Hoppin' John

Hoppin' John
Kate Sears for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Monica Pierini.
Total Time
1 hour 45 minutes, plus overnight soaking
Rating
4(1,860)
Notes
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In her cookbook, “Jubilee: Recipes from Two Centuries of African American Cooking,” Toni Tipton-Martin writes about the Carolina lowcountry tradition of the dish Hoppin’ John, as recorded in the “Penn School & Sea Islands Heritage Cookbook.” The dish was described as brown field peas cooked with rice to be eaten for good luck throughout the year. In African American communities, the tradition of eating rice and cowpeas dates to a celebration on Dec. 31, 1862, Freedom’s Eve. On that day, enslaved Africans congregated in churches in the south, eager to hear the news that the Emancipation Proclamation had set them free. The tradition of eating peas and rice for the new year is now deeply held across cultures throughout the United States and ties to centuries-old folklore that might just lead to better health, prosperity and maybe, just maybe, a bit more luck. —Kayla Stewart

Featured in: Tracing the Origins of a Black American New Year’s Ritual

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Ingredients

Yield:8 servings
  • 1pound dried black-eyed peas, picked over for stones, rinsed, soaked in water overnight, and drained
  • ¾pound salt pork or bacon, cut into ¼-inch dice
  • 1small onion, chopped
  • 2large garlic cloves, minced
  • 6cups chicken stock, store-bought or homemade
  • ½cup diced (¼-inch) ham (2½ ounces)
  • ½teaspoon red-pepper flakes
  • Fine salt and black pepper
  • 1cup long-grain rice
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (8 servings)

542 calories; 38 grams fat; 13 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 18 grams monounsaturated fat; 5 grams polyunsaturated fat; 38 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams dietary fiber; 5 grams sugars; 12 grams protein; 1495 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Soak the black-eyed peas in cold water overnight, then drain when ready to cook.

  2. Step 2

    In a large saucepan, cook the salt pork over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until crisp and the fat is rendered, about 6 minutes. Add the onion and garlic and cook until just translucent, about 3 minutes. Stir in the chicken stock, drained black-eyed peas, ham, red-pepper flakes, 1 teaspoon salt and ¼ teaspoon black pepper. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat, cover, and simmer over medium-low heat, skimming any foam that rises to the surface, until tender, about 1 hour.

  3. Step 3

    Taste and season with more salt as desired. Stir in the rice. Cover and return the pot to a simmer over high heat. Reduce the heat to maintain a gentle simmer, cover and cook until the rice is tender, about 20 minutes longer. Remove from the heat and let stand, covered, 5 minutes, then serve.

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4 out of 5
1,860 user ratings
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Cooking Notes

There’s no reason why hoppin’ john can’t be vegetarian. Use vegetable stock and season with some smoked paprika. Black eyed peas from Ranch Gordo are the bean of choice in my house for hoppin’ john.

No need to add fake vegetarian/vegan "meat" - just saute some onion, garlic and chili pepper flakes in olive oil before you add the peas and water/vegetable stock. Poor folks - White and Black - often cook dried beans or peas without meat because they cannot afford it, not because they abhor meat. Dried beans or peas cooked without any meat is a staple of Mexico as well.

A very nice recipe but one improvement . Make your rice separately . After making the pea mixture strain the sauce . Add 1 cup to the dutch oven with pea mixture and keep warm. Reserve the sauce . Then cook rice for 3 minutes in 2 TBS of oil of choice . T Add two cups of cooking liquid from reserved sauce then bring to a boil and simmer covered for 15 minutes . After cooking add rice to pea mix and add 1/4 cup of reserved broth from pea mix til your desired consistency is arrived at.

My southern mother made black-eyed peas, ham, mustard greens and corn bread religiously every New Year’s Day. After her six kids were grown, she called each of us to make sure we’d had a bite of each to insure robust health, prosperity and good fortune throughout the year. I make a version of this meal every January 1st for my family and though my mother has been gone for twenty years, I’ll anticipate hearing the phone ring all day long.

Don't overlook that these foods were needed as "fuel" to run the human engine for hard physical labor. This version is lacking in fat that was easier to get the calories needed for a hard days work for people who could not afford meat. Want to be healthy and respect? Use a bit of vegetable or olive oil. It makes the peas silken in texture and gives the entire dish a sense of luxury from paupers ingredients. Heaven on earth.

Delicious. I did cook the rice separately (with a few fresh bay leaves) as I enjoy the textural difference between the grains and peas and the heady aroma the bay leaves provide the rice. I also whirred about a cup of the cooked peas with an immersion blender, stirred them back into the pot for a silky finish. I look forward to enjoying these with friends tomorrow!

Turned out pretty mushy. I have been cooking black eyed peas for decades so I know how not to overcook. This one was flavored beautifully but consistency just didn’t work out. Cooking rice separately is a better technique for me personally. Also, I never soak. Black eyes are much more fragile than dried beans.

I have used Sea Island Red Peas from Anson Mills in place of the Black Eyed peas. The result is magical.

Crucial addition: raw onions on top. Trust me.

My husband's parents were both from Lubbock, Texas, and black-eyed peas were a (dreaded) New Year's tradition. Today my husband finished his peas and said, "I think those are the best black-eyed peas I've ever eaten." And I made them vegan! Any recipe that causes a girl from Chicago to out cook a Texan at a southern staple is a recipe worth keeping. Thanks!

don't forget the collard greens!

Totally agree with commenter Martha, they can be vegetarian, I like to simmer the black eyed peas in dashi to add umami in place of the salt pork

Make your rice separately . After making the pea mixture strain the sauce . Add 1 cup to the dutch oven with pea mixture and keep warm. Reserve the sauce . Then cook rice for 3 minutes in 2 TBS of oil of choice . T Add two cups of cooking liquid from reserved sauce then bring to a boil and simmer covered for 15 minutes . After cooking add rice to pea mix and add 1/4 cup of reserved broth from pea mix til your desired consistency

1/4 teaspoon each of Burlap and Barrel Cobanero Chili flakes, Smoked Pimenton Paprika, and Smoked Chipotle flakes gives the dish extra kick, depth and lots of flavor without the pork. Good spices are a vegetarian's best friend. +1 on the Rancho Gordo BEP. Happy New Year, everyone!

Every year I look for a recipe for black eyed peas to make for New Year's Day. Typically, they're ok - bland but edible. This time, I finally found a recipe I'll repeat year after year. This is very simple but somehow so delicious! Maybe it's the rice, or probably all the bacon fat (which I drained about half of), but wow this is tasty. I made the recipe as-is and wouldn't change a thing.

Made as written and we loved it. Wouldn’t change a thing.

These beans were amazing! I used Rancho Gordo brand and you don't hardly need to soak them more than a couple hours and they take much quicker to cook than the recipe suggested. Highly recommend!

I hand-crushed a 32 oz. can of whole peeled tomatoes and added that with the rice. I found it added nice bit of tang to cut through the pork fat. I also used smoked ham hocks instead of diced ham.

Added liquid smoke in lieu of ham, did the trick!

This was delicious! I made it with fresh black eyed peas, homemade turkey stock, bacon and subbed kielbasa for the ham. Also great left over heated in fry pan with a little stock allowing some rice to get crispy like fried rice.

Added carrots, onion, celery and a little red pepper. I had no bacon, only leftover Christmas ham, so I just used that. Had to kind of turbo boil this due to time constraints and my family loved it. Will definitely make this again.

Made 1/2 recipe with 1 can black eyed peas. Sauté chopped celery, carrots and larger chopped mushrooms with onions. Add chopped fresh thyme. Cook rice separately w/broth and bay leaves. Yummy!

One improvement - instead of using six cups of chicken stock, I used 6 cups of water and added a ham hock. Delicious! Also cooked the rice separately.

Added a chopped carrot. Didn't use pork since we don't eat beef or pork and used Marie Sharp's hot sauce rather than red pepper flakes...oh, and I added a bay leaf or two. It was great.

Made for New Years. Didn't have bacon but did have some leftover bacon fat, so added some of that to the pan when sauteing the onions. Instead of ham, I added 1 lb. of smoked sausage (large pieces) and cooked that along with the peas (and then rice). Both DH and teenage son liked it (and my DH normally doesn't like beans, so this is saying a lot!).

Definitely cook the rice separately. The two reviewers who recommended this pulled the instructions verbatim from Southern Living. I also made their version and found straining the liquid awkward and messy. But it did make great, flavorful rice. I also ended up with more broth than needed so another pot of tasty rice is in my future.

Great recipe. If using canned beans instead of dry, reduce broth quantity by a cup or two to compensate for moisture that won't be absorbed by the dry beans. Or just enjoy it a bit soupier, as we did.

Good lord this was good.

Also - smoked Cheddar on top on the Hoppin John is delicious.

I had a ton of leftovers and decided to mix things up a little and make a stir fry. I used 2 TBSP of butter, an egg and leftover veggies. Sauted the beans and rice with the veggies in the butter with a little bit of soy sauce, then pushed everything to the side of the pan and scrambled the eggs. Mixed it all together and was pleasantly surprised at how well it turned out.

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Credits

Recipe adapted from “Jubilee: Recipes From Two Centuries of African American Cooking” by Toni Tipton-Martin (Clarkson Potter, 2019)

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