pour into par-baked shell, transfer to a baking sheet, and bake until crust is golden and center is slightly jiggly, 50 to 60 minutes. Cool completely before serving.

Ginger Ice Cream

By Melissa Clark

Yield 1 generous pint

Christopher Testani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Barrett Washburne. Prop Stylist: Courtney de Wet.

Fresh ginger root and candied ginger give this silky, custard-based ice cream an intense spice flavor. Don’t overlook the clove, which adds a deep, woodsy note. You can make this ice cream up to a week ahead, but after that it will start to develop ice crystals.

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American, Ice Creams And Sorbets, Candied Ginger, Cream, Ginger, Milk, Dessert, Fall, Summer, Thanksgiving

Ingredients

2 cups heavy cream
1 cup whole milk
⅔ cup granulated sugar
3 tablespoons grated fresh ginger
1 cinnamon stick
1 whole clove
⅛ teaspoon fine sea salt
4 large egg yolks
⅓ cup candied ginger, finely chopped, plus more for garnish if you'd like

Ingredient Substitution Guide

Preparation

In a medium pot, combine cream, milk, sugar, ginger, cinnamon, clove and salt. Bring to a simmer over medium heat, then cover, remove from heat, and let steep for 1 hour.
In a medium bowl, whisk the yolks. Whisking constantly, slowly whisk about a third of the cream into the yolks, then whisk yolk mixture back into the pot with the cream. Return pot to medium-low heat and gently cook until mixture is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon (about 170 degrees on an instant-read thermometer).
Strain through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl. Cool mixture to room temperature. Cover and chill at least 4 hours or overnight. Churn in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer's instructions, adding the candied ginger during the last few seconds of churning. Serve directly from the machine for soft serve, or store in freezer until needed. Serve topped with extra candied ginger if desired.