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3 Thanksgiving Potato Dishes That Are Better Than Mashed
With a bigger, fluffier take on hash browns, a lighter gratin and a twist on twice-baked, Claire Saffitz makes the holiday staple shine in new ways.
![Eight halves of potatoes are photographed from above. They’re been piped with swirls of mashed potatoes and dusted with paprika. They sit in a white rimmed plate against a grey-green background.](https://static01.nyt.com/images/2022/11/16/dining/10potatoes1/merlin_214834056_bd4fb849-40e7-48a0-ac8f-d133207a4c28-articleLarge.jpg?quality=75&auto=webp&disable=upscale)
Because mashed potatoes are a nonnegotiable part of my family’s Thanksgiving meal, I argue year after year that we do not need stuffing on the table. Potatoes, I believe, render stuffing superfluous. Inevitably, I end up making stuffing anyway, but my reasoning stands. On a holiday when real estate — stomach, oven and table — is at a premium, hard choices about carbohydrates must be made.
Unlike stuffing, potatoes mingle with and enhance all of the other foods present. But what’s most miraculous about potatoes is how they can take on the dual textures of creamy and crispy. Mashed potatoes might be a classic Thanksgiving side, but the dish’s one-note consistency doesn’t take advantage of the potato’s full potential.
These alternatives, on the other hand, show off its versatility.
The first is pommes boulangère, a French classic. Like a less-rich gratin, it’s made with chicken (or turkey) stock instead of cream, and flavored with caramelized onions and thyme, making it a natural fit on the Thanksgiving table. As the casserole bakes, the potatoes slowly absorb the stock, becoming creamy and soft, while the top layer browns and crisps. This version calls for fingerling potatoes, which don’t require peeling and slice into uniform rounds, but you could use small red-skinned potatoes or Yukon golds. Cutting the potatoes thinly and evenly is key, so use a mandoline if you have one, but be cautious and stop just before the very end.
Using homemade stock in a recipe can feel fussy, but it’s worth making an exception for Thanksgiving. While store-bought stock is an option, homemade contains more gelatin, which lends overall better flavor and texture, and helps bind the potatoes so the final dish holds together.
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