Asparagus: Spring’s Most Versatile Vegetable

Fresh asparagus is available in greenmarkets in the East and Midwest through the end of June. But here in California, the season began a few months ago — a great thing, as this is a vegetable I never tire of. There’s a lot you can do with asparagus besides just eating it unadorned, steamed for five minutes or — if you’ve got nice, fat stalks — roasted. Delicate, thin stalks go wonderfully with eggs, either stirred into scrambled eggs or tossed with a vinaigrette and finely chopped hard-boiled eggs. I love to toss asparagus with pasta, and I often use it in soups. Children seem to like it, too. If the family table has seen too much broccoli, asparagus makes a fine alternative.

When cooking asparagus, you must first break off the tough stem ends by bending the stalk. Save and simmer the ends to make a delicious broth. (In traditional Indian and Chinese medicine, the ends are commended for their diuretic properties and used to “strengthen” the reproductive system.)

The tender, edible part of this lovely plant is an excellent source of vitamin K, folate, vitamin C and vitamin A, as well as a very good source of a number of other nutrients, including tryptophan, B vitamins, manganese, dietary fiber, phosphorus and potassium. All this comes in a very low-calorie package: there are about 40 calories in a cup of cooked asparagus.

Roasted Asparagus

Roast asparagus this way and it becomes positively juicy. You’d think one pound would be enough for four people, but in my experience the thick stalks — the best kind to use — are really irresistible. Err on the side of extravagance, and polish up any leftovers for lunch the next day.

2 pounds thick asparagus, woody ends snapped off

2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil

Salt and freshly ground pepper

1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves (optional)

Fresh lemon juice (optional)

1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Oil a baking sheet or a baking dish large enough to hold the asparagus in one layer. Place the asparagus in the dish, and toss with the olive oil, salt and pepper. Place in the oven and roast for 10 to 15 minutes, until the stalks begin to shrivel and color lightly.

2. Remove from the heat, toss with the thyme and season with lemon juice if desired.

Yield: Serves four to six

Advance preparation: If you want to serve this hot, there’s nothing to do in advance; however, you can serve it at room temperature. Don’t add the lemon juice until just before serving.

Martha Rose Shulman can be reached at martha-rose-shulman.com.