More Gravy? It’s Nice to Have Options

THOUGH there is pleasure in the ritual of Thanksgiving, its culinary choices are limited by the near absolute necessity of the turkey. Almost as inexorable is the gravy, perhaps the most hair-raising aspect of the meal, since it is made at the last minute and requires two burners on a crowded stove.

I have a few suggestions for making things easier, and for expanding the Thanksgiving repertory of sauces to dress the bird.

First of all, you can make the gravy the night before — or most of it, anyway. Start with a good strong stock, one you have made well in advance, preferably with roasted meat, a few aromatic vegetables and a bay leaf or two. Then make a roux, heating butter and flour together until they darken. Whisk the stock into the roux until it’s thick, then refrigerate.

Gravy made this way will hold perfectly. When you are ready to serve, just reheat it. If you like, add some of the scraped-up brown bits from the bottom of the roasting pan, or the giblets. Presto! Gravy without hassle.

Consider, also, a few alternatives. The sauces here are designed to add flavor (and moisture, which is almost always needed) to the bird in a way that is different from that of classic gravy.

Almost anything will complement turkey, but strongly flavored sauces may please only sophisticated palates, usually those of adults. So choose a sauce that will have broad appeal at your table.

Ketchup-based barbecue sauce is a crowd-pleaser. Bourbon and a bit of Worcestershire sauce cut through the typical sweetness of such concoctions. The whiskey also thins the sauce, making it less sticky and more gravylike. You can make this sauce as far in advance as you like, even the weekend before you plan to serve it; it will reheat well.

Nearly as flexible is parsley purée, among my favorite winter sauces and a fantastic addition to any table. You can probably make it a couple of days in advance, though ideally I’d prepare it on Thanksgiving day. It adds freshness and a bright green color that is hard to find elsewhere, and its flavor really livens things up.

This sauce is akin to pesto, but it is simpler and uses far less oil. A clove or two of garlic and perhaps a dried chili or a fresh jalapeño would add a nice flavor spike. Those ingredients are not included in the recipe here; again, I’m thinking of the young ones at the table.

Infinitely more sophisticated and slightly more complicated is an eggless béarnaise, essentially a beurre blanc with a strong vinegar component.

Unfortunately, it will occupy a burner and your last-minute attention for a good 20 minutes. (I’m serious here: this sauce will not hold.)

But it’s rich, it’s delicious, and for me, at least, a welcome break from the traditional.