FOOD; SPARE NO EXPENSE, AND ADD THE SAFFRON

SOME friends who returned from Spain recently brought me a large packet of saffron as a present. I was extremely pleased, not just because it is the world's most expensive spice, but because I love it so much in rice dishes and with seafood.

Most of the world's saffron comes from Spain. It is made from the dried stigma of the purple crocus flower and has a penetrating aroma and pungent taste. The reason it is so expensive is that it is cultivated by hand. The orange and brick threads look like pipe tobacco and when they are added to a dish it takes on a golden hue. But although saffron costs a lot (around $6 for a gram) a little goes a long way - don't, in fact, think that more will improve a dish. If you use too much it will overpower the taste of the food.

Saffron takes particularly well to seafood. The stew recipe given below consists of a mixture of mussels, shrimp and scallops. You could, if you chose, also use white-fleshed fish such as haddock or sole, and crabmeat or a lobster, cut into pieces and added to the pot just long enough to heat through without overcooking. The stew is served with boiled potatoes and rouille, a garlic mayonnaise made with pureed red pepper, which turns it a beautiful orange-red. The mayonnaise, like butter, is good spread on the potatoes.

Saffron also adds another dimension to the delicate taste of bay scallops. They are superb sauteed and served in a white wine and yellow pepper sauce on capellini, thin noodles. (You won't need cheese for this dish.) Follow it with a green salad.

Rice is often flavored with saffron. To go with broiled fish, I like a risotto flavored with saffron, jalapeno pepper and chives, simmered in white wine and stock. This can also be served with chicken. Seafood Stew With Saffron and Rouille 1 red pepper 1/4 cup bread crumbs 2 egg yolks 3 garlic cloves, peeled and any green part removed Approximately 1 cup olive oil Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper to taste For the stew: 1 pound white potatoes 3 leeks, sliced 1 cup dry white wine 1/4 teaspoon saffron threads 1 tablespoon butter 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 clove garlic, minced 1 cup canned Italian tomatoes 1/2 teaspoon thyme 2 pound bag mussels 1/4 pound medium shrimp, unpeeled 1/2 pound bay scallops, or sea scallops halved.

1. Make the rouille. Preheat broiler. Cut the pepper into thick strips and place them face down on foil paper on a broiling rack. Broil until the skins are charred. Place in a closed paper bag for a few minutes, then peel off the skin.