PAIRINGS; From Potato Chips to Fruit Dessert, Keeping It Simple for These Wines

MAKERS of sparkling wines that are not Champagne must distinguish their wines in some way. Many do it by price, which never hurts, and some do it by producing a wine that is friendly, soft on the brain and light as cool water. Its effervescence feels more like a nervous flutter to Champagne's prickly bubbles. And its fruit is there for the taking, rather than appearing as a ponderous suggestion on the finish.

This is what makes it an excellent wine for outdoor parties. You can drink it without getting sluggish, or worse, drunk. And it's cheap, so there can be plenty for all -- just the feeling guests want to have.

Sparkling wines like cava and prosecco are also splendid with food. If you aren't feeling ambitious, there would be nothing wrong with serving it with salted almonds or great potato chips. If you have a grill, why not throw on some skewers of shrimp? I would happily drink one of these sparkling wines with steamed clams or roasted oysters as well (although not raw -- and it's June, a non-r month, anyway).

Lobsters, grilled in the shell, would be a nice way to follow, or even chicken infused with rosemary.

And I would happily drink any of these wines through dessert. This dessert, a simple summer pudding with raspberries, blackberries and nectarines mingling with brioche, would be just the thing with prosecco. Sweet fruits, interrupted by a buttery, yeasty bread -- flavors much like those in the wine.

SUMMER PUDDING

Time: 30 minutes plus 8 hours' chilling

4 small ripe nectarines, pitted and sliced

1/2 cup sugar, more as needed

3 cups raspberries

2 cups blackberries

6 3/8-inch-thick slices brioche, lightly toasted

2/3 cup crème fraîche

1/2 cup mascarpone

1 tablespoon wildflower honey.

1. In a medium saucepan, stir together nectarines, sugar and 1/3 cup water. Bring to a boil and cook for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Fold in raspberries and blackberries and cook until juices are thickened, at least three minutes. Taste and add more sugar if necessary. Pour into a large bowl and let cool.

2. Line an 8 1/2-by-4 1/2-inch loaf pan with plastic wrap. When fruit is cool, cover base of pan with layer of brioche, cutting it to fit. Spoon 1/3 of the fruit on top. Cover with layer of brioche. Repeat, ending with fruit. Lay a piece of plastic wrap on top, then another loaf pan containing 2 to 3 pounds of weights (soup cans work well). Chill overnight.

3. When ready to serve, whisk together the crème fraîche, mascarpone and honey. Spoon into a serving bowl to be passed at the table. Remove weights, pan and top layer of plastic wrap from pudding. Unmold onto a serving plate with a lip so juices do not spill. Slice and serve.

Yield: 6 servings.