Egusi Soup

Updated Oct. 12, 2023

Egusi Soup
Kelly Marshall for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Roscoe Betsill. Prop Stylist: Paige Hicks.
Total Time
1 hour 15 minutes
Prep Time
15 minutes
Cook Time
1 hour
Rating
4(94)
Notes
Read community notes

A delicious blend of stewed leafy greens bathed in a nutty, creamy sauce of ground egusi seeds, this soup is incredibly popular across West Africa. The off-white, sliced almond-shaped seeds are harvested from the melon fruit of a climbing vine native to West Africa. Also known as egunsi, agushi or egwusi, they act as a thickener in soup, especially when combined with a broth and added to a base of onions, palm oil and irú. This recipe includes chunks of meaty roasted mushrooms and fresh tender spinach leaves, but use what’s available to you, whether that’s meat or more traditional hearty greens, like ẹ̀fó̩ tẹ́tẹ (amaranth greens), ugwu (fluted pumpkin leaves) or tender ẹ̀fó̩ gbure (waterleaf). Each version you make that’s a little different is also a little more personal. But it’s the seeds that make it always recognizable.

Featured in: Why Egusi Is More Than Just a Great Soup

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Ingredients

Yield:6 servings

    For the Soup

    • 1pound mixed mushrooms, such as oyster, button, shiitake, cremini and maitake, cleaned, trimmed and cut or torn into 2-inch pieces if large
    • ¼cup extra-virgin olive oil
    • Salt
    • 1packed cup dried, peeled egusi seeds or 1¼ cups ground egusi seeds
    • 2cups vegetable stock or water
    • 1pound fresh baby spinach (see Tip)

    For the Ata Din-din

    • 1medium yellow onion, halved lengthwise
    • 3garlic cloves
    • 1(1-inch) piece fresh ginger, scrubbed
    • 1(16-ounce) jar roasted red bell peppers, drained
    • ½cup red palm oil
    • 1tablespoon irú (fermented locust bean) or 2 teaspoons dawadawa powder
    • 1teaspoon red miso (optional)
    • 1red or orange Scotch bonnet chile
    • 1plum tomato, chopped
Ingredient Substitution Guide

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Heat the oven to 425 degrees. Spread the mushrooms in an even layer on a small rimmed sheet pan and drizzle with the olive oil. Season lightly with salt and, using your hands, toss to coat. Roast, turning the pan halfway through and tossing the mushrooms, until golden brown and crisp along the edges, about 25 to 35 minutes.

  2. Step 2

    If using whole egusi seeds, add to a food processor, pulsing a few times, then grinding, until you get a medium-coarse meal, about 30 seconds to 1 minute. Move to a small bowl. (If using ground seeds, add them here.) Combine ground seeds with ½ cup vegetable stock or water. Season lightly with salt and set aside.

  3. Step 3

    Make the ata din-din: In the food processor — no need to wipe it out — coarsely chop half of the onion, and all of the garlic and ginger. Add the roasted red bell peppers and pulse to a coarse purée.

  4. Step 4

    Thinly slice the remaining onion and heat the red palm oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the sliced onions and cook until soft and translucent, 3 minutes. Add the red pepper purée and bring to a simmer. Add the irú or dawadawa powder and the red miso (if using). Drop in the whole chile and add the chopped tomato. Allow to simmer, stirring frequently until the sauce deepens in color, the tomato cooks down and any liquid dries out, about 12 minutes. The ata din-din should resemble a cooked relish with oil on the surface. Season lightly with salt and move about half of the sauce to a bowl.

  5. Step 5

    While the sauce simmers, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Blanch the spinach until just wilted and bright green, about 30 seconds. Drain and run under cold water immediately. Working in handfuls, squeeze the spinach as dry as you can. You should have about 2 cups packed. Set aside.

  6. Step 6

    To the large skillet with ata din-din, increase the heat to medium-high and add the remaining 1½ cups stock. Bring to a simmer and dot the sauce with tablespoonfuls of the egusi purée. Reduce the heat to medium, cover and cook without stirring until the egusi purée absorbs the stock, thickening and congealing into lumps, about 10 minutes. Remove the lid and cook off any excess liquid, moving the skillet back and forth, to keep the cooked egusi in lumps. Increase the heat back to medium-high, separate the squeezed spinach, and scatter along with the roasted mushrooms into the skillet and top with the reserved ata din-din. Gently stir to distribute the spinach and mushrooms into the sauce, making sure the egusi stays in lumps.

  7. Step 7

    Cook until spinach and mushrooms are warmed through, about 5 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning with additional salt, if necessary. Remove the whole chile and discard. Serve immediately, along with hot fufu.

Tips
  • Egusi seeds and irú can be found dried and peeled, sold whole or finely ground at local West african grocers or online. If you can’t find egusi seeds, whole raw pine nuts or peeled raw pumpkin seeds — ground and cooked in a similar fashion — would replicate the creamy, nutty elements imparted by egusi seeds.
  • You can replace the fresh spinach with 24 ounces of defrosted whole-leaf spinach, from frozen. Defrost the spinach in the refrigerator, squeeze dry in handfuls and measure 2 packed cups. Follow the instructions in Step 6 to add to the sauce.

Ratings

4 out of 5
94 user ratings
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Cooking Notes

I made this exactly as instructed; turned out to be an expensive culinary misadventure. The photo on the NYT cooking page bears no resemblance to the recipe. You need to cut the spinach by 75%, double the tomatoes, and halve the mushrooms. Second, the author did not bother warning about the extremely pungent/alkaline smells that iru/dawadawa generate. For someone who has never tried this before, it might be repellent. We ended up throwing the stew in the trash and ventilating the kitchen.

I have had this soup and like it, but I can't imagine making it on my own. Making fufu from scratch, or even from fufu flour, has always looked like a big undertaking to me. In Haitian cuisine I believe it's called tonmtonm and is often served with kalalou (or gumbo).

I ate this when I was in West Africa; it's very good. The photo has a large ball of fufu in it, but no recipe. Fufu is a starchy dumpling that is pounded in a mortar for ages; one can buy instant fufu in West African stores in the states.

We are huge mushroom fans so those portions were just right. We just used dried lotus seeds instead of something fermented, and went with naan instead of the fufu. Didn’t smell anything but delicious to us. My husband had two bowls!

Made this recipe and only did only a few things differently because I couldn’t find certain ingredients because I made the dish last minute. I didn’t use iru or red miso, instead of red palm oil. I made an annatto inspired oil by using 1/2 cup vegetable oil and 1 tbsp each of sweet paprika and turmeric. Lastly, I used pumpkin seeds instead of Egusi. Absolutely delicious. Everyone in the house loved it.

We are huge mushroom fans so those portions were just right. We just used dried lotus seeds instead of something fermented, and went with naan instead of the fufu. Didn’t smell anything but delicious to us. My husband had two bowls!

This recipe looked and sounded excellent but we were unable to eat the finished soup. I bought the fermented dawadawa from a local but very small Nigerian restaurant/grocery. The proprietor warned me of the “uniqueness” but I was game. All was good until I added those to the recipe. We couldn’t tolerate the smell or the taste. An African adventure to be sure but just too different. I will go back to the Nigerian restaurant but I’ll avoid this dish.

I am Cuban, and was thrilled Ms. Komolafe is sharing her recipes. As an adult I now realize our cook was adding some of these "exotic" ingredients and cooking her native African recipes learned from her mother to our meals. I learned to love these recipes from her. With any recipe introducing unknown ingredients, I add very small amounts to a dish, and adjust by frequent tasting. I do not want to "westernize" all global foods -there is a reason they are beloved "national dishes" elsewhere.

I can second Ramya's comments about this recipe having too much spinach and mushrooms and being so bitter at the end of cooking that we threw the entire pot out. The dish and sauce tasted pretty good until the egusi and spinach and mushrooms were added.

I made this exactly as instructed; turned out to be an expensive culinary misadventure. The photo on the NYT cooking page bears no resemblance to the recipe. You need to cut the spinach by 75%, double the tomatoes, and halve the mushrooms. Second, the author did not bother warning about the extremely pungent/alkaline smells that iru/dawadawa generate. For someone who has never tried this before, it might be repellent. We ended up throwing the stew in the trash and ventilating the kitchen.

I ate this when I was in West Africa; it's very good. The photo has a large ball of fufu in it, but no recipe. Fufu is a starchy dumpling that is pounded in a mortar for ages; one can buy instant fufu in West African stores in the states.

This recipe is different from how my aunts and uncles make it. For me some of these ingredients would be hard to find in my area, and the mushrooms are a huge no for me because i don't like them. I've never had egusi soup with mushrooms.

I have had this soup and like it, but I can't imagine making it on my own. Making fufu from scratch, or even from fufu flour, has always looked like a big undertaking to me. In Haitian cuisine I believe it's called tonmtonm and is often served with kalalou (or gumbo).

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