FOOD;Summer Bounty of Fruit Yields Cobblers and Crisps

HOME-STYLE fruit desserts, notably cobblers and crisps, are riding a wave of popularity. And no wonder. They are easier than pie. Fresh fruit judiciously sweetened is given just a topping of biscuit, streusel or batter.

Now is the prefect time for them, with summer's bounty of apricots, nectarines, peaches, plums, cherries and berries filling the market. A dollop of whipped cream or a scoop of ice cream on the finished product is always a welcome embellishment.

Cherry-Berry Cobbler Total time: 1 hour plus cooling

4 1/2tablespoons unsalted butter 2cups pitted, halved fresh cherries (about 1 pound) 1cup blueberries 1 1/2cups raspberries 1/2cup plus 3 tablespoons sugar 1tablespoon fresh lemon juice 1tablespoon quick-cooking tapioca 1cup all-purpose flour 2teaspoons baking powder Pinch of salt 1extra-large egg 1/3cup buttermilk Whipped cream.

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Butter four individual 8- to 10-ounce ramekins with half a tablespoon of butter. Line the bottom of the oven with foil to catch drips.

2. Combine the cherries, blueberries and raspberries in a saucepan. Stir in the half cup of sugar, bring to a simmer and cook a few minutes, just until the fruit softens and gets juicy. Remove from heat and fold in the lemon juice and tapioca.

3. Put fruit in baking dishes, filling them no more than two-thirds full.

4. Mix the flour, baking powder, two tablespoons of the granulated sugar and salt together. Cut in the remaining butter until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Beat the egg and buttermilk together, then stir into the flour mixture to form a thick batter. Drop a large blob of the batter on top of each dish of fruit. The fruit does not have to be covered completely. Sprinkle with the remaining granulated sugar.