Bengali-Style Mustard Oil Fish

Updated Oct. 11, 2023

Bengali-Style Mustard Oil Fish
Christopher Testani for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews.
Total Time
1 hour
Prep Time
5 minutes
Cook Time
25 minutes, plus 30 minutes’ marinating
Rating
4(105)
Notes
Read community notes

Mustard oil is a key ingredient in many South Asian dishes, but is especially important in Bengali cuisine. Its earthy, astringent flavor can bring complexity to a simple cooked vegetable, pickle or tadka. This weeknight dish is inspired by bhetki paturi, a mustard oil-coated fish that gets cooked in a banana leaf. In this recipe, foil is a stand-in for banana leaf (though feel free to use the leaf if you have one!), steaming the fish gently and infusing it with flavor. Coconut and mustard oil are a stellar combination here, as the sweetness of the coconut tempers the bitterness of the mustard oil and seeds. The juices that pool around the cooked fish are especially delicious; be sure to spoon those over the cooked rice.

Featured in: The Essential (and at Times, Elusive) Power of Mustard Oil

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Ingredients

Yield:4 servings
  • teaspoons black mustard seeds
  • 1fresh hot green chile (such as serrano or Thai bird’s eye), finely chopped
  • 2tablespoons unsweetened grated dried coconut
  • 2tablespoons finely chopped yellow onion
  • ¾teaspoon coarse kosher salt (such as Morton)
  • ¼teaspoon ground turmeric
  • ¼teaspoon red chile powder (such as cayenne or Kashmiri)
  • 3teaspoons mustard oil for cooking (see Tip)
  • pounds cod or haddock, divided into 4 fillets
  • 4pieces aluminum foil, each large enough to make a loose packet around a fish fillet
  • Cooked rice, for serving
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (4 servings)

417 calories; 9 grams fat; 3 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 3 grams monounsaturated fat; 2 grams polyunsaturated fat; 17 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram dietary fiber; 1 gram sugars; 64 grams protein; 536 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    In a large mortar and pestle, coarsely grind the black mustard seeds, then add the fresh chile, coconut and onion, and grind again into a paste. Transfer the paste to a medium bowl and mix in the salt, turmeric, red chile powder and mustard oil until incorporated. (If you don’t have a mortar and pestle, combine the mustard seeds, fresh chile, coconut, onion, salt, turmeric and red chile powder in a mini food processor and pulse until it resembles a paste, then transfer to a medium bowl and stir in the mustard oil until well blended.)

  2. Step 2

    To the bowl, add the fish and toss (with clean hands) to evenly coat with the paste. Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Meanwhile, heat the oven to 450 degrees.

  3. Step 3

    After the fish is done marinating, place each fillet on one half of a piece of foil and fold the other half over the fish. Then fold each side over a few times to create a pouch. You should have four pouches. Place the pouches on a baking sheet, and bake for 10 to 15 minutes, depending on the thickness of your fillets. (Carefully open a corner of one packet; the fish should be just opaque throughout.)

  4. Step 4

    Remove the baking sheet from the oven, divide the pouches among four plates or shallow bowls and serve with rice. Be sure to spoon the juices from the foil over the top of the fish for extra flavor.

Tip
  • Mustard oil is available at most South Asian grocery stores. Many will have the label “for external use only,” which some cooks tend to ignore. Some brands (such as Carrington Farms and Yandilla) are sold specifically for cooking and can be purchased in stores or online.

Ratings

4 out of 5
105 user ratings
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Cooking Notes

To follow up with Alex’s comment about erucic acids toxicity to the heart. There is an approved brand of mustard oil but tastes lighter. Original studies are from the 70s on rats, yet still a massive world population cooks with mustard oil daily. I would be more concerned about lead and arsenic levels in plants and grains or mercury in fish before worrying about using mustard oil to make this recipe.

There are seemingly complex issues related to healthful or harmful effects of using mustard oil in cooking. I have not had time to evaluate in sufficient depth, so I've stayed away from it. For instance the FDA has an import alert covering its use as a vegetable oil (https://www.accessdata.fda.gov/cms_ia/importalert_89.html). Would be good for the NYT to reference some material on this issue if posting a recipe in which the oil figures as a prominent ingredient.

Couple of tips about this dish which we frequently make in a bengali home. Soak the mustard seeds for a couple of hours Avoid a food processor, over grinding will make the mustard bitter We dont use onion Wrap in banana leaf if possible and not in foil You can steam the fish instead of baking Lastly, i have grown up eating food cooked in mustard oil

This is actually inaccurate. Cooking with aluminum foil is safe. Please be careful about spreading misinformation.

I was curious about the mustard oil "debate" as I really wanted to try this recipe. I found this write up by Nik Sharma of SeriouscEats helpful https://www.seriouseats.com/mustard-oil-guide. He suggests one of the same brand s that the NYT does in the Tip section at the bottom of the recipe. Problem solved if you wanna shell out for one of the safer options. Can't wait to try!

Tasty! I used hake, which is firmer and tastier than cod (and was on sale!). Made as directed, except that after 15 minutes in foil the fish seemed underdone - so I broiled the fillets for 5 minutes to brown them. Nice. Easy preparation, too. (Mustard oil is readily available at Pakistani and Indian groceries in Brooklyn, and probably at Patel, though I haven't looked at the latter. But readily available and inexpensive.)

The taste enhancement that mustard oil brings to a recipe calling for it, far outweighs serious health impediments caused by erucic acid. It will be consumed in very limited quantities and as a cook who uses mustard oil my recommendation for those, who have some reservations, is drizzling a little on top of the cooked item instead of cooking in it. One other point to make is, mustard seeds when ground can be bitter so it is best to add salt and green chile together with the seeds.

Cooking with aluminum foil is toxic- use banana leaves or baking paper please!

Wow! I am really into spicy food and I enjoyed this, but too spicy to serve to the unsuspecting. As it turned out here, it couldn't be called "mild". On the other hand, I was thinking that I would take care to more precise next time I make it (and that I should keep quiet until then :-) ). I will try Souradeep's suggestion to steam the fish parcel.

I like this recipe. Thanks to the folks who added about the purity of mustard oil. With the mustard oil, I leave the mustard seeds, and chile powder. If you have a serrano, that's legitimate heat and flavor. Feel like the spicy ingredients are overkill, such that you wouldn't be able to decipher the actual spice. I like to add curry powder, and tumeric as recommended.

It’s a great recipe that yields really uniquely flavored, tasty fish! That said, the flavor is capital-m Mustard, so if you’re not into that, maybe sub mustard oil for another fat. I personally wanted to balance the sharpness of the mustard with more fatty sweetness - maybe I’ll add coconut milk next time?

My husband and I love this dish! He’s Indian, I’m not but we both love spicy. I make it with a neutral oil because I think the mustard seeds are sufficient for that flavor. I cook it in my Le Creuset Dutch oven because it’s easier than wrapping each piece in foil and I like that it contains all the delicious flavors.

Weighing in on the mustard oil debate - it's worth it to know that every mustard oil warning (whether in the U.S. or India) has paved the way for genetically modified oils to enter the market - in the 1950s it was canola in the U.S. and in the 1990s it was foreign soy imports into India. Something to consider if you're looking into the mustard oil research. Also, this is a very typical (and delicious) Bengali fish dish and the mustard oil is essential to it's sharp and delightful flavor :)

Please DONT toss the fish and paste with bare hands. Ingredients in the paste are too harsh for delicate skin and cuticles. Either manage with a spoon, fork and brush or wear gloves.

10 minutes in a °450 oven was too much for us. Rockfish filets would have been good at 7 minutes. Also, I'll amp up the spices next time too. Maybe add some cumin to the mix

Really delicious recipe! Great for mild flavored fish when you’re feeling adventurous. 😋

Wow! I am really into spicy food and I enjoyed this, but too spicy to serve to the unsuspecting. As it turned out here, it couldn't be called "mild". On the other hand, I was thinking that I would take care to more precise next time I make it (and that I should keep quiet until then :-) ). I will try Souradeep's suggestion to steam the fish parcel.

Delicious recipe—-great for mild fish when you’re feeling adventurous!!

Couple of tips about this dish which we frequently make in a bengali home. Soak the mustard seeds for a couple of hours Avoid a food processor, over grinding will make the mustard bitter We dont use onion Wrap in banana leaf if possible and not in foil You can steam the fish instead of baking Lastly, i have grown up eating food cooked in mustard oil

FYI, read the full NYT article as it does mention US and EU warnings re mustard oil.

One other thing to note is this recipe, traditionally is cooked wrapped in banana leaf. I think parchment paper might be a better option to foil.

The taste enhancement that mustard oil brings to a recipe calling for it, far outweighs serious health impediments caused by erucic acid. It will be consumed in very limited quantities and as a cook who uses mustard oil my recommendation for those, who have some reservations, is drizzling a little on top of the cooked item instead of cooking in it. One other point to make is, mustard seeds when ground can be bitter so it is best to add salt and green chile together with the seeds.

Or just use something else “earthy” like avocado oil, for such a small amount, just basically binding the paste together?

Delicious and unique flavor!

Tasty! I used hake, which is firmer and tastier than cod (and was on sale!). Made as directed, except that after 15 minutes in foil the fish seemed underdone - so I broiled the fillets for 5 minutes to brown them. Nice. Easy preparation, too. (Mustard oil is readily available at Pakistani and Indian groceries in Brooklyn, and probably at Patel, though I haven't looked at the latter. But readily available and inexpensive.)

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