Eastern North Carolina Fish Stew

Eastern North Carolina Fish Stew
Dillon Deaton for The New York Times
Total Time
1 hour
Rating
4(146)
Notes
Read community notes

This quick-cooking fish stew, with its raft of eggs and no-stir preparation method, is specific to eastern North Carolina. Church fund-raisers and family gatherings center on the stew, where traditionally men would layer chunks of fish with bones and skin, thinly sliced potatoes, onions and spices in a caldron and stand around the fire watching it cook. About five minutes before it was done, someone would crack an egg for each guest into the tomato-rich broth. Eggs were a cheap filler and a way to stretch the stew to provide enough protein for a crowd, along with fish like striped bass or flounder from North Carolina’s Atlantic shore. Vivian Howard, who left New York to open Chef & the Farmer, a restaurant in Kinston, N.C., offers this version for home cooks. The key is not stirring it at all, and watching the heat so the bottom doesn’t scorch. Serve it with a couple of slices of squishy white bread (Sunbeam is traditional), which act as delicious sponges for the broth. —Kim Severson

Featured in: Vivian Howard, a TV Chef, Offers Hope for Her Rural Hometown

  • or to save this recipe.

  • Subscriber benefit: give recipes to anyone
    As a subscriber, you have 10 gift recipes to give each month. Anyone can view them - even nonsubscribers. Learn more.
  • Print Options


Advertisement


Ingredients

Yield:12 servings
  • 1pound sliced smoked bacon
  • 16-ounce can tomato paste
  • 3pounds white or red potatoes, peeled and sliced into ¼-inch rounds
  • 2pounds yellow onions, peeled, halved and cut into ¼-inch slices
  • 6garlic cloves, thinly sliced
  • 3pounds fish steaks (about 6 steaks) around 1-inch thick, with bones and skin intact (striped bass, salmon, red drum, rockfish or sheepshead are good options)
  • tablespoons kosher salt, plus more to taste
  • teaspoons chile flakes
  • 3bay leaves
  • 12eggs
  • 1loaf white bread (optional)
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (12 servings)

532 calories; 23 grams fat; 7 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 9 grams monounsaturated fat; 5 grams polyunsaturated fat; 44 grams carbohydrates; 5 grams dietary fiber; 9 grams sugars; 38 grams protein; 1003 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

Powered by

Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Cut the bacon slices into 1-inch squares. Brown them in the bottom of a 10-to-12-quart stockpot over medium heat. Once bacon is crisp, remove it and reserve, leaving the bacon fat in the pot. Whisk the tomato paste into the fat, making sure you scrape up all the brown bits left from browning the bacon.

  2. Step 2

    Turn the heat off and begin layering the ingredients in the stockpot. Start with a layer of potatoes, followed by a layer of onions and garlic, followed by a layer of fish. Top the fish with roughly a third of the salt, a third of the chile flakes and 1 bay leaf. Repeat this layering process two more times.

  3. Step 3

    Fill the pot with enough cool water to just barely reach the top of the fish. (If there’s a little fish peeking out over the top, that’s O.K. — better than if it’s swimming in water.) Cover the pot with a tightfitting lid and slowly bring to a boil over medium-high heat. (Throughout the cooking, resist the urge to stir.) Once it starts to boil, reduce heat and let it cook, covered, at a high simmer for about 15 minutes. Check the potatoes for doneness. They should be barely tender, not falling apart.

  4. Step 4

    Use a large spoon to remove the fat from the surface of the soup, and discard. Taste the broth and add more salt if needed. Then, with the stew at a good simmer, add the eggs one by one in a single layer over the top. (Crack each egg into a small cup before dropping it in.) Cook the eggs for 5 minutes until they are lightly set.

  5. Step 5

    As soon as the eggs are lightly set, use a large ladle to portion out the stew. A proper serving is at least half a fish steak, some potatoes, some onions and an egg swimming in broth. Shower each bowl with bacon, and serve immediately with a piece or two of bread, if desired.

Ratings

4 out of 5
146 user ratings
Your rating

or to rate this recipe.

Have you cooked this?

or to mark this recipe as cooked.

Private Notes

Leave a Private Note on this recipe and see it here.

Cooking Notes

I'm 82, born and raised in Kinston and graduated from Grainger High School, and my Daddy made that fish stew at least once a month all his life. As did several uncles who lived in Hugo and Snow Hill. I loved it and when my cousins get together we all want fish stew like our Daddies made. Good eatin' !!!

I grew up in Greenville, NC, which is 30 miles from Kinston. We had a very similar fish stew all the time because rockfish, the real name for "striped bass," was plentiful in local tidal waters. We made it the same way but without the tomato paste. I imagine that the addition of tomato in some form might improve it. It would certainly make it look more appetizing.

Choose another recipe, Amanda.

Very satisfying stew. During shad season a portion of shad roe was substituted for or added to egg. Needed to cook 10 more minutes.

Betty from VT.....I also grew up in Kinston and ate a fabulous fish stew at neighborhood cook outs, where it was cooked over a fire in a cast iron pot on a tripod ......remember it being so good. Will be trying this over a fire pit in Guilford VT this summer. Hope it is as good as what I recall.

Smoked salmon sauteed in a little olive oil is a good swap for bacon. Use thick pacific smoked salmon, skin removed and crumbled, not lox.

in oil, Try frying two shallots until crisp. then add diced sun dried tomatoes and fry more. Generously add smoked paprika. Two or more table spoons of table Parmesan cheese. You got veggie bacon

Use filets or if using whole fish with larger bones, like a rock fish... alot/some will just settle at the bottom of the pot.

Many years ago now after a terrible day of fishing on the west coast of Florida someone just gave us a red drum they had caught in a nearby boat. I found a similar recipe and made this dish and it was one of the most memorable dishes I have ever cooked. Well worth the effort. And a testament to a delightful region where we had docked our sailboat in the past.

I just watched Cooks Country which made this dish. They used cod without skin or bones.

I've made this two times and will make a third time later today for dinner, and each time I cut the recipe by two thirds - a pound of potatoes and a pound of fish, as well as other ingredients cut by two thirds - because I was making it for just my spouse and me. Other than that I followed the recipe exactly. The result could feed four. It turned out perfect both times, and I expect to be again tonight. Hard to believe it comes to such a savory, hearty finish with such a simple preparation.

I grew up in Kinston and remember a fish stew for a couple of years now. I tried to make it from memory, but, it just wasn't the same. Thanks for the recipe, off to get the ingredients; off to get them and make the stew today.

I've made this two times and will make a third time later today for dinner, and each time I cut the recipe by two thirds - a pound of potatoes and a pound of fish, as well as other ingredients cut by two thirds - because I was making it for just my spouse and me. Other than that I followed the recipe exactly. The result could feed four. It turned out perfect both times, and I expect to be again tonight. Hard to believe it comes to such a savory, hearty finish with such a simple preparation.

I grew up in Kinston and remember a fish stew for a couple of years now. I tried to make it from memory, but, it just wasn't the same. Thanks for the recipe, off to get the ingredients; off to get them and make the stew today.

I'm going to try this, because the flavors look intriguing. But, unfortunately, I live in central Illinois, and my access to fish steaks is limited. I'll use the thickest fillets I can find, but am expecting the fish to flake rather than remain intact as in the photo. I'm come up with a new name for the result.

Many years ago now after a terrible day of fishing on the west coast of Florida someone just gave us a red drum they had caught in a nearby boat. I found a similar recipe and made this dish and it was one of the most memorable dishes I have ever cooked. Well worth the effort. And a testament to a delightful region where we had docked our sailboat in the past.

Any suggestions for making this without bacon?

Smoked salmon sauteed in a little olive oil is a good swap for bacon. Use thick pacific smoked salmon, skin removed and crumbled, not lox.

Choose another recipe, Amanda.

in oil, Try frying two shallots until crisp. then add diced sun dried tomatoes and fry more. Generously add smoked paprika. Two or more table spoons of table Parmesan cheese. You got veggie bacon

This looks both delicious and intimidating. The amount is daunting, but I can figure that out. What I don’t like (and neither does my husband), is the fish bones. I imagine they add flavor, but wouldn’t a fish stock or broth be as effective? Or even clam juice, or seafood broth. Who needs fish ones in their soup?

I just watched Cooks Country which made this dish. They used cod without skin or bones.

Very satisfying stew. During shad season a portion of shad roe was substituted for or added to egg. Needed to cook 10 more minutes.

Betty from VT.....I also grew up in Kinston and ate a fabulous fish stew at neighborhood cook outs, where it was cooked over a fire in a cast iron pot on a tripod ......remember it being so good. Will be trying this over a fire pit in Guilford VT this summer. Hope it is as good as what I recall.

Any suggestions on making this without fishbones for those of us who prefer to not be vigilant while we eat? I was thinking thick fillets of whatever fish I can find at the market.

Use filets or if using whole fish with larger bones, like a rock fish... alot/some will just settle at the bottom of the pot.

I grew up in Greenville, NC, which is 30 miles from Kinston. We had a very similar fish stew all the time because rockfish, the real name for "striped bass," was plentiful in local tidal waters. We made it the same way but without the tomato paste. I imagine that the addition of tomato in some form might improve it. It would certainly make it look more appetizing.

Private notes are only visible to you.

Credits

Adapted from "Deep Run Roots" by Vivian Howard (Little, Brown, 2016)

Advertisement

or to save this recipe.