Risotto Milanese With Parmesan Stock

Risotto Milanese With Parmesan Stock
Andrew Scrivani for The New York Times
Total Time
30 minutes
Rating
4(233)
Notes
Read community notes

Hang on to those Parmesan rinds because they make excellent stock. Simmer them in water for a couple of hours with some aromatics, then strain and chill the liquid. I recommend that you make it a day ahead so you can remove the waxy layer of fat that settles at the top once the stock has chilled.

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Ingredients

Yield:4 to 6 servings

    For the Broth

    • 12ounces Parmesan rinds
    • 1bay leaf
    • 2sprigs thyme
    • 3sprigs parsley
    • 3garlic cloves, crushed
    • Salt

    For the Risotto

    • 6 to 7cups Parmesan broth, as needed
    • ½teaspoon saffron threads
    • 2tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
    • ½cup finely chopped onion
    • Salt
    • cups Arborio or Carnaroli rice
    • ½cup dry white wine
    • Black pepper
    • 1tablespoon butter
    • cup freshly grated Parmesan
Ingredient Substitution Guide
Nutritional analysis per serving (6 servings)

521 calories; 24 grams fat; 13 grams saturated fat; 0 grams trans fat; 9 grams monounsaturated fat; 1 gram polyunsaturated fat; 45 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams dietary fiber; 1 gram sugars; 27 grams protein; 942 milligrams sodium

Note: The information shown is Edamam’s estimate based on available ingredients and preparation. It should not be considered a substitute for a professional nutritionist’s advice.

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Preparation

  1. Step 1

    Make stock: Place Parmesan rinds, bay leaf and thyme in a soup pot or large heavy saucepan and add 3 quarts water. Bring to a simmer. Skim off foam, cover partly and simmer 1 hour over very low heat. Add parsley and garlic cloves and continue to simmer 30 minutes, partly covered. Uncover, add salt to taste, and simmer another 30 minutes.

  2. Step 2

    Line a strainer with cheesecloth and place over a large bowl. Strain stock into bowl. Refrigerate it, preferably overnight. Before reheating, remove fat from top and discard. You should have about 2 quarts broth.

  3. Step 3

    Pour broth into a saucepan and bring to a simmer. Make sure that it is well seasoned but not overly seasoned, as it will reduce and become saltier. Put saffron in a small bowl and cover with 1 tablespoon hot water.

  4. Step 4

    Heat olive oil over medium heat in a wide heavy skillet or saucepan. Add onion and a generous pinch of salt and cook until onion is just tender, about 3 minutes. Do not brown. Add rice and stir just until grains begin to crackle, 1 to 2 minutes. Add wine and cook, stirring, until it has been absorbed.

  5. Step 5

    Begin adding simmering broth, a couple of ladles at a time. Add saffron with soaking water with first addition of broth. Broth should just cover the rice and should be bubbling. Stir often and vigorously. When broth has just about evaporated, add another ladle or 2 to just cover rice. Continue to cook in this way until rice is aldente, about 20 to 25 minutes. Add a little pepper, taste and adjust seasoning.

  6. Step 6

    Add another ladleful of broth to the rice. Stir in butter and Parmesan and remove from heat. Mixture should be creamy. Serve right away.

Ratings

4 out of 5
233 user ratings
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Cooking Notes

Not to be to particular, but a Risotto alla Milanese is not meant to be a vegetarian dish..... Is meant to accompany Veal Ossobuco alla Milanese and there is supposed to be bone marrow in the base of the risotto and the broth is supposed to be beef. No olive oil should go in a risotto since you are supposed to add butter and Parmesan at the end to make it creamy. If you cannot use wine just leave it out all together. Let's try not to butcher Italian cooking to much....

The alcohol will be totally evaporated if you simmer the rice until it is dry before adding stock, or just use more stock and forget about the wine.

Just omit the wine and use more stock. If it tastes a little flat at the finish, add a small amount of lemon juice (wine adds acidity).

The olive oil is only used for the onions (or shallots, as is my preference) and to get the rice started, not at the end. I wonder if that was unclear to the commenter, as olive oil (or an olive oil and butter combination) is standard for this step in traditional Italian risotto recipes - don't skip it! And if you want meat, add it. If you don't, leave it out. It will still be a lovely Italian dish either way.

When I don't have wine at hand, I often use a little apple- or white wine vinegar instead.

I once had to substitute for red wine in a recipe for a street kitchen charity. I found an online suggestion of 1/2 balsamic vinegar and half grape juice. After cooking with other flavors, the difference in a taste test was virtually undetectable. You might try half white balsamic and half white grape juice to equal the 1/2 cup of wine in the recipe. Of course the flavor wouldn't be as 'dry' as a dry white wine. Maybe cut back the amount a little.

You might be forgiven for adding olive oil to a risotto ONLY if it was a seafood one. Butter AND Parmigiano are added together at the end because they emulsify with the starch from the rice and help make your risotto creamy as it should be. Oil does not behave like this and its flavour profile is off most of the times (unless, as I said, you're cooking with seafood or fish).

We pretend similarly, Heidi, but you are right: Parmesan is made with rennet, although you can find vegetarian versions. We've edited the recipe description accordingly.

We added some pancetta—about 1/8 lb. for half recipe, chopped very fine. Making it with Parmesan broth was so delicious! We had some Arborio and some Carolina gold rice and Warren cooked it perfectly al dente. Yum!

Very good! Had to use callebarro rice but it works very well

In metrics I'm from Japan so following weights might not correct. So please keep in your mind that. For the broth 340 grams Parmesan rind 1 bay leaf 2 springs thyme 3 springs parsley 3 garlic cloves salt For the risotto 1420-1650ml Parmesan broth, as needed 5 grams saffron thereadss 26.6 grams extra-virgin olive oil 26 grams finely chopped onion Salt 278 grams Arborio or Carnaroli rice 118 grams dry white wine Black pepper 237 grams butter 78.3 grams freshly grated Parmesan

Used part Gruyere/part Parmesan rinds because that’s what was on hand. Made broth the day before. Waxy layer removed. Pan was a mess but I had never tried Parmesan Broth- so who gets distracted by that in a first try? 4 oz of pancetta (already cooked and drained) gave some depth. Wish I had lightened up a tad on the salt. This needs a lot of cracked pepper. It was outstanding and we two devoured every forkful!

Part of kitchen purge: Parmesan rinds and Arborio rice. Made as written, well received and thoroughly enjoyed. Served with grilled sausage and grilled romaine (NYT).

Such a great recipe but required way more broth than suggested. We also didn’t have safron but paprika sounded good and was an excellent flavor!

I thought this was just average. I had high hopes for the Parmesan stock but overall just an average dish. David Tanis’ tomato risotto is the only one that has really blown my hair back. Turning the leftovers into risotto balls with fingers crossed for a better result.

Do stir the broth while you make it, the rinds become gooey and stick to your pot if you do not move them occasionally. Made the broth in a long, narrow pot so I found out the hard way :)

I had a problem with this but maybe my fault. I had some shrimp/chicken stock to use from the freezer and added rinds to it. After a couple hours it just had a bad off flavor. I tossed it. I don't think I will ever use parm rinds again to make a stock.

I only had 4 oz. of rinds so I adjusted the stock recipe. I also used only 1 cup of rice. I adjusted the amount of liquid to 4 cups, using the cup or so of parmesan broth and supplementing with low sodium chicken broth. The parmesan flavor came through perfectly and the dish was delicious! One caution: don't add any salt until the end of cooking - the broth cooks down as you add it to the rice and it's seasoned from the cheese rinds. The butter adds richness and cuts the saltiness.

We added some pancetta—about 1/8 lb. for half recipe, chopped very fine. Making it with Parmesan broth was so delicious! We had some Arborio and some Carolina gold rice and Warren cooked it perfectly al dente. Yum!

Isn't Parmesan made with rennet?
(I often pretend I don't know this, so I can include it in my otherwise vegetarian cooking.)

We pretend similarly, Heidi, but you are right: Parmesan is made with rennet, although you can find vegetarian versions. We've edited the recipe description accordingly.

Made the broth, splashed it in a pot of cranberry beans simmering alongside white chard, onions, and garlic; enriched the sauce with olive oil; and used it to dress some pasta. Beans so good to eat with a spoon, saved a good portion. Delicious!

This is excellent! Making the Parmesan Broth is worth the time it takes.

Not to be to particular, but a Risotto alla Milanese is not meant to be a vegetarian dish..... Is meant to accompany Veal Ossobuco alla Milanese and there is supposed to be bone marrow in the base of the risotto and the broth is supposed to be beef. No olive oil should go in a risotto since you are supposed to add butter and Parmesan at the end to make it creamy. If you cannot use wine just leave it out all together. Let's try not to butcher Italian cooking to much....

Is there an Italian cooking website you would recommend to me OR an Italian cookbook? Thank you.

The olive oil is only used for the onions (or shallots, as is my preference) and to get the rice started, not at the end. I wonder if that was unclear to the commenter, as olive oil (or an olive oil and butter combination) is standard for this step in traditional Italian risotto recipes - don't skip it! And if you want meat, add it. If you don't, leave it out. It will still be a lovely Italian dish either way.

I once had to substitute for red wine in a recipe for a street kitchen charity. I found an online suggestion of 1/2 balsamic vinegar and half grape juice. After cooking with other flavors, the difference in a taste test was virtually undetectable. You might try half white balsamic and half white grape juice to equal the 1/2 cup of wine in the recipe. Of course the flavor wouldn't be as 'dry' as a dry white wine. Maybe cut back the amount a little.

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