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Cooking

Skirt Steak, Long Sunday

Under a drizzle of minted, parsleyed dressing punched up with capers and salted with feta, skirt steak with salsa verde is one of summer’s great feeds.

ImageA light blue platter holds sliced seared skirt steak and long leaves of romaine, which have been topped with crumbled cheese and salsa verde. More salsa verde is in a small black bowl nearby.
Lidey Heuck’s skirt steak with salsa verde salad.Credit...Andrew Purcell for The New York Times. Food Stylist: Barrett Washburne.

Good morning. There’s a famous New York City dream where you discover an extra room in your apartment and it changes your life, at least until you get used to having the space. I experienced a version of that in my waking life recently. I arose early, showered, got dressed and made to head off to work. My wife stirred in bed and asked what I was doing. Going to work, I told her. She said, “It’s Sunday.”

What? The whole day was a gift after that: a drive to De Hot Pot for breakfast doubles; another to Lioni’s for heroes to eat in the shade; one more to the beach for an afternoon hang.

What to make for dinner on such a charmed and unexpected day? Skirt steak with salsa verde salad (above), please, the meat grilled rare and the hearts of romaine just singed at the edges. Under a drizzle of minted, parsleyed dressing punched up with capers and salted with feta, it’s one of summer’s great feeds, especially on an evening you didn’t expect to have free. Join me!


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With Sunday sorted, you can turn to the rest of the week. …

I like my recipe for bulgogi-style tofu because it isn’t a recipe so much as a prompt, a rough guide to putting together a dinner of big-flavored, crisp tofu nuggets to wrap in lettuce with kimchi, rice and a dipping sauce you’ll figure out on the fly: ssamjang, sherry vinegar, gochujang and a little neutral oil. You’ll see!


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