Amatriciana on the Fly

Amatriciana on the Fly
David Malosh for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Simon Andrews. Prop Stylist: Paige Hicks.
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This is a no-recipe recipe, a recipe without an ingredients list or steps. It invites you to improvise in the kitchen.

Here’s a half-hour challenge that’s no challenge at all. Set a large pot of salted water on the stove, over high heat. In a pan, sauté chopped bacon — slab bacon, if you can get it — in a glug or two of olive oil until it’s crisp. Remove the bacon and add chopped onion to the fat, cooking until it’s soft and fragrant. Figure the equivalent of a slice of bacon and half an onion per person.

Meanwhile, boil water for enough pasta to feed your crowd, and cook it until it is just shy of tender. While it cooks, add some canned chopped tomatoes and the cooked bacon to the onions, and stir it to make a sauce. Drain the pasta, then toss it with a knob of butter, and add the pasta to the sauce. Slide all that into a warm serving bowl, then top with grated pecorino. A scattering of chopped parsley is never going to be a bad idea here, but you can omit it if the clock’s ticking. Serve with red-pepper flakes and extra cheese on the side.

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For God's sake - to each his own! Cook your pasta the way YOU like it. I prefer my pasta a bit soft. That way there is a thicker starch coating on it that helps thinner sauces adhere. Pasta - left unflavored in the making - has little to no flavor of its own. After all it's just boiled flour and egg with maybe a bit of oil.

This is very close to the way I've always made this. Pancetta is preferable, guanciale fantastic as well. Bacon adds a smoky note that is interesting. I prefer to add the crushed red pepper while the pork is rendering. It delights in that fat. Simple sauce that brings great flavor.

What? No garlic? What's the matter with you??? Throw a bunch of thinly sliced garlic cloves in when the onions are done and saute about 30 seconds until fragrant.

Better to move the pasta to the sauce a bit short of al dente, add a bit of pasta water, turn heat to medium and toss like a salad over the heat. 20 times the Italians say, at least in my village.

Only had a large can of tomatoes in the pantry so I made way too much sauce for two people. Happy “problem”!!! The next day, dinner was eggs poached in this sauce over a nice piece of crusty bread slathered with roasted garlic. Try this delicious recipe and make enough for leftover sauce!!

The butter is used as a means to prevent the noddles from sticking together. You could also use olive oil. It’s not ideal to mix butter into the pasta sauce. It can act like a separator, a diffuser to the sauce.

Love this recipe without the recipe. Did not add any oil to cook bacon and added Chile flakes to sauce. Also served broccoli rabe with its bitterness as a side to compliment the sweetness of the tomatoes. What a fabulous meal. Oh, of course with a Negroni!

This is a dish always saved for late summer garden ripe tomatoes. With guanciale and bucatini and pecorino when possible,

And I agree — bucatini has the best bite, and Pecorino Romano gives the salty edge this needs.

I use pre-diced pancetta from the supermarket deli counter that I keep in the freezer. Also I slice the onions medium thick, and add a container of diced tomatoes or crushed tomatoes (try the Pomi cartons) as well as a few shakes of dried red pepper flakes for spiciness. I toss the pasta (often bucatinni) in the sauce and add a knob of butter as well as some Pecorino Romano cheese, with more at the table. Delicious and a go-to pasta.

While I know it is not always available, when it is, nothing beats guanciale instead of bacon or pancetta in a true Amatriciana.

For God’s sake, cook pasta al dente — to the tooth— rather than overcooking the flavor out of it. I’m surprised so many pasta packages offer two cooking temperatures, al dente and bland. So many people ruin a good pasta dish this way.

Traditionally, it is made with guanciale di maiale (pork jaw) and some heat of your preference and served over pici pasta. Unfortunately, the city for with it is named, Amatrice was destroyed in one of the more recent earthquakes.

I second this suggestion! Guanciale adds a savoriness that bacon or pancetta miss.

I would go with Mark Bitman's Amatriciana which is just as fast, easy and delicious, is more a recipe. Instead of bacon I always use Pancetta, greater smokey flavor IMO. I hardly would call this a no-recipe recipe ... it does require a bit of time but well worth the effort for a satisfying meal on a busy day. One of my loves!

I really like this recipe using a can of fire roasted crushed tomatoes. It plays nicely with the smokiness of the bacon! I like to cook the bacon on its own first and then take it out shortly before it starts to crisp. That way I can cook the onions longer so they soften up very well and the bacon doesn't overcook.

Very tasty but next time I would add a pinch of chili flakes to give it a bit of heat.

Italian pasta dates to the ancient Etruscans, who lived throughout the Umbrian region of Amatrice, and was enjoyed by Romans. The story of Marco Polo bringing pasta from China is false; nor did it come from the Mongols, who never made it to Italy. Garlic is never used in this dish as Italians generally don’t mix onions and garlic. Less is more.

So good. Bacon, onion, a can of Trader Joe’s fire roasted tomatoes, and a splash of pasta water later (plus some capellini) made for an extremely easy dish that my husband seemed “something you’d eat in a restaurant.” Win!

Doubled the bacon, but it was probably a tad too much. Could have gone with a bit less onion or more finely chopped. But very easy and tasty with some pantry staples.

I live in a god-forsaken area of West Virginia where even prosciutto isn’t available. For the twenty years before this I lived in LA, Miami, and New York. Count your luck stars that you have options. I’ll take the bacon for now. Only thing I can get that I’d use instead is nduja, which I don’t have right now. At least it’s stable until it gets to my home. Be grateful for the luxuries you have!

For one pound of pasta I used four pieces of bacon, 1 large onion, and one 28 ounce can of whole peeled tomatoes broken up a bit. Added 4 cloves of garlic near end of onion cooking time and cooked for about 1 minute. Seasoned sauce with about 1.5 tsp salt, pepper, and 1/2 tablespoon sugar.

Here in Rome we would never put garlic, butter, parsley or hot pepper flakes in this dish. In response to other comments, dried pasta has no eggs and certainly no olive oil--just semolina flour and water; contrary to having "no taste," it is the protagonist of the dish. And no, Italians did not get pasta from Asia, that's a canard proven wrong by food historians.

IMO Guanciale is so much better than bacon or pancetta -- better fatty fat and super yumza. Such a delicious, simple, and perfect however you want to make it.

a glug or two of olive oil and bacon fat over high heat caused an almighty painful oil splash when i threw the onion in... skip the oil!!

Short-cut: I use Rao’s marinara. I’ll do the pancetta/bacon, then let it dry. I’ll leave a little bit of oil and add some finely cut scallion. Once slightly browned I had the jar of Rao’s, add the pork back…and then simmer, adding red pepper flakes for spicy and a few more glugs of olive oil. The sauce will get darkish red and streaky with oil. That’s when it’s ready!

Besides not saving any time, substituting a jar of processed sauce (which includes unwanted ingredients like basil, oregano and garlic) for a can of tomatoes will muddle the simple, direct flavor of this classic Roman dish.

When I was a 5yo in Cape Town 65 years ago, we lived next door to an Italian family. From the mama, my mom learned to make spaghetti, which she continued to serve to our growing family once a week thereafter - long after leaving C Town and that family. For years, it was the only pasta dish we knew (other than mac & cheese), and when I started cooking, it was mine too (with variations). It wasn't until decades later that I realised my mom's regular pasta had a name - Amatriciana.

Omg... Amatriciana is already fast. You can eat this thing or a real amatriciana with a tiny little effort. Skip the onions or one of us will die. Call it the way you want, but let's keep amatriciana for the real deal. Ciao

Huge hit with whole family. Used bacon (sorry) and shallots and threw a can of those Bianco tomatoes in the pan which were smashed up with a wooden spoon. I never have pecorino, not sure why, so I topped with that 24 month Parmesan you can find at BJ’s (basically the only thing I buy there). This dish is now happily Part of the Rotation

On the fly? this is the only way to make a matriciana, except that guanciale is the preferred meat. Add salt after you add the tomatoes and cook them down till they taste right, not just out of the can; Italians say the tomatoes must make the little eye, ie cook till there are tiny bubbling craters on the surface. All easily done in the time it takes to fill a big pot, bring it to a boil, and cook the pasta. Lots of black pepper. Two more words: never garlic.

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