Rosemary Chicken Ragù

Rosemary Chicken Ragù
Kelly Marshall for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Roscoe Betsill. Prop Stylist: Paige Hicks.
Total Time
About 1 hour
Rating
4(866)
Notes
Read community notes

Requiring just 30 minutes of simmering, this is the ragù to make any old night. Made with chicken, it is lighter than traditional ragù, but has strong flavors from butter, anchovies, rosemary, garlic and a hefty kick of red-pepper flakes. (You can use less if that scares you.) With such a savory base of ingredients, you can skip browning the chicken and still be rewarded with juicy meat that willingly shreds when pulled with forks. The silky sauce and delicate strands of chicken like to twirl with long noodles, but they would also be great over polenta, mashed potatoes, white beans or farro. Meal planners, you should know that this recipe makes 6 cups of sauce and will keep 3 days refrigerated — and improves with time.

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Ingredients

Yield:4 servings
  • 3tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 3tablespoons tomato paste
  • 6garlic cloves, finely grated or chopped
  • 4anchovy fillets
  • 1teaspoon red-pepper flakes
  • 1rosemary sprig (or ¾ teaspoon dried)
  • ½cup dry white wine (optional)
  • 1½ to 2pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs
  • 1(28-ounce) can crushed or whole tomatoes
  • Salt
  • 1pound long noodles like pappardelle or fettuccine
  • Grated Parmesan, for serving
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (4 servings)

428 calories; 18 grams fat; 8 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 6 grams monounsaturated fat; 3 grams polyunsaturated fat; 17 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams dietary fiber; 7 grams sugars; 44 grams protein; 1085 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Melt the butter in a large Dutch oven or pot over medium. Add the tomato paste, garlic, anchovies, red-pepper flakes and rosemary. Stir until the tomato paste is a shade darker and sticking to the bottom of the pot, 2 to 4 minutes. If you have some white wine open, add ½ cup and simmer until nearly all evaporated, 2 to 4 minutes.

  2. Step 2

    Add the chicken and tomatoes and season generously with salt. If using whole tomatoes, break them up with your spoon. It may not seem like a lot of liquid, but the chicken will give off juices in time. Bring to a boil over medium-high, then reduce heat to gently simmer over medium-low until the chicken’s cooked through and the sauce is flavorful, 30 to 35 minutes.

  3. Step 3

    Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.

  4. Step 4

    When the chicken is ready, turn off the heat under the sauce. Add the pasta to the boiling water and cook until al dente. Reserve 1 cup pasta water, then drain the pasta. While the pasta’s cooking, remove the rosemary from the sauce. Using two forks, shred the chicken right in the pot. Taste and adjust with salt. Return to medium-low to keep warm and thicken slightly until the pasta is ready. (Some chicken is so juicy that the sauce might seem thin; just simmer it until it’s thickened.)

  5. Step 5

    Add the pasta to the sauce and toss assertively over medium-high until the pasta is well coated. Add pasta water as needed to help the sauce cling to the pasta. Serve with grated Parmesan on top.

Ratings

4 out of 5
866 user ratings
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Cooking Notes

I keep a tube of anchovy paste which adds that umami hit but goes completely undetected in the finished product. I don’t care for whole tinned anchovies but this goes lots of places!

It's not exactly that "some chicken is so juicy," it's that most chicken carcasses have been injected with ice-cold water, and about 5% of the water is retained in the chicken you buy. Buy air-cooled chicken, instead. It's tastier.

Browning bone in, skin on chicken thighs to start and adding them to the sauce makes a richer sauce. After the sauce cools down in the fridge, remove the thighs. Remove the bones and skin from the thighs and set aside. Cut up the cold thighs and add them back to the sauce.

Excellent. Used Whole Foods air dried chicken thighs. I did rinse out the tomato can and add about 3/4 cup of water. Slow simmer for 50 minutes produced the results I was after - a thickened sauce and chicken that shredded easily. Will definitely make this again.

I think you need some sort of umami. You might try white miso paste, about a teaspoon per anchovy. Or, as mentioned above, fish sauce. Also, Worcestershire sauce might work, as would a good salty olive.

Thoughts on either a non-seafood sub for the anchovies, or how much omitting them would change this?

Made this exactly as written, except before putting the chicken in the pot, I cut it up into pieces about 1 x 2 inches, making it unnecessary to shred the chicken later, and speeding up the final process. Delicious!

Delicious! Re: shredding the chicken. A whole lot easier to shred each piece of chicken on a board then slide it back into the sauce.

I just prepared this for Sunday dinner, and it was delicious. I didn’t have any anchovies, but fish sauce seemed a good substitute. I used fettuccine, but would love to try it with a wider noodle like pappardelle next time. Quick and simple, lots of flavor. Thanks, Ali!

Has anyone tried this recipe with ground chicken ?

This is a very easy, very delicious recipe. The anchovies are absolutely essential to the flavor… feel free to substitute, but then you are making something else, IMO. They provide the umami that your guests will not be able to identify, but they sure will like the taste. I made exactly as written, except I chopped the rosemary leaves instead of throwing in a whole sprig. Also, shred the chicken outside the pot and put it back in as others have suggested. Another great recipe by Ali.

Really delicious. I should have kept the pasta water since it was a little dry the second day. My other option could have been to only mix in the pasta on the portion that I ate each day. I knew that the recipe was too much for one person and could have adjusted it accordingly. But I love the deep rich flavors with a hint of heat. My boneless skinned chicken thighs took about 45 - 50 minutes to cook through enough for a good shred. I may do this again with bone in thighs for more flavor.

Without the chicken thighs it wouldn't be chicken ragu, would it? How do 6 cloves of garlic, 4 anchovy filets, red pepper flakes and rosemary turn out flavorless?

Pasta water is used to make a creamy sauce. The starch in pasta water emulsifies the sauce, making it thicker. It is not meant to dilute the sauce to make it watery.

Anyone who mentions not enough flavor simply did not add enough salt. Canned tomatoes require a great deal of salt, the pasta water also needs a very healthy dose of salt. If it tastes flat or dull, it needs more salt.

Deeply savory and satisfying, no notes, and far better than it deserves to be for the time required. Used dry rosemary.

Mediocre recipe. Bland and one-dimensional. The chicken thighs have no place here. It would have been better suited to clams or shrimp. I won't be making this again. I wasted a good can of DOP San Marzanos.

Had some expiring nduja. Mixed it in right before the chicken. Highly recommend!

I made this pretty much as written but adjusted the anchovies (used 2 fillets) and less red pepper. The end was very tasty, but I think it was too acidic (from the tomatoes). Perhaps using San Marzano tomatoes might sweeten the sauce a bit. Next time, I will dice and carmelize onions, then add the other ingredients. That should sweeten the sauce and not add that much time.

Pet Peeve ... recipes that call for unsalted butter and then say to salt generously! :)

I'll admit it was a mistake to try chicken breasts vs. thighs but still I think this recipe is oddly underseasoned. Will try again with thighs and perhaps a bit more anchovy? Or perhaps some miso and/or fish sauce as suggested below - thanks for that, Stacy VB!

Delicious! I don't understand the people who had problems with this recipe. It is such an easy, straightforward, and delicious recipe. Just trust it.

Made this last night and WOW. Doubled the recipe to feed 7. Used the wine and one can each of whole and crushed tomatoes. Left out the red pepper flakes to accommodate a nursing mother w/ a newborn. Read the other notes and was not shy with the salt. Cooked twice as long due to late sister. Not sure how some people found this bland??? 2 people asked me for the recipe. Work to reward ratio was off the charts. Leftovers made a killer lunch. A+ in my book. Thank you!!!!

This is excellent as is. My “they think they don’t like anchovies “ crowd never knew until I revealed their existence. Going in our weeknight rotation.

Super delicious. Of course, doubled the garlic and rosemary. Also added a handful of sliced mushrooms that were languishing in the crisper. Ate it three nights straight. Really good over soft polenta.

Red pepper flakes, red pepper flakes, everywhere I look. The current NYT nervous tic. Aleppo? Gochujang?

Did this in the Instant pot: saute function, high pressure 10 mins once added tomatoes and chicken, 5 min natural release then manual, back to saute function for about 5 mins to cook off some liquid. Might be able to cut down on the pressure time or go straight to manual release, as the chicken was at 195F after I released the pressure. Used vermouth instead of white wine as that's what's in the fridge. Held up to a Rioja for dinner, served over cascateli, no need for flat pasta.

What is umami?

It’s the fifth basic flavour, the savoury, mouthwatering flavour of meat, mushrooms, tomatoes, anything with glutamates in it.

Most disappointing NYT recipe I’ve ever made. I made as directed and it was so bland. Tried adding Worcestershire sauce and more anchovy but still not good.

Used anchovy paste and dried rosemary. Served with roasted potatoes and carrots. SO GOOD. Loved by all at the dinner table. Five stars from both parents and the foodie 12-year-old, 4.5 from the very picky almost-14-year-old.

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