Not Risotto With Shrimp and Winter Squash

Preparation

1. Step 1

   Put 1 tablespoon olive oil in a deep skillet over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add the shrimp and ⅓ of the sliced red onion. Cook until browned, at least 5 minutes. Turn the heat to high, and add salt, 1 tomato and the smashed garlic clove; continue cooking for another minute. Add 2 cups water, bring to a boil, then reduce heat and cook for 5 minutes, thickening slightly. Use an immersion blender to purée the mixture, then strain it. (This is your shrimp purée.)

2. Step 2

   Carefully wipe the skillet clean, and add 2 tablespoons olive oil; put the skillet over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add the remaining red onion and chopped garlic clove and sauté until they begin to brown, about 2 minutes. Add the rice and cook, stirring occasionally, until it is glossy and coated with oil, about 2 minutes. Add the second tomato, and let its liquid bubble away.

3. Step 3

   Using a ladle, alternately add the shrimp purée, the squash purée and about 1½ cups water to the skillet, about ½ cup or so at a time, stirring after each addition. When the liquid is just about evaporated, add more. The mixture should be neither soupy nor dry; stir frequently, keeping the heat at medium to medium-high.

4. Step 4

   Begin tasting the rice about 20 minutes after you add it. You want it to be tender with a bit of bite; it can take as long as 30 minutes to reach this stage. When it does, adjust the seasoning. Serve with chopped chives or sprouts and fresh lime juice.