RETAILERS CAUTIOUS IN ORDERING APPAREL

Sakowitz Inc., the major fashion retailer in Houston, had a ''just passable'' Christmas. Because of this, and because of the tight economy, the retail chain will gear its spring apparel ordering strictly to last year's dollar level rather than increase it, as the company normally does each season.

''We will place smaller initial orders,'' said Robert T. Sakowitz, chairman, ''and shoot for greater inventory turnover so we can have fresh merchandise and the flexibility to meet the price sharpshooters. We have learned that people will only buy when they have a real need or desire or both.''

Sakowitz appears to be typical, according to telephone interviews with retailers of women's and men's apparel. Facing lingering economic uncertainty and expected heavy price discounting, retailers are ordering spring clothing sparingly, mostly at the same rate as last year, despite the higher wholesale costs. Many also are holding back a larger percentage of their normal purchases than in 1982 in order to test consumer sentiments before committing themselves for the entire season. Prospects Not Bright

The retailing outlook for 1983 is not particularly encouraging. The first half is cloudy, most sources say, and even the second half has a hazy aura. But some 50,000 retail executives, seeking ways to offset the bleak outlook, will be converging on New York this week and the next two weeks, first to attend the four-day convention of the National Retail Merchants Association, which started yesterday at the New York Hilton Hotel and Sheraton Centre, and then to attend merchandising clinics and visit showrooms.

James R. Williams, president of the national merchants' group, agrees that the outlook is ''very uncertain.'' But he said many retailers already have weathered a tough year by carving out individual strategies so that ''when the expected recovery comes, they will be well-positioned to take advantage of it.'' For example, he noted, retailers have tried to tighten expenses and balance their inventories to better capitalize on the opportunities.

Like other retailers, Sakowitz will be increasing orders of its outstanding 1982 sellers while cutting back slower-moving items. Jump suits for juniors, retailing at $44 to $82, and ''dressy'' tailored suits for women at $150 to $1,000 are being given a bigger order, said Mr. Sakowitz. But medium-priced dresses, $140 to $100, are being cut back because this market has eroded, he said, and fewer threepiece suits for men will be bought. ''The vest adds at least another $50,'' he said, ''and dropping it will allow us to zero in at $200 to $250 instead of $300.'' Optimistic About Autumn