PLAIN AND SIMPLE; A Quick, Hearty Soup

THE quintessential cold-winter supper is soup, salad and bread. But a hearty soup brings to mind a daylong project, which does not fit in with the 1990's penchant for quick and easy solutions.

But red lentil soup can be prepared in less than half an hour, because red lentils cook in about 10 minutes. It doesn't take a day to coax the full flavor out of the vegetables that play such an important role in this soup, which, to tell the truth, is so thick it is more like a lentil stew.

The greatest satisfaction in the preparation of this meal is to see the results so quickly. And for those without huge appetites, there should be enough left over for lunch the next day. Red Lentil Soup 1 cup red lentils 1 bay leaf 1 clove garlic 8 ounces whole onion or 7 ounces ready-cut chopped onion (1 2/3 cups) 2 teaspoons olive oil 4 ounces peeled carrots or 4 ounces ready-cut chopped carrots (1 1/3 cups) 2 ribs celery or 4 ounces ready-cut celery ( 3/4 cup) 1 tablespoon fresh rosemary or 1 teaspoon dried 1/4 teaspoon hot pepper flakes 1 cup no-salt-added canned chopped tomatoes 1 tablespoon distilled white vinegar 1 ounce Parmigiano Reggiano (about 6 tablespoons coarsely grated) 2 slices crusty Italian or French bread 1/4 teaspoon salt Freshly ground pepper to taste.

1. Combine lentils and bay leaf with 5 cups water, and bring to a boil, partly covered. Cook lentils at a simmer until soft, 10 to 12 minutes; watch carefully so that they do not boil over.

2. With food processor running, put garlic through feed tube to mince.

3. Chop whole onion by pulsing in food processor.

4. In a nonstick skillet, heat oil until it is very hot. Add onion and garlic, and reduce heat to medium-high. Saute until onion begins to brown and soften.