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On the Runway

The Politics of Dress at the State of the Union

Congresswomen in white. Melania Trump in Dolce & Gabbana. Can anyone opt out of fashion messaging any more?

Melania Trump, center, at the State of the Union address in the House Chamber of the Capitol on Tuesday.Credit...Doug Mills/The New York Times

How much of an impact does a fashion statement have the second (or third) time around?

Last year at the State of the Union address, a majority of the women of the Democratic Congressional Caucus wore white — white suits, white dresses, white shirts, white jumpsuits — as a nod to the suffragists, to women’s rights, as a silent riposte to President Trump and as a message to the electorate about their own unity. This year, many of them did it again.

On the podium, Speaker Nancy Pelosi wore a white pantsuit with her dagger-like Speaker’s Mace pin on her lapel. Before the event, the women had posed en masse:

In the House of Representatives chamber, they sat as a visible block: an island of white in a sea of largely dark suits and the occasional bright blue or red jacket.

It was not as startling or as striking as it was last time — at this point, post-Hillary Clinton candidacy, the white suit has become a political uniform of its own, on par with Mr. Trump’s navy suit and red tie (which he also wore Tuesday evening). The color’s meaning, and signifier as a form of female empowerment and protest at major public moments, has been codified. We are even starting to expect it.

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Many female members of Congress wore white at the State of the Union address on Tuesday.Credit...Erin Schaff/The New York Times

But that doesn’t mean it was not an effective tactic. In a moment where the only person speaking is the president, but millions outside the chamber are watching, it allowed those members of Congress to have a say. The clothes become a proxy for the point.


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