Japanese Milk Bread

Japanese Milk Bread
Evan Sung for The New York Times
Total Time
1½ hours, plus about 3 hours’ rising and cooling
Rating
5(2,325)
Notes
Read community notes

When panko, Japanese bread crumbs, first appeared here, American cooks leaped to embrace their spiky crunch. (The first article about it in the New York Times appeared in 1998.) But how could breadcrumbs arrive from Japan, a land without bread? The answer is here, in the lofty, feathery white bread that is a staple at bakeries in Asia — and in Asian bakery chains like Fay Da and Paris Baguette. (Panko is often made from the heels of the loaf, called the “ears” in Japanese.) Milk bread was developed in Japan in the 20th century, using tangzhong, a warm flour-and-water paste traditionally used in China to make buns with a soft, springy texture and tiny air bubbles.

Surprisingly, milk bread with an incomparable crumb and buttery taste is a snap to make at home, using supermarket ingredients. Once the tanzhong is cooked and cooled — a matter of 10 minutes at the stove — you have an easy and immensely rewarding dough. It can be shaped into coils or round rolls, like pull-aparts, instead of loaves, or you can paint it with cinnamon sugar or dulce de leche or strawberry jam when you roll it out.

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Ingredients

Yield:1 loaf

    For the Starter

    • cup/45 grams bread flour
    • ½cup/120 milliliters whole milk

    For the Dough

    • cups/325 grams bread flour
    • ¼cup/60 grams sugar
    • 2teaspoons/7 grams active dry yeast (1 packet)
    • 1teaspoon/4 grams salt
    • 1egg
    • ½cup/120 milliliters warm whole milk, plus extra for brushing on the unbaked loaf
    • 4tablespoons/60 grams unsalted butter, cut into pieces and softened at room temperature, plus extra for buttering bowls and pan
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (8 servings)

279 calories; 8 grams fat; 5 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 2 grams monounsaturated fat; 1 gram polyunsaturated fat; 43 grams carbohydrates; 1 gram dietary fiber; 9 grams sugars; 8 grams protein; 217 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Make the starter: In a small heavy pot, whisk flour, milk and ½ cup water (120 milliliters) together until smooth. Bring to a simmer over medium-low heat and cook, stirring often, until thickened but still pourable, about 10 minutes (it will thicken more as it cools). When it’s ready, the spoon will leave tracks on the bottom of the pot. Scrape into a measuring cup and lightly cover the surface with plastic wrap. Set aside to cool to room temperature. (You will have about 1 cup starter; see note below.)

  2. Step 2

    Make the dough: In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook, combine the flour, sugar, yeast and salt and mix for a few seconds, just until evenly combined.

  3. Step 3

    Add egg, milk and ½ cup starter. Turn the mixer on low speed and knead 5 minutes.

  4. Step 4

    Add soft butter and knead another 10 to 12 minutes (it will take a few minutes for butter to be incorporated), until the dough is smooth and springy and just a bit tacky.

  5. Step 5

    Lightly butter the inside of a bowl. Use your hands to lift dough out of mixer bowl, shape into a ball and place in prepared bowl. Cover with a kitchen towel and let rise in a warm place until doubled in size, 40 to 60 minutes.

  6. Step 6

    Punch the dough down and use your hands to scoop it out onto a surface. Using a bench scraper or a large knife, cut dough in half. Lightly form each half into a ball, cover again and let rise 15 minutes.

  7. Step 7

    Heat the oven to 350 degrees. In the meantime, generously butter a 9-by-5-inch loaf pan.

  8. Step 8

    Using a rolling pin, gently roll out one dough ball into a thick oval. (By this time, the dough should be moist and no longer sticky. You probably will not need to flour the surface, but you may want to flour the pin.) First roll away from your body, then pull in, until the oval is about 12 inches long and 6 inches across.

  9. Step 9

    Fold the top 3 inches of the oval down, then fold the bottom 3 inches of the oval up, making a rough square. Starting from the right edge of the square, roll up the dough into a fat log, pick it up and smooth the top with your hands. Place the log in the buttered pan, seam side down and crosswise, nestling it near one end of the pan. Repeat with the other dough ball, placing it near the other end of the pan.

  10. Step 10

    Cover and let rest 30 to 40 minutes more, until the risen dough is peeking over the edge of the pan and the dough logs are meeting in the center. Brush the tops with milk and bake on the bottom shelf of the oven until golden brown and puffed, 35 to 40 minutes.

  11. Step 11

    Let cool in the pan 10 minutes, then remove to a wire rack and let cool at least 1 hour, to let the crust soften and keep the crumb lofty. (If cut too soon, the air bubbles trapped in the bread will deflate.)

Tip
  • The starter recipe produces enough to bake 2 loaves, because it’s difficult to cook a smaller amount. Discard the extra starter, or double the dough recipe and bake 2 loaves.

Ratings

5 out of 5
2,325 user ratings
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Private Notes

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Cooking Notes

The first time I made this, I accidentally omitted the water for the starter because it was not included in the list of ingredients.

I am a bit upset with this recipe. I love to make bread, all kinds of breads. Then I made this recipe, all of of sudden my wife decided that was"THE BREAD" I am stuck making it once a week What a great recipe, I personally find it a bit sweet, I make it once a week and I put 20% less sugar. It is fascinating how the moisture trapped in the "roux" releases and keeps the bread moist for days. One of the greatest recipe I have ever come across.

This recipe makes soft squishy delicious bread. I made two batches to use up all of the starter. With the first, I divided the dough into 16 portions and stuffed with Chinese bbq pork mix. Baked on a sheet with parchment. With the second, I rolled them into knots. Placed the knots into a round cake pan to make pull apart bread. I used the same instructions for letting it rest twice - the second time after I formed the buns and knots. The buns took about 30 minutes. The knots 35 minutes. A hit!

I've been looking for a recipe like this for years! This is also called "shokupan" in Japan. I made this in a 13x4 pullman loaf pan, but to fill the pan you'd need to double the recipe (i.e., use the entire amount of starter and double the amount of flour, egg, etc.). My stand mixer also broke so I mixed by hand -- it took twice the amount of time, but I got my exercise in, and the resulting bread was still soft and springy, with a wonderfully elastic (but not gummy) crumb.

The milk/flour starter concept can be used with most any yeast dough recipe to give the finished product a lighter and softer texture. I use it with cinnamon rolls, whole wheat bread, and sweet breads. Just use some of the flour called for in the recipe, and the milk for some of the total liquid quantity in the recipe to make the starter, let it cool, and add in the first kneading stage.

starter:

34 grams bread flour
90 ml whole milk
90 ml water

487 grams bread 90 grams sugar 2 1/4 tsp instant yeast 6 grams of salt 3 ounces egg 180 ml milk 90 grams butter

This bread is absolutely 100% intended for a pullman loaf pan. Why on earth don't the instructions reflect that? The ingredients don't either. I made this in a standard sized pullman pan and the numbers just didn't add up. The bread therefore got overblown and collapsed. I agree with the person who suggested you might need to double or at least increase the recipe by 50% in order to fill the pan. Even the picture shows a loaf baked in a pullman!! Very disappointing- Please adjust!

To simplify preparation, I used a bread machine to mix, knead and provide the initial rise. At the time the machine switched to the bake cycle, I quickly removed the dough and placed it in a "pain de mie" (pullman bread) pan for the final rise and baked it in accordance with the typical pain de mie recipe (King Arthur Flour website). Still delicious, beautifully formed -- and much easier!

The stiffer the tangzhong is, the more delicate/softer the structure becomes

I followed the recipe to the letter, but had to do everything by hand, for lack of a stand mixer. It still came out great! Tender crumb and thin crust. I found, however, that it tastes more like a French brioche than a Japanese "shokupan." I should have realized this the moment I saw the egg in the list of ingredients. I want to try again, leaving out the egg. I am looking for a milky-white crumb.

First time I tried this recipe, and it turned out great. Here are the notes, variations, and specifics:

• I measured by weight rather than by volume for the dry ingredients.
• I used King Arthur bread flour.
• I used a bread machine to mix the ingredients and do the first rise using the dough cycle, and then prepared the loaf in the way outlined by these instructions.
• The tangzhong came out fine, but the dough mixture was too soft and needed another 1/4 cup more flour or so.

You may have omitted the water because it is mentioned in the instructions, but not the list of ingredients.

O.K., I’m done searching for bread recipes. This one is like no other, a dream come true. I couldn’t care less about how healthy or unhealthy this bread is. It flawlessly meets my three pillars of excellence: looks good, tastes good,(we can’t stop eating it), and smells good. People I trust couldn’t believe I made it. I am happy to share my only deviation from the recipe: I used Caputo 00 Chef’s Flour throughout the entire process. Go for it! Thank you, NY Times

King Arthur Bread Flour is 120 g/cup, so 2½ cups is around 300 g.

I would say make sure you use the right amount of yeast and that your kitchen is kept warm when proofing your dough. Your dough should double its original size at least. Also, be sure to cool your bread to a bit warmer than room temp before removing from the pan and cutting. Be sure to follow the steps carefully and exactly. Try watching tutorials on YouTube. I find them helpful and you can get a technique that's comfortable and effective for you. Hope this helps.

I was a bit skeptical when I saw the recipe because I have never made homemade braid that doesn’t require you to activate the yeast before hand. I became nervous when I saw how much butter went into the bread, but decided to trust the process. It certainly came out delicious but not the best bread I’ve had and it certainly was nowhere near authentic Japanese bread that I’ve had before which is the only reason why I gave it the rating I did. I doubled the recipe to use the full starter.

Like some other commenters, I found this bread very sweet. While I liked how caramelly and crackly the crust became, it didn't really fit for the flavor profile I was looking for. Not bad though, I'll cut back on the sugar next time

Made this in a 9X13 King Arthur Pullman loaf pan. 1.5 times recipe with these adjustments. Use 1 can of evaporated milk—just enough for the cooked portion and dough—a little left over to brush on top. Use all the tangzhong; 2 eggs; 1/3 whole wheat, 2/3 white bread flour; 4 Tbs butter (reduced from 6 because evaporated milk is already high fat). Let rise till about 1/2 inch from top of pan, close lid and bake at 350 for 25 min. Remove lid and bake 10 more min. Today was 4th try and the best yet.

don't bother waiting for the starter to cool. instead, just pour the cold milk into it and stir. bingo.

I have some experience baking bread. This bread is delicious. There is a bakery near me that makes this. I tried it and searched for a recipe. I used the full amount of starter and baked two loaves, one of which I gave away. I think I will cut back a little bit on the sugar next time. It makes me think of a lighter version of brioche.

This recipe needs to be rewritten to use all of the starter by doubling the dough ingredients

How have they still not added water into the ingredients list?!

I’m irritated that the recipe calls for twice as much tangzhong as you need, the rest of which you will have to discard or find another use for. Why? I’ve made tangzhong in smaller quantities with no issue. I guarantee that many who do not read the recipe more than once will, like I did, add the whole amount and then end up with a sticky goopy dough.

I solved that problem: while the first loaf cooled, I made cinnamon buns with the 2nd half. Used 1/3c of sugar for the sweeter dough and they are perfect!

Kind of time intensive but it’s wonderful and my boyfriend can’t stop talking about it

Step 7 should be done midway of Step 10, to minimize unnecessary electricity consumption.

This is the most addictive bread I have ever made, and I make bread almost every day! Easy recipe with a great reward!

so so good was looking for a recipe to make loaf bread so i could save a bit of money on groceries and this was the perfect replacement for sandwich bread! so light and fluffy perfect for beginner bread makers

Taste was very good. Instructions for shaping it were very confusing. I put them both long ways but staggered, but then next it says to rise until they touch… already were, oops. Rolling a 6” square, how are you supposed to fit it in a <5” pan? After making I watched a video where they fold the sides in, rather than top and bottom, making a much less wide log that fits better. Would be helpful if the photo was of bread made in the type of pan called for in the recipe, rather than a pullman loaf.

Minor tidbit, but I think they tell you to preheat the oven way too early. It should be right before you left them rest for 40 minutes.

very forgiving - didn't realize that the starter was meant for two loaves until I was halfway through mixing and didn't feel like making two loaves, so doubled everything right there to make one extra large loaf, which fit perfectly into my pullman loaf pan. Didn't bother with every finicky step to make and fold the ovals, etc. Shaped the dough in two logs in the pan, let rise overnight in the fridge. Did not brush top with milk. Still delicious.

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