July 1, 2024 · 1:41 am

Red Burgundy Wines of Maison Louis Latour

Here is the second part of my notes on the tasting I attended featuring the wines of Maison Louis Latour.  The theme was Summer in Burgundy and the introduction of the 2022 vintage.

I spoke to Eléanore Latour, the Vice President about the 2022 vintage in Burgundy. She said both the whites and the reds hold a pleasant freshness as the grapes benefited from the right degree of ripeness. The well structured whites reached the perfect balance between acidity and concentration. The reds reveal fruity and spicy notes with silky tannins and the finish is elegant.  The wines are well balanced, fruity, concentrated and will age nicely. The vineyards held up remarkably well against the  summer heat, which contributed to the juiciness of the grapes without drying them. This vintage will be remembered as one of the best.

I also spoke with Florent Latour the CEO of Maison Louis Latour about the wines and Burgundy in general.

On average the vines are 35 years old and 2% of the vines are renewed every year. They safeguard traditional practices such as the use of horses for ploughing. No insecticides, weed killer, or chemical fertilizer are used.

The result of a long history, Burgundy and its wines are known worldwide. Pinot Noir is a native grape variety of the area. Bourgogne Pinot Noir is the regional appellation whose wines can come from any part of Burgundy.Last week, I wrote about the white wines of Maison Louis Latour.  Here is my my impression of the reds.  All of the red wines are 100% Pinot Noir.

Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2022 Region Bourgogne.  This wine exhibits the characteristics of the great Burgundy reds.  The average age of the vines is 25 years and the soil is clay and limestone. Grapes are hand picked. Traditional fermentation in open vats. Aging is for 10 to 12 months in stainless steel vats. The wine has hints of cherry, spice, licorice and red currants. The wine should be drunk within 5 years but could last longer. $25

Region: Côte Beaune

Marsannay 2020. Marsannay is the village which marks the northern gateway to the Côte d’Or when leaving Dijon, the capital of Burgundy, and home to the Ducs de Bourgogne. This village marks the beginning of the Route des Grands Crus which follows the N6 highway through the Côte d’Or. Wines from Marsannay are generally lively and robust; characteristics that come from the rich iron soil. Marsannay received its Appellation Contrôlée in 1987 in recognition of its consistently high quality wine. The average age of the vines is 10 years and the soil is clay and limestone. Grapes are hand picked. Traditional fermentation in open vats with complete malolactic fermentation. Aging is in stainless steel vats for 10 to 12 months. The wine has hints of blueberries, cherries, strawberries and a touch of spice. This wine is approachable now and I liked it as soon as I tasted it. However it will get even better in a few more years. $42

Aloxe-Corton 1er Cru Domaine Latour 2021.  Aloxe-Corton has been the home of the Latour family and the heart of Domaine Louis Latour for centuries. The village of Aloxe-Corton is located in the north of Côte de Beaune on a stony hillside at the foot of the hill of Corton.  The name of the climat Corton was added to the village name Aloxe in 1862. The vineyards of Domaine Louis Latour surround this famous village and yield a classic Aloxe-Corton. The average age of the vines is 30 years and the soil is limestone, alluvial sand and gravel. The grapes are hand harvested. Traditional fermentation takes place in open vats. Aging is in oak barrels 15% new for 10 to 12 months. Louis Latour cooperage, French oak, medium toasted. The wine has hints of cherry, cassis, licorice, spice and a touch of blueberries. $75. It will last but it is drinking very well right now.

Beaune 1er Cru “Vignes Franches” 2020.  Historically the owners of this area did not have to pay tax on the land, hence the name “Vignes Franches” meaning free vines. The Beaune Premier Cru “Vignes Franches” parcel, an important part of Domaine Louis Latour, is found mid-slope. The clay soils are scattered with small pebbles which allows for easy drainage of water. It has the same opulence as in neighboring Pommard, as well as an extremely pleasant fruit-forwardness even when young. It is one of the best Premier Cru vineyards of Beaune, producing a wine that is capable of aging to perfection for a considerable period of time. Average age of the vines is 35 years and the soil is clay and limestone. Fermentation in traditional open vats with complete malolactic fermentation. Aging in oak barrels 25% new. Louis Latour cooperage, French oak, medium toast. The wine has hints of black cherry, rhubarb, currants, with  a touch of rosemary and a note of violets.  This is a structured wine that will age.

Pommard 1er Cru “Epnots” 2018.   The village of Pommard is comfortably sandwiched between the town of Beaune and the village of Volnay. In contrast to the wines of its close neighbors, those of Pommard tend to be fuller, more tannic and expansive in the mouth, similar to those of the Côte de Nuits. This area was named “Epenots”, coming from “épine” (thorn or prickle), as a result of the natural vegetation of the area which was bush-like and thorny. The “Epenots” is solid and firm in its youth and needs time to mature and mellow out before revealing its full glory. The average age of the wines is 30 years and the soil is clay and limestone. Traditional fermentation in open tanks. Aging in oak barrels, 35% new for 10 to 12 months. Louis Latour cooperage, French oak, medium toast. The wine has hints of blackberry, plum, cherry, coffee, spice. This is a very impressive wine and will age for 10 years and more. $142

Château Corton Gracey Grand Cru 2019.  “Grancey” was the name of the last owners of the chateau situated on the road of Corton, before the Latour family bought it in 1891. This wine is unique and exclusive. It is a blend of five areas of Domaine Latour Corton Grand Cru: Bressandes, Perrières, Grèves, Clos du Roi and Chaumes, the proportions of which vary depending on the vintage. The average age of the vines is over 40 years. After aging individually, only the best barrels are assembled to create the Château Corton Grancey. It is a wine that is produced only if the grapes are of a perfect maturity.  Vintages judged inferior are systematically declassified. The average age of the vines is 40 years and the soil is marl and limestone. Hand harvested. Traditional fermentation in open vats. Aging in oak barrels 35 %new for 10 t0 12 months. Louis Latour cooperage, French oak, medium toast. The wine has hints of cherry, strawberry red currants, subtly spiced with a touch of jasmine. The wine will age for another 10 to 15 years or more. It is an outstanding red Burgundy and I am very happy I was able to taste it. $190

Note: In 1997, Maison Louis Latour celebrated its bicentennial and was admitted to the Henokiens Club, select circle of companies that have remained in founding family ownership for at least 200 years and still bear the name of their founder.

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June 27, 2024 · 1:41 am

Tasting the White Wines of Maison Louis Latour

Maison Louis Latour is a wine company with a very long history.  Founded in 1797, the owners have made it a point of honor to remain independent and family owned. The current head of the company is Florent Latour, Chief Executive Officer.

In keeping with tradition Mr. Latour prepares the next generation to take over.

Eléonore Latour started her training as the 12 generation during the  2023 harvest under the guidance of her uncle Florent.  She is now the Vice President. I discussed the 2022 vintage with Eléonore but this will have to wait until Part II “The Red Wines.”

Domaine Louis Latour covers 48 hectare of vineyards from the red Grand Cru of Chambertin and Romané-Saint Vivant in the Côte de Nuits to the white Grand Cru of Croton-Charlemagne and Chevalier-Montrachet in the Côte de Beaune. Today Louis Latour’s vineyards represent the largest holdings of Grand Cru vineyards in Burgundy.

At the tasting, it was mentioned that the company produces its own oak barrels in their cooperage.  Each one is a piece of fine craftsmanship, made from high quality French oak. The staves are seasoned slowly in the open air exposed to the elements over 36 months.

The White Wines

Pernan-Vergelesses 1er cru “En Caradeux” 2022 made from 100% Chardonnay. The village of Pernand-Vergelesses is located just 3km from Aloxe-Corton, and of all the villages that the Grand Cru hill of Corton looks over, this is the most picturesque. The parcel “En Caradeux,” located mid-slope and exposed to the East, faces the hill of Corton. These vines are worked traditionally by the winemakers of Domaine Louis Latour. The soil is stony and the basement is composed of marl and flint limestone which gives a typical particularity of this terroir. Soil is clay and limestone and the average age of the vines is 25 years.  Grapes are hand picked. Complete malolactic fermentation takes place in traditional oak barrels. The wine is aged 8 to 10 months in oak barrels 25% new. Barrels are from Louis Latour cooperage, French oak, medium roasted. Hints of acacia, almonds, hint of smoke, silky texture, citrus fruit and a hint of apple. $67

Meursault 2022 made from 100% Chardonnay.  Situated just south of Volnay and Pommard in the Côte de Beaune, Meursault is the most extensive southerly white wine commune of the Côte-d’Or. The perfect southeastern exposure and the stony, marl soil contribute greatly to the remarkable finesse of which the wines of Meursault are capable. Typical Meursault tend to be very full, mellow wines and mature somewhat sooner than the wines from the neighboring communes of Puligny and Chassagne. Soil is marl and limestone and the average age of the vines is 25 years. Hand harvested. There is complete malolactic fermentation in traditional oak barrels and the wine is aged 8 to 10 months in oak barrels of which 15% are new.  The wine has hints of yellow peach, ripe citrus fruit  toasted almond with a touch of spice. $97

Mâcon-Lugny “Les Genièvres” 2021 made from 100% Chardonnay. The village of Lugny is located high up in the south of the Mâcon region. It has a great reputation for its white wines, which has made Mâcon famous. It is well known that the village of Lugny, with its limestone soils and warm climate, produces the most coveted white wines of the region. The vineyard of “Les Genièvres” is one of the best. Maison Louis Latour selects the best grapes of this village, which thanks to its terroir, was the only village planted with Chardonnay 30 years ago. The average age of the vines is 30 years and the soil is clay and limestone. Harvest is mechanical. Traditional fermentation in temperature controlled stainless steel vats with complete malolactic fermentation. Aging is for 8 to 10 months in stainless steel vats. The wine has hints of honeysuckle, citrus, apples a hint of pineapple and nutty notes. It is a wine to be drunk young. $23

Pouilly-Fuissè 2020  made from 100% Chardonnay.  Pouilly-Fuissé is the name of a village in the Mâconnais producing highly distinctive Chardonnay wine. The vineyards producing this wine are part of a breathtaking landscape where the limestone and heavy clay soils combine to create a unique terroir. The vines are over 30 years old and the soil is limestone and heavy clay. Harvest is manual. Fermentation is in temperature controlled stainless steel tanks with complete malolactic fermentation. The wine is aged for 8 to 10 months in stainless steel vats. The wine has hints of yellow fruit, pear  peach, honeysuckle and apricot. Should be drunk within the next few years. $36

Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru “Sous Le Puits” 2020 made from 100% Chardonnay. Home of some of the world’s most extraordinary Chardonnays including the famous Montrachet, Puligny-Montrachet is the geographical middleman of the white wine villages, bordered by Meursault to the north and by Chassagne-Montrachet to the south. The vineyard of Puligny-Montrachet “Sous les Puits” has a southeasterly exposure and is situated at the top of the hill of Blagny, just above “La Garenne,” near a spring, hence the name of “Sous le Puits” (Under the Well). The average age of the vines is 35 years and the soil is clay and limestone. Grapes are picked by hand. Traditional fermentation in oak barrels with complete malolactic fermentation. The wine is aged for 8 to 10 months in oak barrels of which 50% are new. Louis Latour cooperage, French Oak medium toasted. The wine has hints of citrus, pear, apple, butterscotch, with a touch of honey and a subtle and long finish.  This wine will age for ten years of more. It is a very impressive wine. $135

Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru 2018 made from 100% Chardonnay. After the ravages of the phylloxera epidemic at the end of the 19th century, the Latour family took the then unusual decision to tear up the dead Aligoté and Pinot Noir vines, and replace them with Chardonnay. This decision lead them to create one of Burgundy’s most celebrated white whites.
Today the Latour family owns 10.5 hectares which makes them the biggest owner in the appellation. The Latour’s Corton-Charlemagne vineyards are located on a prime section of the Corton hillside where the southeasterly aspect ensures maximum exposure to the sun. The fruit is harvested as late as possible to guarantee maximum ripeness. The soil is lime stone and the average age of the vines is 30 years. The grapes are handpicked as late as possible for maximum ripeness. Traditional fermentation is oak barrels with complete malolactic fermentation. The wine is aged for 8 to 10 months in 100% new oak barrels. Louis Latour cooperage, French oak, medium toasted. 2018 was an excellent vintage for these white Burgundy wines. This is a complex and full bodied wine with hints of honeysuckle, apples, mangoes, white peaches, a note of banana and a touch of hazelnuts. It has a very long finish and a wonderful aftertaste. This is an exceptional wine and was rated very highly by everyone. This wine can age but is drinking very nicely now. $229

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June 20, 2024 · 1:38 am

Prosciutto di Carpegna DPO Comes to New York City

Prosciutto ham is made in practically every region of Italy, and some of the best comes from the Marche Region in central Italy.  Known as Prosciutto di Carpegna PDO, this sweet, tender ham has been produced in the town of Carpegna since the 1400’s.

Prosciutto di Carpegna PDO gets its unique flavor and texture from the curing methods used and the climactic conditions in the area where it is produced, a valley where the Adriatic Sea breezes and the mountain air of the Apennines meet.  (PDO stands for Protected Designation of Origin, meaning that the ham is produced in a specified location and adheres to established production rules.)

Recently, I had the opportunity to enjoy Prosciutto di Carpegna PDO at a dinner at Manhatta Restaurant in New York.  We tasted the prosciutto plain and in several interesting recipes designed to highlight its special qualities.

The ambassadors for Prosciutto di Carpegna PDO who spoke at the event were Kimberley Parrales and Matthew Guglielmelli.

To start, we had Arancini stuffed with Prosciutto di Carpegna PDO, crisp little rice balls stuffed with the prosciutto and then deep fried.

I also tasted Focaccia with Tomato and Prosciutto di Carpegna.

The next course was a salad of roasted maitake mushrooms and Prosciutto di Carpegna PDO on Rosette Lettuce with Whipped Ricotta, Crispy Quinoa and Meyer Lemon Vinaigrette.

Our main course was Halibut wrapped in Prosciutto di Carpegna PDO served with White Turnips, Pimento Oil and Colatura,

I enjoyed the tasting, but in my opinion the best way to eat Prosciutto di Carpegna PDO and appreciate its unique qualities is with some good bread and a glass or two of chilled spumante or Italian white wine.

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June 17, 2024 · 1:33 am

6 Wines for 6 Dishes

Michele and I enjoy trying new wine and food combinations.  Here are six wines that Michele paired with six different dishes and they all worked very well.

FIOL Prosecco DOC Rosé 2021 (Veneto, Treviso) made from 85% Glera and 15% Pinot Noir. The grapes are carefully handpicked during late summer or early fall with the perfect balance of  sugar and acidity. They are then gently pressed and the extracted grape juice undergoes its first fermentation in stainless steel tanks.  Yeasts convert the natural sugars into alcohol producing a still wine.  The still wine is transferred to pressurized stainless steel tanks along with a dose of yeast and sugar. As fermentation occurs in sealed tanks, carbon dioxide is trapped, creating the delightful bubbles. This second fermentation which gives the wine its effervescence takes place using the Charmat method, also know as the tank method. After the second fermentation the wine is left to settle in the tanks for a few months allowing the flavors to blend and the bubbles to fully develop.  It is then bottled and released for sale.

This is an elegant Prosecco with hints of raspberry, wild strawberry, citrus fruit, apple and pear with a touch of lemon and a note of wild flowers. $22

Note:  FIOL  is a term of endearment for a young man from the Old Venetian Republic language from the 1400’s.

Antipasto:  Fresh salame with Neapolitan almond taralli and olives.

Principe G 2020 dei Principi Spadafora (Sicily) Terre Sicilia Bianco IGP. Spadafora Made from 53% Grillo and 47% Cataratto. The vineyard is at 350 meters and the exposure is west. The soil is sandy, clay and the training system is simple guyot espalier. There are 5,000 vines per hectare. Harvest is in mid September.  Spontaneous fermentation on the pied de cuve of the grapes without sulfur dioxide at a controlled temperature in cement vats. The wine is aged for 12 months in vats and 4 months in bottle before release. Aromatic and fruity wine with hints of citrus fruit, a touch a lime and hint of lemon. It can age for a few years. The winery is Biodynamic, $15

Sardine Beccafico:  Sicilian-style sardines stuffed with breadcrumbs, pine nuts and raisins.

Etna Bianco di Sei  2021 Palmento Constanzo (Sicily) made from 90% Carricante and 10% Catarratto. The exposure is north/east and the soil is volcanic sand and rocks. Bush training with chestnut poles and the vines are up to 100 years old. There are 7,000 vines per hectare. Manual harvest the last week os September. There is a soft pressing of the grapes and fermentation is in stainless steel tanks with indigenous yeasts. The wine is aged for 10 months in stainless steel tanks in contact with the lees and 8 months in bottle before release. This is an intense and elegant wine with hints of citrus fruit, aromatic fruit, white flowers with hint of sage and a note of mint. $45

Note: “Bianco di Sei” refers to “six”, which is the top designation for volcanic activity, and is the top tier white wine from this estate.   The winery is at the foot of the Muntagna, the name the locals fondly use to refer to Etna. Eighteen hectares are divided into several contradas and hills. The small parcels are vinified separately because each plot is characterized by the lava flow that sedimented over time.

Pasta con le Sarde — Pasta with sardines, fennel, raisins and pine nuts, baked in a small timbale.

Barbera D’Alba Superiore 2021 Tenuta Cucco (Piedmont) made from 100 % Barbara from the 1.7  Roddi “Elia”vineyard which is 200/250 meters with a south-southeast exposure. There are 4,200 plants per hectare. The soil is chalky/clay and the training system is guyot. Harvest takes place the second week of September. The freshly harvested grapes are destemmed, pressed, and placed in vats at a temperature of 18 °C for 3 days to bring out their varietal aromas. Fermentation takes place at a temperature of 26 °C, followed by a 6/8-day period of maceration and then the drawing-off. Once the malolactic fermentation took place, the wine ages for 12 months in 25 HL barrels. The wine has hints of red roses, raspberries, black cherries, blackberries and a hint of red plum. $18

Note: In the local dialect “cucco” indicates the hilltop location of the oldest part of the vineyard, inside the Cru Cerrati.

Roasted chicken with potatoes

Vino Nobile Di Montepulciano 2019 Tenuta Calimaia -Frescobaldi (Tuscany) . Made from 90% Sangiovese (know locally as Prugnolo Gentile) and 10% complementary red grape varieties.  Calimaia is found in the gentle hills between the Val di Chiana and the Val d’Orcia. Located around the winery’s hill, the vineyards sit at an altitude of 300 meters above sea level and are differentiated by exposure and soil type of vineyards thus helping to bring out the best in each variety grown. There are 70 hectares of vineyards. Soil is sand-veined illite clay. Manual harvest. The grapes are vinified in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature (26 °C), and fermentation took place spontaneously. Maceration on the skins allowed for perfect extraction of the polyphenols, assisted by frequent pumping over in the initial stages of fermentation, délestage in the intermediate stage, and further pumping over in the final stage. The malolactic fermentation was completed in steel before winter. The wine matured in 50 hL oak barrels for 24 months. It then rested in the bottle for some months before release.

Aromatic and fruity wine with hints of citrus fruit, a touch a lime and hint of lemon. It can age for a few years. The winery is Biodymanic. The wine has hints of cherry, herbs, spice, and pepper, with a hint of chocolate and a note of licorice. $24

Pasta with meat and tomato sauce

Barolo Cerrati 2019 Tenuta Cucco (Piedmont) Made from 100% Nebbiolo from the Cerrati area in Serralunga d’Alba, the 4 hectare Vigna Cucco is at 260/395 meters. The exposure is south/southeast and the soil is shallow chalky/clayey. There are 4,000 plants per hectare and the training system is guyot. Harvest is in October. The freshly harvested grapes are destemmed, pressed and then left in small vats for 72 hours at a temperature of 10°C, for pre-fermentation steeping. In this way the characteristics of this vineyard are highlighted. This is followed by fermentation with gentle steeping at a temperature of 16°C. Drawing-off takes place when the product is fully dry, after an additional fermentation for 20-25 days on the skins. Then the malolactic bacteria transform the malic acid and the wine will be ready to be transferred for the ageing process. The wine remains for 12 months in small barrels of French oak and after that, it completes its ageing process in traditional barrels for a further 12 months, until it reaches its peak. It is then transferred to bottles, where it matures for at least 6 months before being sold.

The wine has hints of cherry, blackcurrant, blackberries and mushrooms.  It is a wine that will age. $73

Prosciutto Wrapped Braised Quail with spring vegetable stew.

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June 13, 2024 · 1:14 am

Celebrating 100 Years of Chianti Classico

This year the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico is celebrating its 100th Anniversary. I attended the Chianti Classico 100th Anniversary Grand Tasting which was held on April 29th in NYC. It was a tasting not only of the current vintages of Chianti Classico but also of older vintages.

Here is the official announcement from the Consorzio:

The royal decree of 7th March 1924 made possible the establishment of the Consorzi di Tutela, with the 33 founding fathers the first to seize the opportunity to protect and preserve Chianti Classico wine, its territory, landscape, and economy. On March 14 1924 it  was signed by the founding fathers.

It is the first wine Consortium founded in Europe and one whose purpose has always been to protect and promote one of the best-known Made in Italy wine products.

The Chianti Classico Wine Consorzio celebrated together with the city of Florence its first 100 years! A hundred years ago after its establishment in Radda in Chianti, the Chianti Classico Consorzio established its offices in the historic palazzo Uguccioni in Piazza della Signoria, in Florence. Today, in an exceptional occasion, the historic headquarters of the Consortium returns to its old clothes, to share with all the citizens what the Chianti Classic wine is today. Among stellar chefs, tasting… rock, theater, music, young producers.

 

The following are a just a few of the wines I tasted in NYC

Monsanto Chianti Classico “IL Poggio”  made from 95% Sangiovese and 5% Colorino and Canaiolo. The training system is guyot and spurred cordon. The wine is vinified in temperature controlled conical steel vats. Delestage and pumping over for about 20 to 22 days. The wine is aged in 500 liter oak barrels, partly new and partly secondhand for 18 to 20 months. The wine remains in the bottle for 2 years before release. The wine has hints of blackberries and blueberries with a hint of violets. Monsanto is located in the western-central area of the Chianti Classico region in the municipality of Barberino Tavarnelle.

I have a long history with Monsanto going back almost 40 years and the wonderful 1977 vintage. I visited the winery and met the owner, the legendary Fabrizio Bianchi, in 1983. Today the winery is in the hands of his daughter Laura Bianchi.

They were also showing a 1969 Monsanto Chianti Classico “IL Poggio”

Cecchi Chianti  Classico “Storia La Famiglia” 1981 Made from 90% Sangiovese, 5% Colorino and 5% Canaiolo. The vineyards are at 259 meters and the soil is middle dough, alkaline and stones. There are 5,000 plants per hectare and the training system is spurred cordon. There is traditional red wine fermentation at a controlled temperature. Fermentation and maceration for 18 days. The wine is aged in bottle for a minimum of 2 months.  This is a wine with hints of raspberries, strawberries, blueberries a touch of spice and a hint of pine.  Always one of my favorites.

Pouring the wine for both Monsanto and Cecchi was Giulia Cecchi, daughter of  Andrea Cecchi CEO of Cecchi. She was also pouring wine for her mother, Laura Bianchi of Monsanto.

Ricasoli  Chianti Classico Castello di Brolio Grand Selezione 2021 made from 100% Sangiovese.  Castello di Brolio is their flagship wine created from a meticulous selection of estate-grown grapes from the three most representative soils in Brolio: Macigno del Chianti (sandstone), Scaglia Toscana (Galestro), Monte Morello (Alberese). There are 6,600 vines per hectare and the training system is spurred cordon vines were planted 1994-2005. Harvest from  September 21 to 28.  Fermentation and maceration in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature of 24°C-27°C (75.2°-80.6°F) with 14-16 days of skin contact.  The wine ages for 22 months in tonneaux of 500hl of which 30% are new oak and 70% of second passage. They were also pouring wines from older vintages

Vecchie Terre Di Montefili Gran Selezione made from 100% Sangiovese from hillside vineyards at 500 meters. The soil is Alberese  and the training system is cordon and guyot. The 3 hectare vineyard was planted in the 1980’s. Hand harvested with selection in the vineyard. Spontaneous fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks. No added yeasts.  The wine ages for 22 months in 20 HL casks (botti). This is a structured and balanced fruity wine  with hints of red cherry, blackcurrants, ripe plum with a note of cinnamon and a touch of cloves. I visited the winery a few years ago and have spoken to one of the owners, Nicola Marzavilla about the wine and the winery.


Tenuta Perano (Frescobaldi) Chianti Classico 2021 made from Sangiovese and complementary varieties. Grapes are harvested by hand. Vinification is in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature. Then maceration on the skins with a controlled and careful pumping over. The different grapes were aged separately in wood, then further aging in bottle until the wine is ready for release. The wine has hints of red berries, cherries, plums, violets, floral notes and a touch of spice. $27

Chianti Classico Badia a Coltibuono 2021 made from 90% Sangiovese 5% Colorino and 5% Ciliegiolo. The vineyards are at 250/330 meters and the soil in clay loam and limestone rock. The training system is guyot and the wines are 6 to 30 years old. There are 5,000 to 7,300 vines per hectare. Indigenous yeast from grapes with a starter. Spontaneous malolactic fermentation takes place in stainless steel tanks. There is a light gelatin fining and a membrane filtration. The wine is aged in 2,000 to 2,500 liter French and Austrian oak casks for about 12 months. Then aged in bottle for about 3 months before release. The winery has been organic since 1995. The wine has hints strawberry and raspberry with good acidity, a note of violet and a touch of sunshine on the Tuscan pines. I have been drinking this Chianti Classico since I had lunch at the winery in 1983 and had the 1978 vintage.

Chianti Classico Banfi 2022 made from mostly Sangiovese and small amounts of Canaiolo Nero and Cabernet Sauvignon. The soil is calcareous and well structured. Fermentation takes place with traditional skin contact of 8 to 10 days. The wine is aged for a short time in large casks of French oak. Bottling takes place the summer after the harvest. The wine has hints of cherries, plums and violets with a note of leather.

San Felice Chianti Classico Riserva “IL Grigio” made from 100% Sangiovese from the San Felice Estate in Castelnuovo Beradenga (Siena).  Soil is medium textured. Predominantly calcareous marl breakdown of Alberese and Galestro limestone, with abundant gravel pebble mixture. Spur pruned cordon training system. Harvest is the second week of September to the first week of October. Vinification & maturation fermentation on the skins at 28–30° C for 18–20 days followed by malolactic fermentation in steel. 80% of the wine then matures for 24 months in 60 or 90 hl in Slavonian oak casks, and 20% in 225-liter French barriques, followed by a further 6 months or so in the bottle before release. The wine has hints of violets, red berry fruit, cherry, strawberry and a hint of plum.

Chianti Classico Tolaini Tolaini Vallenuova 2020 Cantelnuovo Berardenga made from 95% Sanviovese and 5% Canaiolo. The soil is silty clay, rich in limestone with a high percentage of stones. There are 7,350 plants per hectare planted in 2000. Grapes are first selected during harvest in the vineyard and then by an optical sorter when they arrive at the winery; they are destemmed and the whole berries are immediately placed in stainless steel tanks. Fermentation is temperature controlled, and the must is kept in contact with the skins for 20 days. The wine matures for 10 months in a mix of Tuscan, Slavonian, and Austrian oak casks. The wine has hints of black cherry, tobacco, a touch of licorice and a note of spice. This is a winery I discovered a few years ago and really liked their wines.

Chianti Classico 2021 Lilliano made from 90% Sangiovese, 5% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon.  After the quality-selected clusters are destemmed and pressed, the must is fermented and macerated in stainless steel for 18-20 days at a controlled temperature with programmed punch-downs and daily pumpovers. Maceration fermentation takes place in concrete and small stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature for 18-20 days depending on the vintage. The wine ages for about 12 to 14 months in large casks of French oak and partly in concrete. After maturation, the final blend is assembled, bottled and aged in glass for a minimum of 3 months. This is a wine with hints of red fruit, cherry, violets and a touch of cassis.

They were also showing  Chianti Classico Riserva 1998. I rediscovered this winery a few years ago thanks to a friend and have been a fan ever since.

Chianti Classico Antinori “Badia A Passignano” 2020 made from 100% Sangiovese. The production zone is Tavarnella Val di Pesa. The soil is rich in limestone rock with an average amount of clay and the vineyard is at 300 meters. Fermentation lasts for 10 days and the must is in contact with the skins for another 10-12 days. After racking, the various lots were aged for 14 months in Hungarian oak barrels and in French oak barrels. The wine remained in the bottle for another 12 months. The wine has aromas of ripe fruit, with hints of cherries, blood oranges, a note of lavender and a slight touch of vanilla. It has a nice finish and lasting aftertaste.

 

I have always been of the opinion that Chianti Classico wines can age.  Some of the oldest I tasted have been from Antinori. Thanks to a friend I was able to drink a 1943 Santa Christina which was a Chianti Classico back then.  The wine was over 60 years old at the time and it was wonderful.

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Filed under Cecchi, Chianti Classico, Chianti Classico Gran Selectione, Chianti Classico Gran Selezione, Monsanto, Montefili

May 31, 2024 · 5:13 am

Azienda Agricola Vallarom: Certified Organic Vegan

In March Federica Schir ([email protected]) invited Michele and I to a wine tasting in Rome of wine made by 4 producers that she represents.  The producer from the Vallarom Winery was not present but Federica told us about the wines.

The winery is located in the municipality of Avio, south of Trento, in the Italian wine-growing region of Trentino-Alto Adige.  It occupies a special place in Trentino,at a narrowing of the valley in the southern part of the Vallagarina, and north of Lake Garda. There are 7 hectares of vines.  The name Vallarom derives from an old place name.

Ezio Scienza and his wife Giuseppina took over the winery in 1998 after the death of his grandparents. Their son Riccardo has joined them in the business.

Since 2011, Vallarom has been certified as a producer of organic wines. They cultivate to produce an organic and authentic wine and only natural yeasts are used.

The family have always liked to experience new production techniques, both in the vineyards and in the cellar. At the same time they are committed to environmentally friendly viticulture.  Beginning in 1999, they abolished the use of chemical pesticides and decided not to use any chemical products for phytosanitary defense. From 2004, they only use copper and sulphur.  The winery is also Certified Organic Vegan.

The wines

Vò Millesimato made from 100% Chardonnay.  The soil is limestone from the Dolomites and there are 4,500 vines per hectare. The training system is simple  pergola Trentino. Grapes are harvested by hand and softly pressed. Fermentation in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature with 20% in barriques  Aging takes place on the lees for 30 months. It is disgorged without dosage.

Vallarom 72 Rosé de Saignée Vino Spumante Di Qualita’ Dosaggio Zero  made from 100% Pinot Nero.. Soil is limestone from the Dolomites There are 4,r00 vines per hectare. The training system is simple pergola.Grapes are harvested by hand and subjected to soft pressing. Maceration of the grapes for 18 hours before fermentation and then fermentation with indigenous yeast at a controlled temperature . The wine remains on the lees for 72 months  and the wine is disgorged without dosage. This is an elegant Metodo Classico Spumante with hints of red fruit strawberry and raspberry with a very pleasant after taste

Chardonnay made from 100% Chardonnay from vineyards in the province of Levine. The exposure is south, south/west at 200/230 meters.  There are 5,200 plants per hectare and the training system is simple pergola Trentino or pruned spur cordon. The soil is limestone from the Dolomites. Grapes are harvested by hand  the first week of September. After a soft pressing, the must is racked into barrels for the fermentation and an aging period that lasts 11 months. This is a full-bodied and fresh wine, with a fragrance of green apple and vanilla, hints of white flowers with a touch of dried fruits.

Syrah in Rosato Anfora made from 100% Syrah.  There are 6,500 grapes per hectare. The training system is espalier with guyot pruning. Grapes are harvested by hand and after a soft pressing, fermentation takes place with indigenous yeasts in Tava amphora with no temperature control. After aging for 8 months in the same amphora it is then put in bottle for 3 months before release.  Full-bodied and structured thanks to the variety, elegant, fresh, scent of black fruits and spices. Very savory.

Pinot Nero made from 100% Pinot Nero. The soil is limestone from the Dolomites and there are 4,500 vines per hectare. The training system is guyot and simple pergola Trentino. Grapes are hand harvested and carefully destemmed. Fermentation is in stainless steel tanks with no temperature control and the wine is in contact with the skins for 12/15 days. The wine is aged in used barriques for 12/14 months and 6 months in bottle before release.   It has hints of red  berries, cherry, spice, blackberry,  a touch of chocolate and a note of almonds in the finish. This is a wine that will age.

Fuflus made from Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Syrah. The soil is limestone from the Dolomites and there are 6,500 vines per hectare. The training system is guyot and simple pergola Trentino. Grapes are harvested by hand and carefully destemmed. Fermentation is in truncated cone barrels without temperature control with skin contact for 15/18 months. The wine is aged in barriques for about 18 months and in large barrels for 6 months and then 6 months in bottle before release. It has hints of green pepper, blackberry, cherry,  bell pepper, coffee and chocolate. The wine will age for a number of years.

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May 23, 2024 · 2:10 am

The Legacy of Mario Schiopetto

The wines of the legendary producer Mario Schiopetto have been a special favorite of mine since Michele and I visited Friuli in the 1980’s.  So I was very happy when I was invited to a tasting of the wines by their distributor, Nunzio Castaldo of Panebianco Wines.

The speaker was Alessandro Rotolo, representing the Rotolo Family who now manage the Mario Schiopetto legacy. The estate passed into the hands of the Rotolo family in April of 2014.

The Mario Schiopetto winery is located in Captiva del Friuli in the province of Gorizia. The DOC is Collio. They also have vineyards in the Colli Orientali in the Province of Udine.

Alessandro said it all began in 1965 when Mario produced his Tocai, the first modern white wine of Friuli, and brought international recognition to the region. In the 1970’s, he travelled across Europe with noted Italian wine and food writer, Luigi Veronelli, and even visited California with other prominent  Italian producers.

Ponca, the typical Friuli terrain composed mainly of clay and limestone, is the unique terroir that defines Schiopotto wines.  Alessandro said that all the wines are vinified and aged in stainless steel. Malolactic fermentation does not take place

Friulano, formerly known as Tocai,  is indigenous to Friuli. Alessandro said the name was changed from Tocai to Friulano (a much harder name to pronounce) after a long EU dispute with Hungary.  Today it is the most popular white wine in Friuli and if you ask for a glass of white wine they will give you Friulano.

The Wines:

Collio DOC Friulano 2021 Magnum made from 100% Tocai Friulano first produced in 1965.  The soil is mainly clay and limestone and the training system is guyot and double overturn. Manual harvest is the last week of August and the first week of September. Fermentation is for 10/12 days in steel tanks at a controlled temperature.There is an additional pied de cuvee at the start of fermentation. The wine is aged in steel tanks for 8 months and a minimum of 8 months in bottle before release. This is a complex wine with hints of pear, apricot, wildflowers,  a touch of grapefruit and a note of almond. Note:  This rare magnum came from Alessandro’s personal cellar. He asked that we taste the wine and then taste it again later to see how it evolved in the glass. $ 30

Collio Friulano 2018 Made from 100% Friulano (Tocai). This is a complex wine with hints of pear, apricot, citrus fruit and a hint of almonds and touch of flint.

Alessandro then spoke about Pinot Grigio.  The vines ares grown in medium marly soil and produce small bunches with round grey berries.  Like Pinot Bianco, Pinot Grigio  derives from the bud mutation of Pinot Noir.

All of the wines are made from 100% Pinot Grigio and are Collio DOC  The training system is guyot and the grapes are hand picked the second and third weeks of September. There is a soft pressing of the grapes and the a brief period of decantation in the total absence of sulphur dioxide. Fermentation is in stainless steel tanks at a controlled temperature for 10/12 days. The wine is aged in stainless steel tanks for 8 months and a minimum of 5 months in bottle before release.

Collio Pinot Grigio 2022.  Flavors of  banana, passion fruit, lemon, peaches, and citrus fruit $28.

Next we tasted the following older vintages of this wine.  As the wines got older, the flavors and aromas became much deeper and more pronounced with more honeysuckle and tropical fruits.  None of the wines showed any sign of age.  The 1999, a 25 year wineThe, was more than amazing.

Collio Pinot Grigio 2018 $28

Collio Pinot Grigio 2015 $49

Collio Pinot Grigio 1999. $?

After tasting the wines I was very happy to see that the Rotolo family have been true to the legacy of Mario Schiopetto.

Schiopetto also produces another line with the label which was first used by Mario Schiopetto back in 1965, known as Del Pompiere “to the fireman.” These wines were not included in the tasting.  The historic label was introduced with the 2019 vintage.  Mario’s family owned Osteria al Pompieri, and at one time, he was a fireman and truck driver and he used his fire truck to deliver his wines.

For more information on the wines and where to by them contact

Panebianco Wine. (212) 685-7560. 1140 Broadway NY, NY

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Filed under Mario Schiopetto, Pinot Grigio, Tocai

May 16, 2024 · 1:34 am

Three Wines with Dinner

Last week friends came over the dinner and I opened 3 bottles of wine that I had gotten as samples.  Our meal consisted of 3 courses.

Berlucchi ’61 Rosé Brut NV made from 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay from the best vineyards in the 19 municipal areas of Franciacorta. The harvest takes place from the middle ten days of August to the first 10 days of September. There is a gentle, gradual pressing of clusters with fractioning of the must; alcoholic fermentation in steel vats. A few hours’ maceration of the Pinot Noir on the skins (rosé maceration) to emphasize the aromas and hue of the grape assemblage. The assemblage of the cuvée is in the spring following harvest with the contribution of 5% of reserve wine consisting of the previous year’s cuvée aged in stainless steel for one year. Second fermentation takes place in the bottles and maturation sur lie for a minimum of 24 months followed by an additional 2 months after disgorgement. Residual sugar 6.5g/l. The wine has hints of citrus fruit, cherry, strawberry, brioche and a touch of spice. The “61 line is a tribute to the “birth of Franciacorta in 1961 and to the year Berlucchi produced the first method  classico sparkling wine.” $45

Note: In 1955, Guido Berlucchi, the holder of the noble Berlucchi name, called enologist Franco Ziliani to his home in Lombardy to consult with Ziliani on how to improve his unstable white wines. Ziliani suggested instead creating French-style sparkling wines, and thus the Berlucchi wine dynasty was born in 1961 with the release of the winery’s first bottles. Soon after, in 1967, Franciacorta became a recognized designation due to Berlucchi and Ziliani’s experimentation. Today the winery is run by Ziliani’s three children. 

The wine was a perfect combination with crackers topped with smoked salmon and creme fraiche.

Grillo Sicilian DOC 2022 Stemmai made from 100% Grillo. The grape is native to Sicily and is used for the production of Marsala. Grillo prefers sandy terrain that is sloped and gets a lot of sunlight. The  training system is espalier and there are 450 plants per 2.5 acres. Grillo is an average-to late varietal with maturity reached about the second week in September. The collection of the grapes, pressing, and destemming is totally covered in the air (a method of vinification called “reduction”). The natural settling and fermentation take place at a controlled temperature of 18 degrees for 10 days. Maturation on the lees takes 5 months in steel tanks. The wine has hints of tropical fruit, notes of mango and papaya with a touch of jasmine and white flowers. $13. Note: Sustainably farmed.

With this wine, we had pasta con le sarde, pasta with sardines, raisins and fennel.

Nero D’ Avola  Sicilia  DOC “Gazzerotta” 2021 Tenuta di Famiglia-Pellegrino 1880. Made from 100% Nero d’Avola from the Gazzerotta Estate, Mazara del Vallo, Province of Trapani. The soil is clayey rich in minerals and the vineyard is at 20 meters. The vineyard is subject to water stress and at risk of high maximum temperatures due to its distance from the water. Harvest starts in mid-September. There is a long maceration at a controlled temperature until alcoholic fermentation is completed. The wine is then aged at least for 24 months in steel tanks and barriques. This is a soft red wine with good structure.  It has hints of red fruit, violets, sweet spice, cinnamon and a note of chestnut honey.$15

Note: Gazzerotta is the name for the elegant black and white magpies that fly over the bare fields in autumn.

We enjoyed this wine with rack of lamb crusted with Sicilian pistachios.

Everyone appreciated the opportunity to taste these fine wines for the first time.

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Filed under Berlucchi, Grillo, Nero d'Avola, Sparkling wine, Spumante

May 13, 2024 · 1:27 am

Wine from the Island of Giglio

In March, thanks to Federica Schir ([email protected]), Michele and I visited Tenuta Casenuove in  Panzano in Chianti. There we met Alessandro Fonseca  the General Manager of the state and an agronomist.  He told us that the owner is Philippe Austruy, a French entrepreneur, art collector, and wine lover, who also owns prestigious wineries in France and Portugal.

At the end of the tasting of the wines of Tenuta Casenuove,  we saw a short film about another of Mr. Austruy’s wineries located on the island of Giglio, the pearl of the Tuscan archipelago. With the help of Alessandro, Mr. Austruy purchased a vineyard corner of uncontaminated land whose terraced rows are supported by ancient dry stone walls.  The vineyard is 1.2 hectares and it overlooks the sea.

From the beginning, the Tenuta Isola nel Giglio project focussed on Ansonica, a grape variety that has thrived in the terroir of this Mediterranean island over the centuries.  After watching the film, it was easy to  understand why Mr. Austruy was so fascinated by the beauty of the island.

According to tradition the grapes are harvested by hand from the Finoccio vineyard.  The workers carry the boxes of grapes on their shoulders through the holm oak woods to the access point closest to the road.

Careful monitoring of the temperature-controlled fermentation of the must with the pomace encourages the development of a tannic texture without excesses. The wine is refined in porcelain containers – a contemporary evolution of terracotta amphorae – and wooden barrels. A rest in the bottle follows the refinement to give this multifaceted wine time to best express its potential.

The Wine

IGT Toscana Bianco “Scoglio Nero” 2019 made from 100% Ansonica, Soil is granitic sands dating back to a million years ago. Mediterranean climate characterized by hot and very dry summers, very little rainfall especially during the growing season of the vine. Harvest takes place the first ten days of September.

The grapes, harvested rigorously by hand, are de-stemmed when delivered to the cellar, fermented without pressing and vinified in steel containers at a controlled temperature. The duration of maceration continues throughout the alcoholic fermentation phase and, depending on the degree of maturation, can also continue in the subsequent phase of aging on the lees. Part of the wine obtained is aged in second and third passage barriques, while the remaining part is aged in stoneware containers, to ensure the right degree of micro-oxygenation necessary for the evolution of the tannic matrix extracted during the maceration phase. Aging is for 30 months of which 18 is in the bottle. The wine was bottled on October 6 2020.  The wine is put on the market three years after the harvest after adequate rest in the bottle.

They produce only this one wine and only 800 bottles.

The name Scoglio Nero to a toponym that pays homage to the dark rock formation of the Island.

The wine has hints of ripe yellow peaches, medlar, helichrysum and chamomile, delicately tropical  fruit, notes of thyme and marjoram and a touch of hazelnut. It has a very pleasing aftertaste and a long finish.

I felt very privileged to taste this rare and special white wine that will age.

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Filed under Ansonaca, Tenuta Isola nel Giglio

May 6, 2024 · 1:56 am

Bill’s Blend

BILL’S BLEND is the name on the label of Bill Whiting’s new line of wines.

Bill is an old friend and though he has been in the wine business for many years, his dream of creating his own wines was only realized when he successfully bid on one ton of Red Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon grapes and a French/American oak barrel while he was attending the Washington Grape Growers Association annual fundraiser.   It was a life-changing experience.  Soon he was able to produce the first vintage of BILL’S BLEND which was released for family and close friends. The wine was a smashing success.

Anyone that knows wine or has been in the wine business knows Bill and his long association with wine. His family has been in the wine business since 1919. America is home but Italian blood flows through his veins.

His grandfather was born in Connecticut in 1895.  At a young age,”Pop” was sent to Italy and placed under the tutelage of his Aunt Teodolinda, who supervised the household staff for Pope Pius XI.  Teodolinda was passionate about hospitality and oversaw the cellar for the Pontiff. “Pop” mirrored her enthusiasm the two passed their knowledge to Bill’s mother Joan, who in turn motivated Bill and his brothers.

Bill’s Blend Rosè Red Mountain AVA 2022 made from 52% Malbec, 50%, Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Petit Verdot all from the Kiona “Heart of  the Hill” single vineyard in the Red Mountain AVA at 784 feet. The soil is 53% Warden silt loam, 45% Finley stony and fine sandy loam and 2% Scooteney silt loam. The training system is bi-lateral cordon. Harvest is from October 14 to November 1.  100% Saignée tank fermentation in stainless steel for 14 days. Only the free run juice which is the highest quality juice is used because it has no contact with the seeds (pips) and skins. The wine is then aged in stainless steel. No malolactic fermentation. The wine was bottled August 14, 2023. This is a Rosè that will age for a few years. $25

Note: All net proceeds for the 2022 Bill’s Blend Rosè were donated to five different  Maui charities to help them rebuild after what has been deemed one of the deadliest wildfires in U. S. history.

Bill’s Blend Red Red Mountain AVA 2020 made from 78% Cabernet Sauvignon Sauvignon, 12% Malbec and 10% Petit Verdot from Kiona “Heart of the Hill”(86%) and Thurtle (14%) vineyards.  Soil same as above as is the training  system. Harvest is from October 6th to 24th.  Each variety was hand sorted  and fermented separately.  The whole berries were destemmed and crushed and fermentation is for 14 days on the skins for 14 days. The wine is aged for 32 months in French oak of which 30% is new with a medium roast. The wine was bottled on August 14, 20023. The wine has hints of red plums, cassis, raspberry, black cherry, a hint of violets and a touch of cocoa. This wine will age for 10 to 15 years. $48

Note: Located on a southwest-facing slope in south central Washington, a three-and-a-half-hour drive from Seattle, Red Mountain is one the smallest, warmest and most sought-after wine growing area in Washington State (and the world).

The samples were delivered  by Bill in person

To find out where you can buy these wines, write to  [email protected].

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