AT MY TABLE; Cooking for One Discerning Diner: Yourself

COMPANY is a great excuse to cook, but it's not the only one. I love cooking myself something to eat: a little chopping and stirring at the end of the day can be the best way to unwind. The chicken noodle soup and potato and onion hash here are two of my favorite solitary indulgences; the pancakes pave the way for a meal that is a bit more special.

I cook the soup so often for myself that I now think nothing of making it when I have guests. But it is particularly satisfying when eaten alone.

It could scarcely be simpler: you need a portion of chicken, which you slice and heat in an oil-less pan, throw in some sake, if you have it, and soy sauce to give a little color and a lot of taste. Then add the pan-bronzed chicken pieces to a waiting saucepan of chicken broth flavored with ginger, chili and scallions and given toothsome texture by baby corn, spinach and sugar snaps. The noodles provide ballast and comfort.

I use sake regularly in cooking, both in marinades and for a quick, mellow deglaze, but there is no need to go out specially to buy some. You could use sherry instead or a slug of white wine. This soup takes only about 10 minutes to cook, and it will stand almost any number of variations. You can throw in rice (basmati cooks the fastest) in place of the noodles. Try an assortment of vegetables -- zucchini slices or batons are good, as are bok choi, broccoli florets, peas, bamboo shoots or bean sprouts.

If you fancy a vegetarian take on it, use vegetable broth in place of the chicken stock and tumble in a pile of store-bought fried tofu or solid chunks of it.

The potato and onion hash is hearty and no-nonsense. It takes longer than the chicken noodle soup to cook, but it is worth every minute. If we had imported this meal from Italy, we would refer to it as a glowing example of cucina povera. This is substantial comfort food at its simple best, and although I tend to cook it just for myself at home, I bet if you gave it to a tableful of people when they came round for supper, they would be weepingly grateful, fashionable dietary restrictions notwithstanding.