How to Make the Most of Potatoes

Cheap, nourishing, eminently available and fuss-free, the humble potato is just the thing for these days and weeks of stay-at-home, nearly nonstop cooking.

Potatoes have always had mass appeal. And I find them beyond appealing, really. How deep is my love for potatoes? The mere mention of them makes my pulse race, starts me salivating, makes my mouth water and drool.

Potatoes are undeniably delicious, and there are so many ways to prepare them — steamed, boiled, baked, mashed, smashed, roasted or fried. Simply slathered with butter or anointed with olive oil, the only seasoning required is a little salt. But a sprinkling of black pepper from the mill or a dab of sour cream or a bit of chopped parsley, green onion or chives improves the experience for not much extra effort.

These basic preparations reveal but the iceberg’s tip. There are an endless number of potato soups, pancakes, stews, stuffings, soufflés. Gratins, gnocchi, salads, samosas, pies. Every culture has a potato repertoire, which means a potato lover’s opportunities are without boundary.

Under the best circumstances, you can count on tender new potatoes in the spring and summer. Red-skinned boilers, earthy russets, yellow-fleshed Yukon, purple Peruvians and diminutive fingerlings are normally obtainable throughout the year. For the recipes that follow, medium-sized yellow potatoes are ideal, with russets as a second choice.

These dishes may be considered first course, main course or side. Personally, I relish the opportunity to make a meal of potatoes only.