Norinj Pilau (Rice With Candied Orange Peel, Saffron and Lamb)

Norinj Pilau (Rice With Candied Orange Peel, Saffron and Lamb)
Chris Simpson for The New York Times. Food stylist: Maggie Ruggiero. Prop stylist: Sophia Pappas.
Total Time
4½ hours
Rating
4(94)
Notes
Read community notes

The sour orange, unlike the sweet orange, is too tart to eat straight. But the peels, when cooked, lend a bright tang and profound fragrance. To make norinj pilau, a celebratory Afghan dish of lamb and rice, Shazia Saif Naimi recruits her husband, Asadullah Naimi, to harvest sour oranges from their backyard. He cuts the peels into skinny strips using a razor blade and brings them to a boil three times, to make sure that most (but, crucially, not all) of the peels’ bitterness is leached out. Then he stirs in sugar, saffron and cardamom, and the scent of honey and white flowers expands through the house. Ms. Naimi braises the lamb and soaks the rice, massaging the grains to release the starch. At the end, lamb and rice are mounded together in a platter of abundance, with one cup of rice — simmered separately with the orange-peel syrup — spread over the top like spilled sun. —Ligaya Mishan

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Ingredients

Yield:8 to 10 servings
  • 4cups long-grain basmati rice, preferably aged
  • 1tablespoon olive oil
  • 3pounds bone-in lamb shanks, cut into 1½-inch pieces (see Tip)
  • Salt
  • 1large onion, diced
  • 3large or 5 small Seville or other sour oranges
  • ¾cup granulated sugar
  • ¼gram saffron, ground (⅛ teaspoon)
  • teaspoons ground cardamom
  • ½cup shelled pistachios, toasted and chopped
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (10 servings)

674 calories; 23 grams fat; 9 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 10 grams monounsaturated fat; 2 grams polyunsaturated fat; 82 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams dietary fiber; 20 grams sugars; 32 grams protein; 668 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Soak the rice: In a large bowl, wash the rice, massaging gently to release the starch without breaking the grains. Drain and repeat 2 times, then soak the rice in enough water to cover (to allow for the grains to expand) for around 2 hours.

  2. Step 2

    Meanwhile, cook the lamb: Heat the oil in a large, deep skillet over medium-high. Season the lamb generously with salt and add to the hot oil. Cook, turning occasionally, until browned, about 10 minutes. Move the lamb to one side of the pan and add the onion to the other side. Season with salt and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Stir to incorporate the lamb, scraping up any browned bits. Add enough water to come halfway up the lamb pieces (about 1 cup), bring to a boil, then cover. Simmer over low heat until tender, 1 to 1½ hours, turning the pieces once or twice and adding 1 to 2 tablespoons water if the pot threatens to dry out.

  3. Step 3

    While the lamb simmers, prepare the orange peels: Thoroughly wash and dry the oranges, then peel them with a vegetable peeler, taking as little of the white pith as possible. Finely slice the peels into very thin strips. You should have 1 cup.

  4. Step 4

    Put the strips in a pot with enough water to cover and bring to a boil over high heat. Let boil for 15 minutes. Drain the water, retaining the peels, then refill with water. Repeat the boiling process two more times. After being boiled three times, the peels will have lost most of their bitterness.

  5. Step 5

    After the third boil, drain the water and add the sugar, saffron, ½ teaspoon cardamom and ¼ cup water to the pot. Cook over medium heat until the sugar has formed a syrup but before it begins to caramelize, about 10 minutes. Transfer the orange peels to a small plate or bowl, reserving the syrup.

  6. Step 6

    Bring an 8-quart, heavy-bottomed pot or Dutch oven of water to a boil. Add the soaked rice to the boiling water and cook, uncovered (the way you would cook pasta), until the grains have slightly softened, 7 to 10 minutes. Drain the rice in a colander, then reserve 1 cup rice and add the remaining back to the original pot.

  7. Step 7

    Add 2 teaspoons salt and the remaining 1 teaspoon cardamom to the pot with the rice and gently stir to combine. Add the lamb mixture (including any liquid) and stir to combine. Mound the rice mixture in the middle of the pot away from the edges and poke holes in the rice with the handle of a wooden spoon for steam to escape. Lay a clean cloth or paper towel over the top of the pot, then put the lid on to hold the cloth in place. Cook on the lowest heat setting for 20 to 30 minutes. When the rice is done, the grains will be tender with a little chewiness at the center.

  8. Step 8

    While the rice and lamb are cooking, take the reserved cup of cooked rice and add to the smaller pot with ¼ cup of the orange syrup. Gently combine, then cover with a lid and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Once simmering, turn the heat to low and cook until the liquid is fully absorbed and the rice is cooked through, 15 to 25 minutes.

  9. Step 9

    Scoop the rice-and-lamb mixture onto a large platter and shape it into a low mound. Take the rice cooked in orange syrup and spread it generously over the top of the mound and down the sides. Spread the candied orange peel over the rice and adorn with the toasted pistachios.

Tip
  • Some markets sell lamb cut into chunks with its bones and you can use that here, but you also can ask the butcher to cut whole shanks into pieces.

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4 out of 5
94 user ratings
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Cooking Notes

Where do you get sour oranges?

Can this be made with regular oranges, and if so, would any modifications need to be made??? Thanks.

My mother makes this with any orange that has a thick enough peel...I always have organic navel or valencia oranges handy when she visits! ;)

If you've never tasted this, it really is a magical, delicious dish. The combination of flavors is unique and probably one of the best and most distinctive from the Afghani food repertoire. Hard to replicate, however, but worth a try! The side of good yogurt is a must.

The Afghan refugees who lived at our home in New Delhi in the 1980's made do with a brilliant substitute: candied carrot strips, which they would combine with the rice and lamb as described above. It was still very tasty although I can't wait to try the original recipe which inspired the make-do substitute!

You can find sour oranges in Latin, Caribbean, and South Asian markets.

This is delicious! Next time, I will take 2 cups of rice to mix with the orange peel juice. One cup did not cover the entire top, as shown in the picture. I used regular oranges for the orange peel, as I could not find seville oranges. I will also use more orange peel next time.

Hispanic/Caribbean markets, and some large chain supermarkets have them also. My local Trade Fair has them.

Delicious! It's not a weekday dish as it takes most of the day unless you make the rice in advance. I used regular orange peels for the syrup and added some lemon juice to make it more tart. I loved the orange-syrup flavored rice that went on the top, but did not get that bright orange color shown in the image, except for the candied peels. Careful of the timing when boiling the rice - 7 min was too long for me and it was a bit mushy. Still very tasty. Don't skip the pistachios.

I neglected to notice that the recipe called for cut up lamb shank, and I had a whole shank. I added (a lot) more water to properly braise it, and did it for 2 and a half hours. I then took the lamb meat off the bone, strained out the onions, and boiled the liquid down to just a half cup or so. That worked well.

I used Mandarin oranges for this and it worked. Dish was delicious but also if you are not a fan of sweet and savory it may not be for you.

Sounds delicious. It uses the same method with the rice as the Iranians for their chela and is reminiscent of the Indian biriani (itself of Persian origin). I've only had good experiences with the chela. One thing bugs me. Simmering already parboiled basmati in syrup for 25 minutes sounds like a recipe for disaster. Unless you want a kind of paste at the end. And you should most definitely keep a close eye on it for signs of catching.

"Simmering already parboiled basmati in syrup for 25 minutes sounds like a recipe for disaster. " Not at all. I did this and the orange scented rice came out beautifully-- with individual grains. Note that the cup of parboiled rice is cooked in only 1/4 cup of syrup, so it's more steamed than boiled. And I'll note that mine was very orange (I'll admit I may have used more saffron than called for).

I halved the recipe, and used a rice cooker to parcook the rice (turn it off when it goes from "cook" to "warm"). I had made candied orange peel from navel oranges a few weeks ago to garnish a rosca de reyes, so I just sliced that thinly and added cardamom, saffron and sugar and water for the orange syrup. Since the lamb pieces were larger and contained bones, I removed the meat from the bones after braising it and added it to the rice. So tasty!!! Would make again. Definitely comfort food...

This is delicious! Next time, I will take 2 cups of rice to mix with the orange peel juice. One cup did not cover the entire top, as shown in the picture. I used regular oranges for the orange peel, as I could not find seville oranges. I will also use more orange peel next time.

Delicious! It's not a weekday dish as it takes most of the day unless you make the rice in advance. I used regular orange peels for the syrup and added some lemon juice to make it more tart. I loved the orange-syrup flavored rice that went on the top, but did not get that bright orange color shown in the image, except for the candied peels. Careful of the timing when boiling the rice - 7 min was too long for me and it was a bit mushy. Still very tasty. Don't skip the pistachios.

i buy dried orange peel slivers from the arab market on the corner. they are dried in a bag and very cheap!

Would this recipe work with goat meat (mutton)?

How much water to cook the rice in?

You are draining it, like pasta, so it's however much you need for the pot.

These oranges grow decoratively in southern Arizona cities like Tucson. As I remember it, they mostly fall to the sidewalk, staining it. I've never heard of a use for them or seen them sold. Sounds like a great dish.

I tried it with the rind of blood oranges and came close to the special taste of a narinj; though the bitterness of the blood orange really makes it a different dish taste. Still, without narinj, what can be done to get the real taste of this simple and elegant dish?

IIRC in the same aisle that has Goya products -- Goya sells bottled juice from naranja agra.

Meyer lemon. Seville oranges. Often one can find suitable oranges in hispanic markets'

Really delicious and way worth the time. A couple of suggestions: I didn't get the "bone-in shanks cut in 1 1/2" chunks. Supposed to bring out the saw? I just cut the meat off the bone and removed tendons. (A job!) I would reduce rice to 3 cups. Amazing flavor and beautiful!

Sourcing sour oranges is the problem here. I’ve seen the 20 lb. box before. Visited a Hispanic grocery but no luck. Would love to get my hands on some.

Could you use cumquats rather than seville oranges

You can find sour oranges in Latin, Caribbean, and South Asian markets.

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Credits

Adapted from Shazia Saif Naimi and Ethan Frisch

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