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The World Through a Lens

Six Days Afloat in the Everglades

After a storm disrupted plans for a 99-mile paddling trek, a Times journalist’s time on the water took a more reflective turn. Come look and listen alongside him.

From a distance, the mouth of the creek was indistinguishable from the thick tangle of mangroves that concealed it — as if the narrow waterway were only willing to reveal itself to those who knew to look.

We approached attentively, unhurriedly, scanning the banks for alligators and wading birds. Twenty feet in front of us, a white ibis, hunting in the shallows with its long curved bill, squawked and took flight, fluttering out of sight.

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A white ibis, startled by our approach, takes to the sky.
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The arching roots of a red mangrove. The trees provide key nursery habitats to fish and crustaceans, sequester vast amounts of carbon and help protect the coastline from erosion and flood damage during hurricanes and other storms.
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My sister, Emelia Hiltner, and a friend, Darius Nabors, glide through a tunnel of trees on Gopher Key Creek.

A few minutes later, we found ourselves under a canopy of overarching branches. With the tide ever so slightly in our favor, I lifted my paddle and felt my kayak being pulled gently along, the mangroves and their many inhabitants — most of them hidden — scrolling past my periphery.

I closed my eyes to focus on the soundscape. The distant splash of a fish leaping from the water. The slow crescendo of a gust of wind passing through the trees. Silence.

Kissimmee River

West

Palm

Beach

Lake

Okeechobee

75

Fort Myers

95

florida

TEN THOUSAND

ISLANDS

Everglades City

Miami

Detail area, below

Everglades

National

Park

EVERGLADES

WILDERNESS

WATERWAY

Flamingo

Gulf of Mexico

Key Largo

40 miles

2 miles

Sweetwater Chickee

Everglades National Park

Watson’s Place

Chatham River

Darwin’s Place

Pavilion KEY

Gopher Key Creek

MORMON KEY

Kissimmee River

West

Palm

Beach

Lake

Okeechobee

75

Fort Myers

95

florida

TEN THOUSAND

ISLANDS

Everglades City

Miami

Detail area, below

Everglades

National

Park

EVERGLADES

WILDERNESS

WATERWAY

Flamingo

Gulf of Mexico

Key Largo

40 miles

2 miles

Sweetwater Chickee

Everglades National Park

Watson’s Place

Chatham River

Darwin’s Place

Pavilion KEY

Gopher Key Creek

MORMON KEY

By The New York Times


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