Lablabi (Tunisian Chickpea Soup)

Lablabi (Tunisian Chickpea Soup)
Andrew Purcell for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Barrett Washburne.
Total Time
About 2½ hours, plus overnight soaking
Rating
4(2,637)
Notes
Read community notes

There are myriad ways to cook lablabi, the classic, cumin and garlic scented chickpea soup from Tunisia. This version, adapted from Joe Yonan’s cookbook “Cool Beans” (Ten Speed Press, 2020), has crunchy, spice-sprinkled chickpeas garnishing the top, and a creamy, silky broth made from puréeing some of the chickpeas and stirring them back into the pot. It’s earthy and satisfying, with a chile kick from harissa and a bright tanginess from a squeeze of lemon at the end. —Melissa Clark

Featured in: This Garlicky, Spicy Chickpea Stew Is Exactly What You Need

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Ingredients

Yield:6 to 8 servings

    For the Crispy Chickpeas

    • cup cooked chickpeas, or 1 (15-ounce) can chickpeas, drained and rinsed
    • 2teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
    • ½teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
    • 1teaspoon za’atar, plus more to taste

    For the Soup

    • cups dried chickpeas, soaked overnight and drained
    • ¼cup plus 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for serving
    • 2bay leaves
    • teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
    • ½loaf hearty rustic bread (about 8 ounces)
    • 1cup chopped onion, from 1 medium onion
    • 6garlic cloves, minced or finely grated
    • 1tablespoon ground cumin, plus more for serving
    • 1tablespoon tomato paste
    • 1tablespoon harissa paste, plus more for serving
    • 3tablespoons fresh lemon juice
    • 1tablespoon finely grated lemon zest, for serving
    • ½cup chopped flat-leaf parsley, for serving
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (8 servings)

413 calories; 18 grams fat; 2 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 10 grams monounsaturated fat; 3 grams polyunsaturated fat; 51 grams carbohydrates; 9 grams dietary fiber; 9 grams sugars; 15 grams protein; 355 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Prepare the crispy chickpeas: Transfer chickpeas to a rimmed baking sheet lined with a clean dish towel or paper towels. Cover with another towel (or paper towels) on top, rubbing gently to dry. Remove top towel and let air-dry for at least 30 minutes and preferably 1 hour.

  2. Step 2

    As chickpeas dry, start preparing the soup: In a Dutch oven or heavy stockpot, combine soaked chickpeas, 5 cups water, 1 tablespoon olive oil, bay leaves and ½ teaspoon salt over high heat. Bring to a boil for 2 to 3 minutes, then reduce heat to a simmer, cover and cook until chickpeas are tender, about 1 to 2 hours.

  3. Step 3

    Heat oven to 400 degrees. While chickpeas are cooking, cut bread into thick slices, then tear slices into bite-size pieces. Place bread in one layer on large rimmed baking sheet and toast until crisp and light brown, about 10 minutes. Let cool on pan and set aside.

  4. Step 4

    Finish the crunchy chickpeas: Raise oven temperature to 425 degrees. Remove the towels from baking sheet with the chickpeas, and toss the chickpeas with 2 teaspoons olive oil, ½ teaspoon salt and za’atar until well coated. Roast until golden and crispy, about 13 to 18 minutes, tossing halfway through. When chickpeas are still hot, sprinkle lightly more salt. Taste and add more salt or za’atar, or both, if you’d like.

  5. Step 5

    When the chickpeas for the soup are tender, discard bay leaves. Using a slotted spoon, transfer 2 cups of chickpeas, ½ cup of chickpea cooking liquid and ¼ cup olive oil to a blender or food processor, and purée until smooth. (Alternatively, you can use an immersion blender to blitz half the chickpeas into a rough purée. Add the olive oil before puréeing. The broth won’t be as silky as it would be puréed in a regular blender, but it will taste just as good.)

  6. Step 6

    In a large skillet over medium-high, heat the remaining 2 tablespoons oil until shimmering. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and cook until golden, about 2 minutes. Add the remaining 1 teaspoon salt, 1 tablespoon cumin and tomato paste and cook, stirring, until fragrant, 1 minute. Add a splash of the chickpea cooking liquid to the pan, and bring to a simmer to deglaze, scraping up the browned bits on the bottom of the pan. Turn off heat.

  7. Step 7

    Add chickpea purée and onion mixture to soup, along with harissa and lemon juice, and stir well. Add a little water if soup seems too thick, and more salt, if needed.

  8. Step 8

    To serve, divide toasted bread pieces among soup bowls, then ladle in soup. Garnish with lemon zest, parsley, olive oil, more cumin and some of the crispy chickpeas — you’ll have leftovers. Serve hot, with more harissa on the side.

Tip
  • You can use an electric or stovetop pressure cooker in Step 2 if you like. To do so, cook on high for 35 minutes, and let the pressure release naturally.

Ratings

4 out of 5
2,637 user ratings
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Private Notes

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Cooking Notes

Step 2: ... In a Dutch oven or heavy stockpot, combine soaked chickpeas, 5 cups water, ...

It would be handy to have a clearer conversions here. To make the crispy chickpeas from dried, how much do I need to make the cooked amount listed? Conversely, in the soup portion, how much does that amount of dried chickpeas make of cooked (in case I want to use canned?)

... but zataar is a bit trickier.... Adds a nice note. But, interestingly, my relatives in Tunisia never use zataar... it is more used in the levant areas of the middle east, not in N. Africa. We do use alot of it in my very blended household but for making this recipe, the harissa would be more important than the zataar (in my opinion....)

1.5 cups of dried beans is about 3 cups cooked.

don't fret about proportions and measurements. we're making soup, not baking a cake. if it tastes good to you, it's correct.

This is delicious with canned chicks for both the crisp and the soup, knocks off the overnight and cuts down to less then an hour. Fort those who had trouble air drying the chicks pop them in the over with door open at 170 or so, dry in 10 minutes, then kick the oven to 425 and toast, takes maybe 35 minutes. All the stuff in step 6 can go in the blender too...I prefer the garlic that way and it means you don't have to be picky about mincing or grating it.

“Dryed chickpeas soaked overnight” ugh, really? Can I just skip the soaking and used canned? What’s the difference?

Do you have Trader Joe's in your area? They sell an awesome Tunisian harissa at a very excellent low price. We buy it in loads for home use. Otherwise, it can be pretty quick and easy to whip up at home with good results: recipes abound on the internet. Basically chiles (dried, rehydrated or sometimes fresh or a mix), caraway, cumin, garlic, sometimes carrot (yes...) olive oil. Can vary tremendously in texture, consistency but it is basically a hot, spicy chile paste condiment. Good luck!

I used canned chickpeas to make the crispy one, and despite drying as directed, they took twice the length of time to crisp up. Used an instant pot for the soup itself - 2 min pressure cook and 10 min rest without releasing the steam to get the equivalent of an overnight soak, and then 15 minutes pressure cook instead of 1-2 hours for the rest of step 2. Used saute setting low while finishing the rest of the steps. All good.

Nice recipe. This is a favorite street food in Tunisia - and delicious. When I ate this in Tunisia my favorite part was choosing garnishes: tuna, chopped hard-boiled eggs, minced garlic, capers, olive oil, more harissa, olive oil, etc. It is a wonderful meal in a bowl. The bread, I have found, can be too much and make the soup thicker than you might like.

The standard yield ratio of beans is 1:3 (1 part dried beans will yield 3 parts of cooked beans). One pound of dried beans is 2 cups volume and will yield 6 cups. The 1:3 ratio applies to beans (legumes) only. It does not apply to members of the Pulse family like lentils which have a yield ratio of roughly 1:2 depending on the type of lentil. Those looking for quick and easy should try Ali Slagel's Chickpea Harissa soup in NYT. Not remotely the same as this stew but good.

This recipe is definitely written by a chef for chefs so I get why some comments critique the vagueness. However I served this in my restaurant and used this recipe as more of a rough outline, taking liberties where I saw fit and received great feedback on the end result.

My husband really liked this soup, but I’m the one who made it and it was way too much work for what you get in the end. The broth is thin and watery. And it’s the type of recipe that dirties every bowl, pan, utensil, and appliance in the house. Off to do the dishes....

I cooked the all the chickpeas at once. Much simpler. This recipe is basically a three day project (for someone with a day job). Day 1 - soak the chickpeas. Day 2 - cook the chickpeas, cool, and fridge overnight. Day 3 - everything else. The crispy chickpeas are a lot of effort, but they add a wonderful contrast with their crunch, salt, and spice. The toasted bread is less effort, but also less necessary. It's nice, but can easily be skipped.

There are actually 4 and 1/2 cups of cooked chickpeas. It's a 1 to 3 conversion i.e., 1 cup of dried chickpeas equals 3 cups of cooked. Hope this helps.

Because I didn't have harissa, I found a substitue on the web -- a combination of tomato paste and cayenne (at a 1:1 ratio). OMG the soup was so hot it was almost inedible. We loaded it up with more toast and some chevre. Wish it had worked out better.

Delicious! I made the chickpeas first in an instant pot (w the bay and oil), and used some of those to roast. Cooked the onions etc in a soup pot and added the puréed and non-puréed chickpeas to let it come together. Using the IP, unsoaked, the whole thing took maybe 2.5 hours and was SO worth it!

I'm confused about za'atar and sumac (which I have and love). I've read in some places that sumac is an essential ingredient in za'atar, but some recipes have only the herb called za'atar. Can I make it with my sumac? What else is essential to za'atar for this recipe?

I was recently in Tunis and had Lablabi in the old Medina. The addition of roughly chopped preserved lemon made this dish sing!

Outrageously hearty and not hard to make. Could have a little more depth in the spices but that's only if I'm being picky

Ended up having to add 2 cans of chickpeas, not enough stayed in the soup after pureeing

This did not make anywhere near 6 to 8 servings, to the point I had to re-read the recipe multiple times to make sure I wasn't forgetting something. It was otherwise really tasty.

The crunchy chick peas, while a fun snack, add nothing to this dish. Don’t bother with them.

Dried beans to dinner done in 2.5 hours, thanks to the instant pot. This is one of the best stews I’ve ever made, and I don’t always love chick peas. So delicious, so worth the effort. I have preserved lemons and they added the perfect touch. Wow!

This recipe is way too complicated. This is what I did last night: saute some onion and garlic, add toasted ground cumin, salt and bay leaves; add 3 cans of undrained chickpeas, cook until they soften, use an immersion blender to blend as much as you want. (I forgot the tomato paste, so I added a little white miso later for umami.) Add lemon juice and harissa to taste, sprinkle parsley and enjoy with day-old baguette. It took about 30 minutes all-in. I skipped the toasted chickpeas.

Yummy!

This is to die for! We loved it. I found that I had to add a lot more water than the recipe called for. I will also not bother with the crispy chick peas next time. Mine weren't crispy even though I let them dry out for over an hour. Perhaps because they were previously frozen canned? Flavour was nice but the texture was chewy rather than crisp and very similar to the non-pureed chickpeas.

I drained the chickpeas so now I have a very spicy, but delicious, sludge. I think I might drain a can of chickpeas and simmer the chickpea lawater with the sludge. I’ll do it tomorrow, I have stuff to wash now. Sigh.

This was great! If using canned chickpeas (I was!) I started essentially with step 6- browning the onion then garlic then spices and tomato paste (I added harissa at this step too). Then I added bay leaves, my chickpeas, a splash of the liquid from the can, and vegetable broth and hot water to cover the chickpeas. Brought to a boil then simmered, covered until all the flavors got to know each other and finished with stirring in the lemon juice and blitzing with the immersion blender. 10/10

This makes a savory, comforting broth. The roasted chickpeas make the dish.

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Credits

Adapted from “Cool Beans” by Joe Yonan (Ten Speed Press, 2020)

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