Mac Salad

Mac Salad
Chris Simpson for The New York Times. Food stylist: Maggie Ruggiero. Prop stylist: Sophia Pappas.
Total Time
1 hour
Rating
4(626)
Notes
Read community notes

Hawaii’s mac salad is not the summer standard of cookouts on the mainland (what locals call the rest of the United States). The pasta is cooked past al dente, until swoony and soft all the way through. In this version from the chef Mark Noguchi, Gooch to friends, there’s a little punch-up of Tabasco and trace sweetness, like a sidelong glance, from grated carrots and a grace note of sugar. The marquee ingredient, of course, is mayonnaise. ‘‘Just so you know, you’ll be using a lot of mayo,’’ Gooch warns. ‘‘Obscene, guarantee-going-to-make-you-raise-your-eyebrow kine of lot.” Yet somehow what you end up with is richness without weight, leavened by tang and salt. In Hawaii, a scoop would be served with a plate lunch, alongside rice and a main dish, like chicken katsu. —Ligaya Mishan

Featured in: No One Told Me Mac Salad Could Be This Good

  • or to save this recipe.

  • Subscriber benefit: give recipes to anyone
    As a subscriber, you have 10 gift recipes to give each month. Anyone can view them - even nonsubscribers. Learn more.
  • Print Options


Advertisement


Ingredients

Yield:8 to 10 servings
  • 1pound russet potatoes or ½ pound russet potatoes and ½ pound taro (see Tip)
  • Salt
  • 4large eggs
  • 1pound macaroni
  • 1carrot, peeled and grated through the large holes of a box grater
  • 3cups mayonnaise
  • 1teaspoon garlic salt
  • ½teaspoon sugar
  • ½teaspoon black pepper, freshly cracked
  • ½teaspoon apple cider vinegar
  • Hot sauce, such as Tabasco, to taste
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (10 servings)

717 calories; 56 grams fat; 9 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 14 grams monounsaturated fat; 33 grams polyunsaturated fat; 43 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams dietary fiber; 2 grams sugars; 10 grams protein; 438 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

Powered by

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    If using taro, put on kitchen gloves and wash the taro. Bring 1 to 2 inches of water to a boil in a pot with a steamer insert, then put the taro in the insert and cover tightly with a lid. Steam until tender, about 3 hours. Transfer to a plate and let cool. Use a paring knife to remove the skin, then cut into 1-inch cubes.

  2. Step 2

    Fill a large saucepan with water and add a generous pinch of salt, so the water tastes like the ocean. Scrub the potatoes, then add to the saucepan — there should be just enough water to cover — and bring up to a simmer over medium-high heat. (Don’t go for a roiling boil because you want to keep the potatoes intact.) Simmer until a paring knife inserted in the center goes in and out smoothly, 20 to 40 minutes. The potatoes should look barely translucent and have small cracks and a slightly crumbly texture on the surface. Drain carefully and turn out onto a sheet pan. When cool, peel and cut into 1-inch cubes.

  3. Step 3

    Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the eggs and cook for 10 minutes. Drain and immediately transfer to a bowl of ice and water. Replenish the boiling water, if needed, and add the macaroni. Cook until softened all the way through, at least 2 minutes past al dente. Drain well and immediately run under cold water to stop the cooking.

  4. Step 4

    When the noodles are cool, drain well and transfer to a large mixing bowl. Peel the eggs and grate them on the large holes of a box grater. Add them to the bowl, along with the potatoes, taro (if using), carrot, mayonnaise, garlic salt, sugar, black pepper, apple cider vinegar and hot sauce. Mix well with a spoon and adjust the seasonings to taste. Eat immediately or refrigerate for up to 2 days.

Tip
  • The presence of microscopic needle-shaped calcium oxalate crystals in raw taro can make your hands itchy, so it’s a good idea to wear kitchen gloves when handling. Never take a bite of raw taro. Instead of steaming the taro, you can put it in a pressure cooker (at 5 pounds of pressure) for 90 minutes and then let the pressure release naturally.

Ratings

4 out of 5
626 user ratings
Your rating

or to rate this recipe.

Have you cooked this?

or to mark this recipe as cooked.

Private Notes

Leave a Private Note on this recipe and see it here.

Cooking Notes

When I was growing up we used to make a very similar mac salad but added frozen peas. If we wanted it to be really tangy we added pickle relish. Ono.

Why simmer the russet potatoes intact? Would the flavor be worse if you did what any practical person would do and peeled them, cut them into 1-inch chunks, and then simmered until tender? Or does simmering them whole mean that they are less likely to fall apart?

I don't think it's really necessary to cook the noodles "two minutes past al dente." They'll soak up a lot of mayonnaise and soften up over the course of a couple of hours in the fridge (and the salad tastes better if you let it sit in the fridge a while before serving). You may even need to add more mayo before serving if the salad's looking a little dry.

Growing up on Oahu, we kept our potato salad and mac salad separate. Mac salad (my mother's recipe--forgive her, she grew up on the Mainland) included chopped hard-boiled eggs, chopped celery and green onion, tuna, a bit of sweet pickle relish, and the classic Best Foods REAL mayonnaise, but no carrots. I still make it this way 50 years later--and have been known to make a special trip to Costco for the mayonnaise (markets in Japan generally carry only Kewpie). And yes, I use an ice cream scoop.

@Nell, simmering intact reduces the break up of starch molecules on the surface of individual cubes, making the final salad less starchy. It’s a preference thing but is probably part of trying to perfectly replicate the texture the recipe author is going for. (If I’m making crispy potatoes, I want all of that starch, so will definitely boil in chunks before roasting.)

To each their own, but I grew up eating mainland mac salad prepared as you describe. I didn't like it. 20+ years in Hawai'i has me convinced that this mac salad is a different beast, and it does in fact need to be cooked past al dente to achieve the creamy, almost pudding-like texture that pairs so beautifully with kalbi ribs, chicken katsu with Japanese curry gravy or meat jun. I am so hungry now.

Best Foods Mayonnaise in the West is Hellmann’s Mayonnaise in the East. Same product.

Cooking the noodles past al dente, allows the starch granules that have "developed" to absorb the mayonnaise. No, with no meaningful moisture, the noodles/pasta won't absorb the mayonnaise. Which, incidentally, doesn't have much free moisture (as it's an emulsion). To see this, try making a potato salad or pasta salad without cooking the potatoes/pasta, and see if they "soak up the mayo." I agree though, that letting it season for a few hours makes a huge difference!

I never heard of taro and it sounds a bit scary. But I'm wondering about grating the eggs. Why do it that way, it's rather messy. Why not just finely cut them? Otherwise, this sounds like a tasty dish.

We’re experimenting with pasta here. Due to a temporary dental issue, soft food has become necessary. So, after overcooking the pasta to go with fresh pesto, it is wonderful and delicious because the pasta absorbs so much more flavor. So, I think that the direction to overcook the pasta is correct.

Potato tip: At the 13 minute mark, add a bit of salt and perhaps a couple of teaspoons of vinegar to the boiling water. This lowers the pH of the water and slows the breakdown of the natural pectin that holds the potato together. That gives the starch time to gelatinize and stabilize the potato structure. Potatoes fall apart because the pectin "lets go" before the starch has a chance to gelatinize.

This sounds delicious. My mother always did a weird Hawaiian thing with macaroni salad, cubed Spam. To this day, I'm 64 and from the Bronx, I still add it.

Simmering them whole decreases the amount of water they absorb and keeps the potato from falling apart.

When my sister and I shared a house there were 2 jars of Mayo in the fridge - she swears by Dukes, and I will brook no other than Hellman’s. This is a hill I’m willing to die on!

I too grew up on Oahu eating Mac salad and would suggest the following additions. I learned to (1) add seasoned rice wine vinegar to taste to the just cooked macaroni, (2) add some small hole grated onion, and especially (3) add as much as you like canned tuna, preferably not in oil. I make it often for family and pot lucks.

Have to use Best Foods Real Mayo! ❤️

Small entirely white taro is great to never eat. However large taro, from southern China, with the purple threading all the way through, is marvelous and would add visual as well as other interest. Diced first then cooked, it should be done much sooner than the smaller, boring, cousin.

I love Hawaiian macaroni salad (and BBQ). Recently, and unfortunately, I have started a low-sodium diet. Usually mayo is not a big deal, but looking at the ingredients here, a single serving would have 835 mg sodium. And I doubt I could limit myself to just one serving. Man, gotta make this for the next family picnic though, (other) people will demolish it.

I tried it with the hellmans but may do dukes next time for more tartness

Good stuff. I live in Europe where russet potatoes are not available so I did what another reviewer suggested and peeled and cut the potatoes before cooking. Saved time and effort. Like the idea about adding peas (maybe corn as well?). I served with plain grilled meat. It is very rich.

This sounded so different, I was hungry, and I had all the ingredients except the taro, so off to Hawaii I went. It’s so bloody hot here in Houston (over 100) so I skipped steps and just boiled everything (macaroni, cubed potatoes and eggs) together in one pot. Yum, yum! I’ll follow the recipe next time-I’m curious to know if my shortcuts made a difference. Mahalo! This is a keeper!

Looks delish. I always steam waxy potatoes. It takes less time than putting them in water and helps keep the shape. Been doing it for years and it always works well.

I made this for a Hawaiian-themed party. I used malanga from my Latin grocery since I couldn’t find real taro. And I made the mistake of adding garlic powder instead of salt. But it was delicious!

I have made this twice and it is delicious and is now my favorite macaroni salad recipe. I shared this salad with two friends who lived in Hawaii and both of the them really liked it and said that “took them back to when they lived in Hawaii”. Wonderful recipe!

For Hawaiian mac salad I’ve preferred adding 2 cups mayo, and 1/2 cup whole milk instead. After the mac salad has sat in the fridge for a while and needs to be rehydrated just add a splash more milk and stir to bring it back to life.

Americas Test Kitchen’s Hawaiian Mac Salad advocates cooking the macaroni till they are “fat,” meaning A few minutes past al dente. The reasoning is counter-intuitive - it actually increases the noodles’ ability to absorb more of the fats in the sauce. They’re sauce includes whole milk and regular mayonnaise, and warned against using anything fat-free. A cup of sauce is reserved for a second dressing after the first dressing has time to absorb and cure.

I made half a recipe. The proportions seem very strange. Half a pound of potatoes is two small ones, cut in 1” cubes tossed into 1/2lb of Mac, what’s the point? Maybe taro cut smaller. 1/4t vinegar also seems useless. Altogether unremarkable. I’m adding a small can of crushed pineapple to ensure eaters.

My Big Island family’s recipe includes peas, yellow and/or green onions, and crab. So ono!

“Macaroni salad” = made with elbows. “Pasta salad” = made with any other kind of pasta. I’ve never seen Hawaiian macaroni salad made with diced potatoes. I’m a (basically lifelong) CT resident and my standard macaroni salad is, as it turns out, Hawaiian! Elbows cooked past al dente, very finely chopped red onion, celery, and carrot, and chopped hard boiled egg. And a dressing that includes oil, apple cider vinegar, paprika, sugar, celery salt, seasoned pepper - and lots of Hellman’s!

In my experience, the macaroni does not soften no matter how long you let it sit. I think cooking past al dente is key. If the noodles are soft you don't have to add as much mayo.

Private notes are only visible to you.

Credits

Adapted from Mark Noguchi

Advertisement

or to save this recipe.