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A Tibetan man walks past prayer wheels at the Derge Parkhang in eastern Tibet. The printing house, founded in 1729, is one of the most important repositories of Tibetan Buddhist scriptures in the world.

The World Through a Lens

Scattered Among the Himalaya, Glimpses of a Changing Tibet

An array of forces, including political suppression and the ubiquity of the internet, have made elements of traditional Tibetan lifestyles increasingly challenging.

I was sitting inside the dark, yak-hair tent of a nomad family in Ladakh, in the Indian Himalaya. Outside, some scruffy sheep searched for greenery among the cold and barren moonscape, and large raptors circled in the thermals. As we huddled around the hearth, the old man handed me a small glass of salty, yak-butter tea.

“There were wolves here two nights ago,” he told me through a translator. “This time I chased them away, but they will come back again and try and get at my sheep. It’s happening more and more.”

“Everything about being a herder is getting more difficult,” he added. “Maybe my sons won’t want to continue this life. My wife and I might be among the last of the nomads here.”

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The Swayambhunath temple, in Kathmandu, Nepal’s capital. The area around Swayambhunath is home to many exiled Tibetans who fled in the wake of a failed uprising in 1959.

It was a story I’d heard time and again across the Himalaya and the Tibetan plateau. Whether because of climatic changes, the call of a more comfortable life in the cities, political repression or the demands of education, life is changing fast for the people of Tibet and the surrounding Himalayan regions.

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The Potala Palace in Lhasa, Tibet’s traditional capital, contains more than 1,000 rooms and 10,000 shrines.

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