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Fashion Review

Velvet Ropes, Inclusion and Kanye West in Paris

Who gets to be part of the gang? Who gets pushed out? Celine, Comme des Garçons and Balmain offer different answers.

Celine, fall 2020Credit...Valerio Mezzanotti for The New York Times

PARIS — The weekend began in the gilded salons of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, a grand mid-19th-century building on the banks of the Seine where the foundation of the European Union was laid and where Friday night Diane von Furstenberg received the honor of the Chevalier de Legion d’Honneur from Christine Lagarde, president of the European Central Bank, in recognition of Ms. von Furstenberg’s services to women and to the refurbishment of the Statue of Liberty. Symbol of freedom, tolerance, welcome, you know.

It ended on the peeling stage of the Bouffes du Nord theater, as Kanye West and 120 gospel singers brought Mr. West’s Sunday Service to the 10th Arrondissement, and a whole lot of jaded fashion folk to their feet, shouting and clapping in unison. (Mr. West is also going to have a Yeezy presentation Monday evening.)

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One hundred and twenty gospel singers brought music to Kanye West’s Sunday Service in Paris.Credit...Valerio Mezzanotti for The New York Times
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At the Bouffes du Nord theater, a lot of fashion people at the Sunday Service were on their feet.Credit...Valerio Mezzanotti for The New York Times

Almost no one at either event wore a face mask, but in between, the Paris half-marathon was canceled and visiting editors started making plans to go home early. This is where we are. Everyone teetering between solidarity and isolation. Not just because of viruses.

Hedi Slimane held his Celine show, as he always does, in a giant black box in the shadow of the Invalides, where Napoleon is buried: more than 100 iterations of pipe cleaner pants and lounge lizard jackets; ruffled silk blouses and bourgeois culottes; buttoned-up little day dresses and golden gypsy frocks, one after the other after the other in a relentless parade of fantasy 1970s glam rock-and-jolie-madame-toned conformity for men and women (the looks are unisex).


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