Cabbage and Potato Gratin Makes a Rich Vegetarian Meal

“Why is this sweet?” a friend of mine asked as he spooned a second helping of cabbage and potato gratin onto his plate.

That’s what happens when you give cabbage a long-enough time in the oven (or in a frying pan): It caramelizes. Like slow-cooked onions, slow-cooked cabbage takes on color, becoming meltingly tender and sweet.

I hadn’t even considered this bonus when I set out to make a cabbage gratin. I was only thinking about how delicious a cabbage gratin that resembled a potato gratin would be. I decided to toss the cabbage with milk and a little crème fraîche, as well as some Gruyère and Parmesan, and to bake the casserole until most of the liquid was absorbed and the top and sides browned (gratinéed).

But cabbage doesn’t have the same kind of power to absorb liquid that potatoes have. Quite the contrary: The cabbage releases water as it cooks. So I threw in some sliced potatoes (one part potatoes, two parts cabbage) so that I wouldn’t end up with a watery casserole.

There was still a little bit of juice that remained in the baking dish after the gratin sat for about 10 minutes, but it didn’t detract from the dish, which I served with a slotted spoon. It is incredibly comforting, with sweet and savory overtones.

And because of the bulk of the potatoes, this gratin makes a satisfying vegetarian main dish, though it certainly works just as well as a side.

Recipe: Cabbage and Potato Gratin