Grilled Steaks (Not the Kind You'd Think)

FISH steaks on the grill have become almost as much of a summer tradition as hamburgers. Swordfish, salmon and tuna are especially popular because they cook without sticking and take very well to the summer flavors of basil and thyme, tomato and sweet corn.

It is important not to overcook the steaks, or they will dry out. They retain enough heat to keep cooking after they are taken off the grill, so it is better to remove them just before they have reached the desired doneness. To eliminate strong, fishy flavors, tuna, swordfish, shark and marlin may be soaked in milk for a couple of hours before being cooked, a technique the French use for calf's liver.

I serve grilled sliced potatoes with these dishes. The potatoes must be steamed before they are put on the grill, or they will stick to it.

Peppered Tuna With Portobello Mushrooms

Total time: 30 minutes

1large or 2 small tuna steaks, about 1 1/2 pounds total

4tablespoons olive oil

2teaspoons cracked black pepper

Coarse sea salt to taste

2portobello mushrooms, quartered and sliced

1clove garlic, minced

1 1/2pounds fava beans, skinned and shelled

2tablespoons fresh thyme leaves

Lemon quarters